Two things.
First a few pictures of the most involved part of the G56 swap the crossmember. I was told to get a wide version, but I'm hearing people having clearance issues with the 271 flange or driveshaft. So I stuck with the one I had.
The album isn't big enough for all the pictures and if anyone takes this swap on and wants some more just PM me and I'll email them.
Where I cut.
Cut crossmember.
Drilling holes after it was tacked together. This shows a little bit of the offest compared the 47RE.
Welded piece.
Finish product.
Second it's time to get
serious about tuning the truck up to run right. I towed my Duramax a few weeks ago and the bouncing hasn't changed much. I will say that towing has also slowed down compared to the automatic. The truck was down for a while during the swap and I couldn't test what I changed. So, I've got the parts and next week I'll start having the time.
Timing: It seems the many of you feel the timing is off, which I agree with. I think it's the biggest issue with my truck and I'm finally going to fix it. 17.5 degress static with plunger lift had me around 10 degress on the timing light. I don't have the diesel timing light available to me anymore [unless someone in Central OH does] so I'm going to have to go off of plunger lift. I think I'm going to get as close to 21 as I can and see how that works. The truck does run a little cooler in OH than it did in NM, but it's still WAY too hot. Runs about 900 down the road at 60mph.
Fuel: Hooked up my fuel gauge to the pump and it's still losing pressure up top. So I'm going to buy a Beans Sump and run that to the factory stuff. I have a MITUSA and two filter heads I had ultimately planned to install, but if the sump and bigger line fixes my issue, why waste the money? It's just a farm truck.
Delivery Valves: I have 7mm DVS, but I'm going to hold off on those until I get things squared away elsewhere. At the moment I get a puff starting off, and slight haze going down the road. Obviously I need no extra fuel, but perhaps after other things are fix I can add a little to the mix. For now factory 181's are doing fine.
Cam and valvetrain: My truck falls flat on it's face after 2600rpm. Maybe my valvesprings are tired, but I'm going to check all other areas [fuel, timing, etc] before installing the cam, springs, pushrods, and tappets so I can give a accurate account of how the cam helped or didn't help. It's all Hamilton stuff. This will also give me a chance to fix my timing case that has a little crack.
AFC and AFC live: I guess to understand the full benefit of AFC live I would need to better understand how to tune my truck. I'm thinking about buying on of these kits to help me tune as I drive and maybe take some of the mystery and time out of tuning the AFC on this truck. It would also seem to give me a "tow tune" and "street tune" by dialing in the knobs, that is about the coolest thing for 12v motors since the Ppump came along.
Governer Springs: I'm starting over with the GSK. It's been like 8 years since I installed Peaks Diesel's 4000rpm GSK. At the time I remember people claming "4000 is good for sticks, 3000 for auto" but has anything changed since then? I don't plan on revving much over 3600rpm. Should I be looking for something better? If not I'm starting over with the GSK. I can't remember how or what I put in there, if it's got the spring for 4000 or 3000, so I'm pulling it all out and reinstalling it. I'll be posting pictures and requesting advice about setting those up. I think that's a good place to start.
Exhaust leaks: I did find a gasket leaking on #6 at the manifold during the G56 swap. I fixed that, but it seems the 4 center section bolts on the HX35 want to back out. Does anyone think that locktite would stand up to that heat or would lock washers be my only option?
Drive Pressures and Turbo pressures: I've got ports in my manifold and turbo piping the take these readings. Can anyone point me in the direction for what to buy to check drive pressure? Should I be mounting drive gauge in the cab permanently? I mean it doesn't change too much does it, or would it be used detect exhaust leaks or other issues? If there is a good thread on this stuff please post it, I need to better understand it.
Waste gate: My old spring setup fell apart during one of my 1800 mile trips and now it's wired shut. I'm going to get another one on there quick, but I have one of these
http://www.engineereddiesel.com/wastegates should I invest the money to use it instead? It's the T3 plate and has the round waste gate flange. I have no other parts for it. Now, the HX35 has a larger waste gate hole and flapper with a 14cm housing and it dumps into the hot pipe. Should I be trying to dump the ED gate into the downpipe as well? Again, I'm not up on this stuff.
For the guy talking about the posi causing bounce. My posi is officially locked. I'm not sure if that would change your opinion, but it's somehow fused itself together.
I'm probably forgetting something else, but that's the bulk of it. Any help getting my old 12v running proper would be greatly appreciated.