NFUO guys - local Rancho dealer?

Completely off topic: what rear end are you running?

(It's the fabricated " 9" " that was in the truck - I believe Ness built it when the chassis was built - it's a massive piece. Lamb bearing cups, brakes, and shocks, which work like magic I might add. Mark Williams center section, also set up by Derek Lamb - the rear end's been bullet proof.)
 
joefarmer,
It's a Mark Williams unit. Just your average 9.5" ring and pinion based of the tried and true Ford 9" third member, or at least I think they're 9.5". Nothing special. As far as gears, that's a closely guarded secret.

The setup is what you would find in most pro-stock type vehicles. However, it is just the solid axle type, it's not a floating hub design. The floater isn't needed as we're topping out just below 180 MPH. I believe NHRA requires a floater for 210 MPH or greater.

Hope that helps.

Later
Chris

EDIT - Big Thumper beat me...SOB!!!
But he went into more detail as far as components. He is spot on with the Lamb components, and Derek Lamb, for whatever reason, puts up with all our crap and does great work for us; they also sell a VERY GOOD product.

That is all.
 
(It's the fabricated " 9" " that was in the truck - I believe Ness built it when the chassis was built - it's a massive piece. Lamb bearing cups, brakes, and shocks (You mean coilovers.), which work like magic I might add. Mark Williams center section, also set up by Derek Lamb - the rear end's been bullet proof.)

Yes, I'm a post wh*re Matt. It has to do with the column of air above a given scale along with the absolute humidity as defined in my awesome lookup table, all divided by the coefficient of friction of the square of BS.

Later
Chris

EDIT - I wonder if Derek ever got the deposit back for that golf cart?
 
I wonder if Derek ever got the deposit back for that golf cart?

I've got proof somewhere that would probably hold the deposit back ;)
Sparks shooting from the ass end while wheeling with 4 guys on it too... awesome
 
I've got proof somewhere that would probably hold the deposit back ;)
Sparks shooting from the ass end while wheeling with 4 guys on it too... awesome

I have no idea what you are speaking of sir. I have no recollection of that fact, nor would I be at liberty to discuss that particular situation without the presence of a legal representative.

I think some :chug: may have been involved in the procurement of a semi-thrashed golf cart...that, and getting lost on the way to the Port-a-John. That will just teach certain persons not to leave the keys for their golf cart in an accessible location around beer and obnoxious people. My $.02 anyway...

Later
Chris
 
Thanks for the insight. I didn't know if the step up to a 11" modular was necessary at this level.
 
Thanks for the insight. I didn't know if the step up to a 11" modular was necessary at this level.

For a setup like our dragster, though it doesn't have one, and Scheid's rail, running the modular MW setup with floating hubs is probably not a bad idea. It would be worth it, in my opinion, to just step up and be prepared for the 200 MPH barrier, and beyond. It makes more sense, if you've got a setup that you plan on running at 7.00/200MPH or better, to just start with the bigger unit. I'm not 100% without checking, but I believe you can add the floater outer assembly to a fabricated 9.5" or 9" housing...but don't quote me on that.

If I'm right on that, it would definitely make sense to start with the floaters on the outside and still run the "Ford 9-inch" so that you have a lot more options for gears, at least as far as quick availability goes.

That's just me though.

If I'm not mistaken, the NHRA rule is Floating hubs are required at 210 MPH or faster. So if you run 209.99, you're safe as far as rules go, but the safety factor of a completely contained unit that is almost fail safe is a lot nicer than a c-clip or standard Ford 9". On Friday at Speedworld, there was a Grand National, or similar, that lost an axle; had it been going 200+ MPH, it would not have been pretty. Thankfully it stayed together at 60 MPH or so and no one got hurt.

Later
Chris
 
I talked at length with Moser, Strange, and Mark Williams about a rear setup for my super duty project. Moser said no thanks call strange, strange said no thanks call Mark Williams. The Mark Williams guy quoted me 6400 dollars with no brakes and no warranty and a guess of a handfull of passes on a gearset.

This superduty started at 6020lbs. It currently only has the frame rails from the firewall forward. Going back it has 6x2 .120 wall box to about 2 feet behind the cab. 3x2 3/16 wall for the back half 4 link. The front stock engine crossmember has been removed. In its place is a Chris Alstons Chassisworks crossmember kit. Brake rotor to brake rotor complete shipping weight of 166lbs. Using this setup I have removed the radius arm mounts (when I chopped the frame), the radius arms, the ibeams, and the massive rotors and steering knuckles. Also ditched the huge steering gear and linkage.

Rear suspension is chromoly 4-link bars with Santhuff coil overs with titanium shafts. I love knowing they weight less than 4lbs each.

I wanted to use Lamb struts up front. The lady at Lamb almost laughed at me. Yup. I said f-250. Even if I was able to get down to 4k lbs I'm 1200lbs over what they would support.

Using Moser's online calculator. 6.0L diesel with 1400 ft lbs going through a torqshift 3.114 first gear and then through say a 4.30 rear gear puts somewhere around 19,000 ft lbs to the axles. Moser said I needed full float but they wouldn't have hubs due to the potential weight of the truck. Strange said the same thing and was focused on the gearset issue. Mark Williams suggested I step up to a 9.5" or 12" gearset. So a quick check of the 12" price tag of 18,000 dollars made me get the factory 10.5 rear housing narrowed. Its rough trying to fit 34.5x17x16 hoosiers back there.
 
A pic of the Mark Williams Modular 9
91000.jpg


Sure is a pretty piece. And PSD, sucks to be in your situation. It would kill me to have everyone tell me it couldn't be done, or it would cost $X million. You ever think of removing a bunch of sheetmetal from the cab so it's just a few sides and then running carbon fenders, quarters, hood, etc.? I know, it's more cash, but who knows...

Later
Chris
 
A pic of the Mark Williams Modular 9
91000.jpg


Sure is a pretty piece. And PSD, sucks to be in your situation. It would kill me to have everyone tell me it couldn't be done, or it would cost $X million. You ever think of removing a bunch of sheetmetal from the cab so it's just a few sides and then running carbon fenders, quarters, hood, etc.? I know, it's more cash, but who knows...

Later
Chris

The only thing left of the factory bed is the sides of it and the front and rear rails where the bed bolts go. The floor is completely gone and the inner sides were quickly plasma cut out. The front wall of the bed is gone to help get it a little closer to the cab. I keep looking at the carbon wheel tubs on JBRC for 900 bucks. The hood will be a custom piece that is extended to incorporate the wiper cowel area. Going to be going through the cab to remove what can be. There really isn't much left inside though A/C is gone only the plastic dash cover over the tube frame dash and some aluminum Kirkey seats are in there. Still trying to sneek into the Ultimate street catagory.
 
He's gutted that truck to within an inch of it's life....it'll be nowhere near 6000 lbs when it's rolling.
 
I say good luck and buy the good stuff the first time out if you can swing it! I break a bunch of parts even at my low budget, lower hp heap. It is a cummins though! It will eat std. 9" stuff up....... i have moser 35 spline axles and spool and the big bearing ends, along now with the big bearing pinion support, the 28spl. std. gears are my weak link, next time around i'll go to the Pro Gear. Save your self the time and LOTS of extra work and get the good shi* the first time! JMO
Ryan
 
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