need advice for over 400rwhp 12v DD/tow build

J

jaybuller

USCG MK
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Mar 27, 2009
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I have the truck in my sig, just looking for the best /cost effective set up. There are a few things i want it to be. first is reliable, second is longevity, third is low egts. dont realy want to get into twins ecause of the cost factor but might concider. This is the truck i drive to work in go hunting in and tow with. so it needs to fire up and take me where i need to go everytime with out fail or blowing somthing up. would also like to keep the timing low as possible to keep the wear and tear on the lower end to a minimum. thanks

Heres my thoughts, egts keep low, keep boost/drive pressure low to keep headgaskets in place, and keep my fuel mileage close to the same, dont want a rediculous drop. ALso would like to keep the smoke to a managable level.

If any of this is not doable let me know. I need hardpart advice as far as turbo,injectors goes and suporting mods if any like oringing heads, studs and the like. Also a good clutch recomendation for daily driver and towing.

Thank you
 
How far over 400 do you want to go?
For just a touch over 400 stock 215 injectors or 5x.010" would give you the fuel you needed without the heat and smoke. But for closer to 500hp you might step up to a 5x.12 injector.

For a turbo I would look at an s362 as the base then discuss turbine wheels and housings etc with the turbo builder. You could get away with a s300g if you only wanted an even 400 but something like a s362/65/12 would do better for mid 400s and a 62/71/14 or 62/68/13 may be better for low 500s.

If you keep the boost and timing low you could get by without studs or o-rings but having one or the other would give you an extra safety factor. If you ever have the head off I would have it o-ringed.

I really like my South Bend OFE single disk clutch. It's preformed great and was relatively cheap. But with any single disk you have to be a little cautious not to let them slip any more than you have to. Going with a SBC3250 double disk would allow you to abuse the clutch a little more and not have to worry. I would stay away from the full feramic lined single disk clutches like the SBC FE because they can be a little grappy and hard to back up to trailers with grace.
 
How much power do you think you have now? I'll bet your pushing over 300 right now.
 
wel by the seat of the pants im guessin 275 to 300. i think if i were to do a gsk it would be a little closer to 300. My old 7.3 ford had 365rwhp and this doesnt even come close to feelin like that did. but to ansewr the questions im lookin to be around 450. not a set number or anything just figured that should do!
 
I do not see a 4" exhaust in your signature, that would also be of help. You might consider a more aggressive fuel plate, or just take it out.
 
If you want realibility the biggest thing is preventative parts.

for 400 hp you may get away with it for awhile but I dont think the head gasket will last. here would be my build

timing 16*
3k
#10 plate or if you like your fuel curve keep your 11 and add some 75-90 hp inj
good single clutch (like an ofe)
oring the head with new stock bolts
and either an s300g super 40 or 60-68 s300
4in exhaust

that would be a reliable and useable 400 plus setup
400 could be made alot cheaper (stock charger stock head ect..) but it wouldnt be as reliable or useable
 
gotta12v said:
If you want realibility the biggest thing is preventative parts.

for 400 hp you may get away with it for awhile but I dont think the head gasket will last. here would be my build

timing 16*
3k
#10 plate or if you like your fuel curve keep your 11 and add some 75-90 hp inj
good single clutch (like an ofe)
oring the head with new stock bolts
and either an s300g super 40 or 60-68 s300
4in exhaust

that would be a reliable and useable 400 plus setup
400 could be made alot cheaper (stock charger stock head ect..) but it wouldnt be as reliable or useable
Click to expand...

400hp with cool boost, and decent drive pressure should have no problem with the Stock HG...been running near/over 400hp for going on 100K miles with the stock HG and bolts on my 95, going on 365K total miles.

Not saying every one will do it, but I wouldn't say that every one can't do it either!

Chris
 
thank you guys, i do have a 4" exaust system on the truck, ilooked at gettin some headwork mild porting and orings and that cam out to about 900 bucks then the studs i want are out 400 bucks. so for the headwork i want and the studs its about 1500 bucks, then i looked at some injectors i want they are 5x12 from sdx, and of coarse the clutch for around 1100 with a bigger input. so for all the mods i want to do im lookin at around 3100 bucks then the charger comes into play. I am seriously thinkin twins now. the set up i need should be right around 3k, looks like i need to do some saving or sell a few things....any one need a harley?
 
your correct there is no standard as to what one will hold. I had one blow on me with only a #10 plate and 16* timing running 36# of boost with only 90,000 miles on it, yet my buddys got a 24v with stock gasket and bolts makeing 503 hp and 55 pounds on a 64 s300 with over 200,000 on the setup.

me personally id rather oring the head and not worry about it than hope it does hold only to have it blow.
 
I pushing 60+ with a 71mm and have stock bolts, never been re-torqued...
 
Get a ValAir clutch and use the 1.25" input shaft. For what you want the bigger 1.375" is overkill. I have a 600hp rated ValAir ceramic 3800lb plate load clutch and it drives very nice on the street and I used to tow over 10k nearly everyday when I was baling hay. Plus the price and service that ValAir provides is second to none! You will be a happy customer from start to finish without a doubt.

If you are going to do some mild headwork and a cam then I would go with either a 62/65/12 or 62/68/12 S300 turbo. Any bigger than that will be unneccassary. And if you are going to pull the timing cover off make sure to tab the KDP and install a cam retainer, both of those things got my truck and now I am paying dearly for it!
 
i just figured the bigger shaft in case i ever wanted to go bigger power or ever felt the urge to drop the clutch out hard and fast.
 
For under 500hp I wouldn't waste my money on a cam or port work, its just not very cost effective at that level. It may have benefits but for the money you could do a lot more elsewhere.

Twins would also be a waste for under 500hp IMO. A good single would be cheaper, simpler, and perform and spool just as well if not better. If you went with twins they would have to be super small,.
 
ahh i see, im lookin for the best runnin 400 to 450 hp, quickest spooling, coolest running, i can get. with the best fuel mileage also. thanks for all the responses. how bout this would you guys recomend gettin bigger injectors and keepin the fuel plate small, or gettin a bigger fuel plate and smaller injectors? also whitenight what charger would you recomend? thanks
 
I vote for small injectors and more duration ("bigger" plate)

I would call Engineered Diesel and talk to them about a 62/65 or their 62/68. Or If you have some extra money Tom at turbo resource has helped a lot of people find well matched Garrett turbos.

But thats just my $.02
 
Go with the bigger input shaft for towing...broke the small one under 400hp with my 95, but it tows some heavy stuff, very regularly.

Also, a good cam is ALWAYS a nice upgrade...I can latch on to 35K lbs, and pull hills around here under 1000* EGT after dropping in a Helix 2...before, it would run 12-1300* with the same setup.

For what they cost these days, a cam should be in every engine, IMHO
Chris
 
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