Put a 12v P-pump Cummins in it. Ford chassis is bigger and roomier, and I think you could do the whole thing for 5-6K in parts, it's been done plenty. If it does break (which it won't) YOU can fix the Cummins - if the D-max breaks (they are more reliable than Ford's 6.0L, but not as good as common rails or 12-valves), set aside a weekend and call your mortgage broker. If all you do is tow and drive on the highway, a Chevy will give you the best ride though...
That can be said of all of them. A 12v can hang an injector and melt down like anyone else
The Common rail will be quieter and smoke less, but lots more $ and complicated - 12-valves need exactly 2 wires to run them - one for fuel shutoff and one for the starter - ok, maybe one for a ground - so 3. Also, the 12-valve (if not too extreme and tuned well) will get the best mileage.
There are 7 wires to do a VP or CR (maybe a few more, cant remember the number of grounds). A ppumped 24v can get better mileage than a 12v. They can all smoke like hell.
If all you want is 400-500hp I'd stay with the 7.3L - I used to drive my cummins to work at the Ford dealer and work on/around the 7.3L and 6.0L (not bashing). I actually think the 7.3L Powerstrokes are good engines for what it's worth. Much beyond 500hp and you are asking for it. The v8s will start breaking hard parts in the engine, and although the Cummins won't break - getting from the 400hp mark to 500+ will get expensive (studs, turbos, gaskets, orings, injection pumps, etc) no matter which brand.
500-600 in any cummins is getting almost idiot proof. 400-500 in a 7.3 is a chore.
If you are going to the trouble of a swap get a Cummins, but leave the Ford trans in it. I think stock vs stock the Ford (automatic) trans is better/stronger.
47RH from a dodge, simple, strong, cheap. It will cost a boat load to make the ford auto work.
Just my 2 cents. I have owned several Cummins trucks but worked on all of them. A Ford 7.3L would be my second choice if I could not have a Cummins, the Dmax a distant third. You would have to pay ME to get me to own a Ford 6.0L or 6.4L...
oh - one more IMPORTANT thing - whenever you are considering and engine swap, buy the WHOLE vehicle with the engine. The dumb little stuff will destroy your time and budget, and you can always sell the leftovers to get some $ back. 2wd 12valve trucks are pretty cheap...
The only parts I used off a donor truck were the CAC pipes and the battery cables. The cables were not needed if I had left the batteries in stock locations.