madmike's build is starting

madmikeismad

madmikeismad

So mad
Joined
Dec 19, 2009
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Just picked up a 94 3500 reg cab 2wd.

Ok, so plans. This will be a high horsepower build. Drag only truck, 10sec goal. It's a 160 pump. Don't think I'm going for this overnight, it will be a while before I'm close, but for now, I want a plan in order.

Drivetrain:
First things first, PO doesn't know if KDP has been done yet. So I'm going to get a cam and some tappets and push rods, and KDP.
Trans will be built ASAP.
Biggest turbo I can find used for cheap (but not f'd), probably here on the classified. Just running a big single unless someone can justify for me why I should do compounds.
(will probably get everything here on classifieds actually)
Injectors from Lee, at least 5x.018, maybe bigger depending on how big a turbo I can steal.
Someday (probably income tax time) send pump to columbus or northeast and get maxxed out with 5k gsk. Or maybe get a 13mm and use stock pump as a core. Still tossed up about how much fuel I'll really need. Actually, there's an injection shop in town that said he can build pumps. He's an older guy and the shop has been in business for 40 years, so I might give him a try.
For now I'll just pull plate and tune afc, or remove AFC since I'm not streeting it.
Port out stock manifold for now
Stock intake horn
Head done eventually, or maybe one of those pretty new ones from hamilton.
3.55 gears if it doesn't have them already.

Suspension:

Going to do a 4 link conversion in the rear
Going to lower as much as I can


Slicks, 33's most likely.


1. will regular old 60# springs work fine?
2. What coil springs recommended for rear? Or should I just stick with trac bars and removing a leaf?
3. Will 4.10's with 33's run out of gear, in say.... a 10 sec truck?
3. Suggestions for what else I should knock out while I have the cam out and the oil pan dropped?
4. Any other suggestions at all? I know I'm missing little things, but throw everything at me. I want to make a complete list.
 
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EDIT: I'll also be dropping stock lift pump of course, and running whatever else.

For head options, Can a 24v head outflow a ported or aftermarket 12v head? If so, what all is needed to do the swap?
 
Stick with the 12v head and have it worked. To run the 24v head you'll have to swap pistons, I don't think it would be worth it.
 
I like where this is going. Love the look of the RC/LB 2wd dually. My QC dually is getting the reg cab treatment in the next while. Good luck with this.
 
Are you going with the 188 220 or the 181 210? Zachs head with some minor port work will out flow a 24v from the looks of it. And that would be a great setup for lighting big chargers.
 
As for turbo I would use a box borwarner 66/73 t4 they arnt to expensive and make good power then put something bigger under it if that isn't enough.
 
lee01dg said:
Stick with the 12v head and have it worked. To run the 24v head you'll have to swap pistons, I don't think it would be worth it.
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You're probably right.

Tate said:
I like where this is going. Love the look of the RC/LB 2wd dually. My QC dually is getting the reg cab treatment in the next while. Good luck with this.
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Thanks. Me too. Probably going to drop the outer wheel though, and just run wider slicks if I can. I'll keep the fenders on though :D

Lostnwalmart said:
Are you going with the 188 220 or the 181 210? Zachs head with some minor port work will out flow a 24v from the looks of it. And that would be a great setup for lighting big chargers.
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I would like bigger than 188/220. This won't be a streeted truck at all. I'll talk to zach of course, and get his opinion too, but this will be a big turbo, high rpm build. I already plan on fly cuts.

Lostnwalmart said:
As for turbo I would use a box borwarner 66/73 t4 they arnt to expensive and make good power then put something bigger under it if that isn't enough.
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I was thinking of just a really big single, with big cam/head work, lots of porting, I should be able to spool it. Of course, I'll have to research a lot more now that the build is at my doorstep. But it seems shops like ED recommend big singles over compounds for overall power. Spool time isn't a big deal, as long as I can get it lit.

YOUNG GUNS15 said:
WTF..... you cant start a build thread with no pics!!!!!

:nopics:
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I don't have any good pics yet :( Except what was on the craigslist ad. Standy by for link
 
if its a duelly no need to 4 link, cal tracs and big ass slicks

15'' rims will fit the drum brakes with 4'' or less backspacing. the rims are like $87 each for cheap bart wheels

Beltech makes lowering springs, rear shackles and hangers plus the shocks to go with it
 
By the way, this will be a bit of a budget beater. Going to spray can it, fix rust of course, and by parts used as I find deals. Only new parts will be injectors from lee, and stuff like that. Maybe turbo will be new as larger turbo's are generally cheaper. Oh and head work, I already know that won't be too cheap, but I'll deal.

