Oil return help for twin set-up

holsky

holsky

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Oct 5, 2010
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Hey guys,

I need some help figuring out where the best place is to drill and tap my oil pan for my oil return on my s400. I figure it doesnt really matter where it goes but I just want to make sure before I do it. :lolly:

Also what is the best method for putting in the fitting? I figured I would just clean the heck out of it and seal it with jb weld. I wouldnt mind welding it but Im not too sure what type of metal the oil return fitting is. I bought it through sourceautomotive.

Oil Return Bung for 1994-1997 12V


Thanks for your help
Austin
 
holsky said:
I need some help figuring out where the best place is to drill and tap my oil pan for my oil return on my s400. I figure it doesnt really matter where it goes but I just want to make sure before I do it. :lolly:
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Make sure you put the drain above the level of oil in the pan.
 
I would weld it in, depending on the bung material. The only one ive really seen was just straight under the turbo, almost at the top of the pan. But I havent actually this so, that just my 2cents
 
Of course if you could weld it in its better, but there are thousands of turbo and superchargers with JB welded in oil bung.
Heck, thats how paxton and vortech tell you to do them on their kits.
 
npe3484 said:
Thread I started on the same subject...

12v twin turbo owners, how did you do your 2nd oil drain? - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together
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Cool, thanks a lot for that! I just pulled the motor out tonight, so once I get my s400 mounting bracket and hot pipe and get those set up I'll see where the best spot is to tap. Normally how far up does the oil level set? Or is it just best to go as high up as I can on the pan?

I have a buddy who tig welds so I'll have him look at the fitting and see if it can be welded. If not I'll just tap it in there with jb weld. I've done a turbo set up on a civic before and had to tap the oil pan but used a different expoxy and it didn't work too well but held up that's why I was wondering if the jb weld would work better.

I really appreciate your help guys! I've learned a lot from this website just from reading posts. I'm always scared about asking dumb questions. But I guess we got to start somewhere. Lol
 
JB Weld will break down ove time when in contact with oil, or atleast the two times I have used it close to oil it did. If you can get a "weld-let" that would be best IMO if you want to be able to remove the drain. You can just weld the steel drain tube in there.
 
i have put them in the pan, but i have also just "T" them into the factory drain line right before going into the block.
 
I might look into just T ing them into each other. Any parts you guys recommend?
 
Not that it matters, but I have a paxton on my mustang and tapped the pan, threaded it and put some tape on it when I screwed the fitting in. No epoxy or anything, 5yrs to date not a drop of oil from it
 
holsky said:
I might look into just T ing them into each other. Any parts you guys recommend?
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i just bought another push in part from cummins and cut it down and made the "T". it is pretty easy pulling the stock one from the block.
 
Well my buddy took a look at that fitting and says he can easily mig weld it. So I figure im just going to have him do it. It would be a lot simpler to run the oil return straight down to it.

Also I took off my old fuel ??... Haha not sure what its called. But its right behind the p-pump I think its the old sending unit. I know it goes into the block and Im wondering if they make a block of place of some sort to seal it up? Does anyone know if they do? If not I figure I can cut a piece of steel to cover it up and seal it.
 
holsky said:
Well my buddy took a look at that fitting and says he can easily mig weld it. So I figure im just going to have him do it. It would be a lot simpler to run the oil return straight down to it.

Also I took off my old fuel ??... Haha not sure what its called. But its right behind the p-pump I think its the old sending unit. I know it goes into the block and Im wondering if they make a block of place of some sort to seal it up? Does anyone know if they do? If not I figure I can cut a piece of steel to cover it up and seal it.
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Are you talking about the mechanical fuel pump? A block off plate for a Chevy 350 will fit and they can be had at any automotive store.
 
Twisted Shifter said:
Are you talking about the mechanical fuel pump? A block off plate for a Chevy 350 will fit and they can be had at any automotive store.
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Ok yeah thats it. Ill have to see if I can find one!
 
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correction, you will need a big block chevy fuel block off plate
 
I wouldn't recommend T'ing the return into the factory line. That is a lot of oil to fit into on drain, if the drain is not free flowing it can cause the turbo to leak or overheat.
 
Ok guys I went a different direction with my oil pan now. I thought to my self why should I weld in that oil fitting if something ever happend and i need to go back to a single charger. So i got a 1/2" coupler from work and cut it in half and got my hole drilled in my pan. And now im going to get the coupler welded in the pan that way i can just put a plug in it if anything ever happend.

So my question is, does it matter how far the coupler is in the the oil pan or does it need to be flush? I didnt know if it would hurt anything with it being maybe 1/4" in the pan.
 
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