No reverse... Stuck in the snow now

mondtster said:
If you haven't bought it yet I don't think I would. Just get a paper and rubber kit and call it done.
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Will do:ylsuper: I found a paper/rubber kit on wittrans.com for $31. Thanks to Big_Blue for that link.
 
Just waiting on parts before I can start reassembling the trans. My stuff from PATC came in yesterday (accumulator, apply lever, both upgraded servos). The shift kit from DTT shipped on Monday so I'm hoping it'll be here before the end of the week. I've got a rear main seal en route from Mumau Diesel (might as well replace it while I've got the transmission out). Oh and the gasket kit is on it's way here as well.

We're supposed to get like 4 straight days of rain here so I'm hoping to get the transmission all put back together in my garage. Thanks again to those that have helped!
 
I finally found the first bit of damage in this trans. One of the two reaction shaft interlocking seal rings had a "tang" missing. Probably not a big deal, but I replaced them both anyway.

Also, does anyone have a pic of the pump gear correctly installed? I forgot to pay attention to which way it came out.

One more question... My rebuild kit came with new piston seals for the clutch packs. Do these need to be replaced for sure?

Final question for the night... :bang What's a good assembly lube? ATF? Vasoline?
 
Pic of the broken sealing ring...
IMG_7944.jpg
 
I've been using vasoline and tranny fluid to assemble my transmission. It's cheap and seems sticky enough to keep washers and shims in place.


So is that broken ring from the pump stator where it seals to the drum?
 
npe3484 said:
One more question... My rebuild kit came with new piston seals for the clutch packs. Do these need to be replaced for sure?
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If you have it this far apart, I would be replacing them. You could probably get away without doing it though and be just fine.

npe3484 said:
Final question for the night... :bang What's a good assembly lube? ATF? Vasoline?
Click to expand...

Vasoline will work fine, I usually use some special transmission assembly lube. It is a bit thicker and stickier than vasoline. One tub has lasted me for years now since you don't use much of it.

If you're reusing your clutches, they're already soaked in ATF. If they are new, I would pre-soak them. I don't know that it really matters much in the long run whether they are or not, but it doesn't really take any more effort to do it.

npe3484 said:
It's one of these sealing rings. I'm not familiar with the term "pump stator".
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The term "pump stator" that is being referred to is the "reaction shaft" in that picture. Basically it is the fixed "tube" with external splines on it that the input shaft goes through and the splines go into the converter. It is also known as the stator support because the stator in the converter slips into the splines and it keeps the inner race of the sprag in the converter from moving.

Make sense? I'm not sure how clear that explanation was...
 
According to the ATSG manual I have, acceptable input shaft end play is 0.022-0.091". Mine is at 0.070" right now. I forgot to take a measurement before I took everything apart, but it "feels" about the same. Should I run it as is, or shim it a little tighter?
 
If you've got selectives to get it tighter I would see what you can do, if not I wouldn't worry about it.

I've seen functioning transmissions having end play that was out of spec. No big deal really.
 
Anyone have an idea on how much just a new or rebuilt pump would run?

Mine is a little hurt from when my input shaft broke 2 or 3 years ago. It still works pretty good, but the converter locks slower when i use the lockup switch now as opposed to before, so I was just wondering what a pump alone would run?

Eric
 
Cummins Driver said:
Anyone have an idea on how much just a new or rebuilt pump would run?

Mine is a little hurt from when my input shaft broke 2 or 3 years ago. It still works pretty good, but the converter locks slower when i use the lockup switch now as opposed to before, so I was just wondering what a pump alone would run?

Eric
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Have you had it apart to see which part(s) of the pump got "hurt" from when your input broke? You can replace the seals and bushings of the pump for really cheap.
 
Cummins Driver said:
Anyone have an idea on how much just a new or rebuilt pump would run?

Mine is a little hurt from when my input shaft broke 2 or 3 years ago. It still works pretty good, but the converter locks slower when i use the lockup switch now as opposed to before, so I was just wondering what a pump alone would run?

