need help, broken stud

smokin1997

smokin1997

I Know Nothing
Joined
Dec 23, 2007
Messages
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need help, broken head stud

ik was doing my first retorque on the new engine, and when i was torqueing the head down, the stud in the middle row, between the #1 and #2 valve cover broke. i was still in the process of getting it tightend down when it did this. it broke in a spiral, about 1 1/2" below the head surface. its not tight cause it can wiggle, but i cant get it out. i cant get a drill bit to bite so i can tap into it cause of the way it broke. im trying not to pull the head off. any suggestions before it gets to that point?
 
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I've heard of people welding to the broken stud. Maybe someone that's done it can chirp in.
 
dont know how you are gonna get that out w/o pullin the head but whos stud was it if you dont mind and how much torque were you pullin it to?

thanks (and sorry)

don
 
I use a shop vac next to drill bit while drilling. If drill bit is very sharp it usually cathes fast.
 
If you pull the head then you will have to get new fire rings. I would try the welding rod.
 
I just went throughthe same thing ,i used a bit almost the same size as the bolt just to take the burrs off put crisco on the bit then used a smaller bit, drilled a hole in the bolt tried the reverse bit had no luck ended up pulling the head , then it came right with no effort ended up it broke the head gasket on both sides were the bolt broke[hope u have better luck]
 
i would try the welding rod thing... put rubber hose around the round til bout the last inch or two from the end of the rod.... use a 7018 1/8" rod turn to 150 amps or so and stick it in the hole make the rod stick to the stud and release the electrode holder then twist the rod...and the stud out ... that is if you know it is lose enough for that lil amount of metal to twist it out... just my $.02

owe and hook your ground as close to the spot where the rod w/ be to prevent arcing of the bearings..!!!!!!!!
 
Yeah use a welder, I broke a 625 off right at the deck, found a old screw driver and wraped it with duct tape untill it just fit the hole. This keeps it isolated from the head and you only weld to the stud.

Cut the screw driver (or long bolt whatever) hook it to one lead of the welder and ground the engine out.

Slowly put it down the hole and you ark stick it, then release the clamp.

Turn out.

Might not be for someone that don't have welding experience.

It works great though, it will be hard to get enough on just a welding rod to turn it unless it is good and loose.
 
thanks for the help guys. since the part of the stud that was in the hole was broke loose, one of the guys at the shop took the top half and set it back in and put pressure on it and it came right out. im sure i got very lucky on that one. i was still getting it tightened down when this broke. there wasnt more that 100-115lbs when it snapped. arp 12mm with a total of 6 or so torques on them since they were new. ill try to get a picture up tomorrow of what the broken one looks like.
 
its running. it takes a lot to get it started though. it will defanitely be a show to get it started at the pulls. i have more to do, but it sounds good. we got a few changs to make still too.
 
we are thinking the compression is a bit lowedr that it was supposed to be. plus a few other factors.
 
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