Prices for slicks are what really bug me. That chit is nuts.

94 Dodge 3500 Cummins Dually
 
YURMOM said:
if its a duelly no need to 4 link, cal tracs and big ass slicks

15'' rims will fit the drum brakes with 4'' or less backspacing. the rims are like $87 each for cheap bart wheels

Beltech makes lowering springs, rear shackles and hangers plus the shocks to go with it
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Slicks won't be put on until I need them, but I'm sure I will once the power gets up there, and the trans actually gets the power down.

Why no need for tracs? Axle wrap and hop doesn't happen on dually's? I don't get it.

Already checked out Belltech. I might get some stuff from them, but a lot of stuff will done on the cheap. I'm a big fan of cheap, as long as it's safe.
 
madmikeismad said:
Slicks won't be put on until I need them, but I'm sure I will once the power gets up there, and the trans actually gets the power down.

Why no need for tracs? Axle wrap and hop doesn't happen on dually's? I don't get it.

Already checked out Belltech. I might get some stuff from them, but a lot of stuff will done on the cheap. I'm a big fan of cheap, as long as it's safe.
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There is no need for 4 link etc imo i built the swb single cab dually member schoolbus now owns hes knockim on the door of 10 seconds fuel only with 1.70 60's all day long fuel only with nothing more then a set of caltrac bars all but 2 leafs removed and some belltech shackles on rear leaf hangers. Of course custom length bars had to be fabbed by caltrac due to the lowering but for less then $500 id try it for sure if it dont work resale caltracs there easy to resale and then 4 link. Hes running a 16 x12 mickey thompson classic 2 wheel with a set of 10.5" slicks as well and it works well!
 
Deleting the AFC will be the biggest mistake you'll make, especially with a large single.
 
CREED1 said:
There is no need for 4 link etc imo i built the swb single cab dually member schoolbus now owns hes knockim on the door of 10 seconds fuel only with 1.70 60's all day long fuel only with nothing more then a set of caltrac bars all but 2 leafs removed and some belltech shackles on rear leaf hangers. Of course custom length bars had to be fabbed by caltrac due to the lowering but for less then $500 id try it for sure if it dont work resale caltracs there easy to resale and then 4 link. Hes running a 16 x12 mickey thompson classic 2 wheel with a set of 10.5" slicks as well and it works well!
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Good info, I figured the leafs would only be good so long, and that if I do trac bars, I might as well add another 2 and go 4 link :) . The bars will be homemade too, so the amount of drop doesn't matter.

RJM06590 said:
Deleting the AFC will be the biggest mistake you'll make, especially with a large single.
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Why? Spool time won't reallly concern me. I can get it spooled with my foot at the line, and it's pretty much floored after that. If the turbo falls off once I'm into the run, and I can't get back on top of it, the AFC isn't going to help any. At least not in time to make a decent run out of it. But yes, chances are, I'll leave the AFC in.

shortbusdriver said:
To bad you are not closer to WI. I know this short dude that would be willing to help.
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Truck is coming from ramsey mn, I'm only a few hours from you too (about 6ish). And in a way, you are helping lol. I'm running your injectors in both trucks, and your dv's in the new one. Just because I haven't bought them yet doesn't mean I won't, give me time to make some money :D
 
Ok, here's my shopping list and my todo list so far. Please give suggestions, I know I've left major parts out, but I can't think of anything.

Trans
TC still up in the air, probably goerend
Full man vb
Billet shafts along with regular assortment of internal upgrades

Valvetrain
Hamilton Cam
24v lifters (or 24v cam with cr lifters) Which should I pick?
Appropriate valve springs (will regular 60# springs do for 5k rpms and high boost?)
billet pushrods

Fuel
5k GSK
Full cuts
.120
5x.020's
12mm pump/maybe 13mm if money is right
Raptor pump/lift pump delete

Air
S480, maybe bigger
Ported stock manifold unless new turbo requires new flange type (I'm sure it will)
All the head work I can possibly do on my own, until I am forced to take the head off, then I'll have a good P&P
Stock intake horn
Grid heater delete
5in straight into a stack
Maybe aftermarket IC, depends on if money is right

Support
Rods, when I do the flycuts and cam
Flycuts, as soon as I have to for the cam
24-28* timing, with adjustable pump gear when money is right
Damper with 5k GSK
Girdle

Suspension/Traction/misc...
Drop as many leaves as possible
Caltracs or something similar
Lowered as much as possible
Slicks
Move batteries to the rear, remove if I don't need the weight for traction
Gut the interior except for guages and drivers seat
Cage (hopefully homemade, unless I PCS and the new base is in a crappy town)
 
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