Eric
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At Wittrans.com, the whole pump assembly runs $117 plus $15 shipping.

If you just hurt the stator, its about $52. If you hurt the actual machined pumping gears/moving parts, they run about $20. You can also buy a used pump body and gears for $33.

I've heard about retrofitting 48re pump assemblies into these older 47rh and 47re transmissions. I don't know how much it would help or alter shift performance.
 
Well, I either hurt the pump or the converter i guess. I will be pulling the tranny this summer most likely because my rear main seal is leaking. I would almost put a new pump in the tranny while I was there, and send my converter to Goerend to exchange for one with a little looser stall at the same time. My tranny is getting some miles on it, but it still works great, so i wont be building it completely until it gives out for good, so I was thinking of doing this if i was going to have the tranny out anyways. Any opinions on the matter? Thanks

Eric
 
I finally found my lock ring pliers! Which means I'm out of excuses for not working on my trans rebuild, haha. Hopefully I can get it finished up in the next couple nights. The DTT shift kit is here now so I'll probably do a little write-up on that.
 
Bringing this back from the dead....

I got the trans installed today, adjusted the bands, and filled her up with fluid. Then I jacked up the rear end and let it idle in Neutral for a minute or two. Next we shifted it into Drive and tried to run it through the gears...

NO 3rd gear or OD!! Shifted it into Reverse and crossed my fingers. Reverse would barely spin the tires with it jacked up. When I set it on the ground, reverse didn't budge the truck at all!

So I'm back to square one with this issue. Any ideas? Thoughts?

I'm thinking it must be an issue with the front clutch pack. That clutch pack is used in reverse, 3rd, and overdrive, the 3 gears that I'm lacking.
 
Some more info...

With the gear selector in:

  • 1 - It stays in 1st gear, but feels like there is no engine braking.
  • 2 - It shifts from 1 to 2 normally, but again no engine braking in either gear.
 
One last thing... I found a manufacture date on the torque converter of 12/07/07. I haven't driven the thing since January of `10, so it's only been a maximum of 2 years since the Jasper rebuild.
 
You need to rig up a pressure gauge and test the pressure on the 1-2 accumulator port.

Also need to test the pressure on the rear servo port with tranny shift to manual 1st and then test it in reverse. At idle not moving with cold fluid, you should see 55+ psi in 1st and 135+ in reverse.

If you're not getting enough pressure, double check that you have enough fluid in the tranny, it seemed like my tranny drank a few extra quarts the first few times it shifted gears just getting all the air out of the system.
 
I ran a couple of the pressure tests this evening. We hooked the gauge up to the accumulator port and checked the readings in D1, D2, and Reverse. The first time we ran through the tests my helper was holding the brake down the whole time :doh: Anyway, here are the results from that series.

  • Reverse - 165 psi @ idle position, 165 psi @ full throttle position
  • D1 - 120 psi @ idle position, 120 psi @ full throttle position
  • D2 - same as D1

After I realized that he was holding the brake we redid all the tests. Here are those results.

  • Reverse - 0 psi @ idle position, 0 psi at full throttle position
  • D1 - 120 psi @ idle position, 110 psi @ full throttle position
  • D2 - same as D1

According to the FSM I should be getting 145-175 at idle in reverse, and 230-280 at full throttle. In D1 and D2, I should be getting 54-60 at idle and 90-96 at full throttle. Obviously something is internally wrong considering how far off my numbers are.

So, what's my next step?
 
I think you need to drop the pan and remove the valve body and break it down and make sure all of the check balls are in the correct locations.

I'm stumped as to why you have zero pressure with the brakes off but good pressure with the brakes on. Are you sure the tranny is full of fluid? You might want to add another quart just to be sure before you drop the pan.

I'd definitely drive it around the block a couple times and get a few more pressure readings. Be sure to check out the governor port as well, just to make sure it is working properly.
 
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