One piece driveshaft done now major issues

Stealth hotshot

Stealth hotshot

Diesel whiz
Joined
Dec 27, 2012
Messages
227
Okay so I kept ripping out steady bearings. were talking four or five in a week. so my research leads me to believe that I should put a one piece driveshaft. did that went 300 km under heavy load 20,000# all was well. unloaded reloaded about 22,000pounds as I got back on the highway and got up to about 120 km/hr.it was like someone flicked a switch and started getting a violent vibration .Took it to the dealer they're telling me that my pinion angle is off they want to shim it Down some and add a leaf spring does this sound like the right thing to do???


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It's a 74 inch aluminum and yes leveling kit with extra leaf and airbags


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You were going through a carrier bearing on almost a daily basis? There's something else wrong there.
 
I agree you have another issue if it's that hard on carrier bearings. Find that problem and fix it.

Aside from that, you may be at the critical speed of the one piece shaft, causing your violent vibration. There are many factors that determine the critical speed of a driveshaft; diameter of the driveshaft, material, and length. Also consider the final drive ratio of your transmission, axle gear ratio, and tire size when calculating the critical speed of the driveshaft.
 
The one peice shaft is a 6 inch mopar part that is on all the new trucks set up just like mine here is some pics ImageUploadedByTapatalk1367376806.238008.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1367376820.333512.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1367376836.326192.jpg
My 2 peice shaft needed a replacement anyways so I opted for the one piece to lose one u joint and get rid of launch shudder and it did its job that way in just curious if I get the pinion shimmed like the dealer wants if that will solve my problem or am I wasteing money

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I did a new clutch and rebuilt the drive shaft in on not too long ago and the guy used it to haul a crap load of weight. It lasted about 10 minutes with a trailer and wiped the drive shaft out. Turns out the tranny was coming apart and causing a ridiculous vibration when loaded. The G56 is a piece of crap when used that hard IMO.
 
Yeh it should be good I got it rebuilt in January new sb 3250 as well


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You have another issue here if you are going through carrier bearings that fast. Did you notice if a weight had fallen off of the drive shaft? Might get a new two piece, or get your checked to make sure it is balanced and upgrade the carrier bearing to the heavy duty one, a Spicer #210391-1x.

I put a one piece in mine, and within 500 miles took it back out because of the length with it being a steel unit it could not balance over 3,000 RPM shaft speed, which is 70 MPH in my truck. Anything above that I would get a vibration that just kept getting worse the faster I went.
 
Stealth hotshot said:
The one peice shaft is a 6 inch mopar part that is on all the new trucks set up just like mine here is some pics View attachment 43055View attachment 43056View attachment 43057
My 2 peice shaft needed a replacement anyways so I opted for the one piece to lose one u joint and get rid of launch shudder and it did its job that way in just curious if I get the pinion shimmed like the dealer wants if that will solve my problem or am I wasteing money

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Click to expand...

Oh boy. Thats surely the correct bearing. For the thing to shred the molded rubber mount that fast you have something seriously wrong. Who installed the bearing? Where they careful to drive/press on the inner race?

Ive seen where guys pound that slip joint in the center together with a hammer not realizing there is a wide tooth that must be lined up. That would put alot of stress on the bearing and cause a failure like that.

That is not likely a balance issue and "upgrading" to a spicer 210391-1x will probably make the problem worse. I would not recommend using a 210391-1x on any driveline with 2 slip yokes as nothing holds the bearing into the rubber mount.

74" for a single piece aluminum shaft should be fine depending on gear ratio and tire size ( or basically actual driveshaft rpm) If the issue with the single piece shaft only occurs when un loaded or loaded, its most likely an angle problem.
 
What ever the issue with that kind of vibration fatal failure is just one spin around the block away! Only thing I can think of is a pinion bearing loose or trans mount....maybe output shaft bearing? But those would cause a major oil leak! Did you put blocks in the rear? Change the angle in any way,put trac bars on it?
 
1pieceatatime. said:
Oh boy. Thats surely the correct bearing. For the thing to shred the molded rubber mount that fast you have something seriously wrong. Who installed the bearing? Where they careful to drive/press on the inner race?

Ive seen where guys pound that slip joint in the center together with a hammer not realizing there is a wide tooth that must be lined up. That would put alot of stress on the bearing and cause a failure like that.

That is not likely a balance issue and "upgrading" to a spicer 210391-1x will probably make the problem worse. I would not recommend using a 210391-1x on any driveline with 2 slip yokes as nothing holds the bearing into the rubber mount.

74" for a single piece aluminum shaft should be fine depending on gear ratio and tire size ( or basically actual driveshaft rpm) If the issue with the single piece shaft only occurs when un loaded or loaded, its most likely an angle problem.
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Oh yeah I know about the one tooth that must lineup they will not go on any other way am pretty sure. It's a vibration when loaded or unloaded it don't matter. And that Spicer steady bearing that's exactly the reason why never put one on as for the traction bars I'm working on it but I'm just unsure on how good they will work with towing all the time and I haven't added or taken out any blocks in the rear in years that's why I'm just dumbfounded by this vibration


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Stealth hotshot said:
Oh yeah I know about the one tooth that must lineup they will not go on any other way am pretty sure. It's a vibration when loaded or unloaded it don't matter. And that Spicer steady bearing that's exactly the reason why never put one on as for the traction bars I'm working on it but I'm just unsure on how good they will work with towing all the time and I haven't added or taken out any blocks in the rear in years that's why I'm just dumbfounded by this vibration


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Didn't you have a broken spring hangar or something not too long ago? How was it repaired? Maybe the rear axle isn't square in the frame.
 
Yes sir we did but I mean what it comes down to is millimeters in the setup it's been fine for the last couple months so I kinda ruled that out but who knows had a four wheel alignment a couple weeks ago so I would think if it was out any they would have told me besides the tires would start to wear funny if it was out at all would it not


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I'm leaning towards rear axle issue: pinion angle when loaded, spring issue, etc. You've changed bearings and driveshaft, still have issues........
 
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