need some help, rust on fresh block

smokin247

smokin247

New member
Joined
Aug 29, 2010
Messages
374
My engine has been sitting due to lack of time and the machine shop not recessing my valves correctly the first time around. Well I had no problems with any rust forming until this last month, I unwrapped my assembled bottom end and found some rust on the deck. How f@cked am I?

[ame="http://s825.photobucket.com/user/smokin247/media/large%20rust.jpg.html"]large rust.jpg Photo by smokin247 | Photobucket[/ame]
[ame="http://s825.photobucket.com/user/smokin247/media/large%20rust%202.jpg.html"]large rust 2.jpg Photo by smokin247 | Photobucket[/ame]
 
Having trouble posting images... not sure of those are showing up for everyone...
 
Last edited:
That's good to hear. I wanted to get some opinions before I went at it with the scotch bright
 
After I clean the block is there something I should put on the cylinder walls to keep them from rusting after its assembled? It might not be running right away.
 
We use wd40 on our jet skis when we winterize them.

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
 
like chevota says wd40. especially if u use water injection. i spray a healthy doseing in my motor while its running before its sits for the winter. ur case should be no different
 
Use chemical cleaning, resort to physically cleaning if it still needs more.
 
Try workshop hero, metal rescue. It worked awesome for me on the skid steer motor. I have become a firm believer in this stuff.
 
Id soak it in penetrant before going at it with abrasives and see how much wipes off. Scotch brite leaves gritty **** behind, so make sure you clean everything well if you do go that route.
 
I would use a bristle pad instead of a full on scotch-loc pad. I can get pictures tomorrow is you need to see. They make different grits so it takes longer to erode the deck if you stay in one spot too long

Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk
 
1e7e466180e8c4aecc741adba16687c1.jpg


And I agree with Chris, spray that with PB blaster first and let it soak. If it doesn't get it all, it will reduce how much you do have to cut off.

Sent from my XT1053 using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
I try to spray wd40 on any parts I have sitting around periodically, but I must have let the short block sit too long. I'll soak it with some pb blaster and amazon prime some bristle pads and post the results.
 
Left some PB blaster on the block and it took a lot of the rust off.

I also read on another thread that you shouldn't put any wd40 or penetration lube in the bore when assembling the engine. Any one else hear this? They claimed oil only during assembly, I'm just worried about the oil running off over time and leaving bare metal before I get it running.
 
They mean during assembly you don't want any wd40 around the engine. I have zero issues soaking parts in it. I also use it when I run the flex hone. I clean very well prior to assembly.
 
I use lint free rags and some auto transmission fluid to clean up the cylinders, before assembly.
 
The engine is already assembled and as much as I try there's been pb blaster and wd40 running off the deck into the cylinders and passages. I've been trying to keep it clean but should I worry about it getting on the rings and possibly making it down the pushrod passages to the cam?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top