P-pumped 24valve?

Haisley is selling a kit too but if I remember right both do not include pump and a few other little things. The wiring harness has been my main thing. I want something that is going to be seemless and form the general discuss I have heard around the place you have to get a 98 12v harness for it to work seemlessly.
 
GSM-01 said:
I want something that is going to be seemless and form the general discuss I have heard around the place you have to get a 98 12v harness for it to work seemlessly.
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you lost me on this sentence??
 
gotta be a 12 valve, and the haisley kit is the scheid kit. you get choice of line size if i remember...but still gotta have the pump and fab up a linkage
 
Diesel junkie, I have no idea what you'll end up with for timing. I gather this will not be a daily driver? With the parts you have listed wanting to install my guess is you should start at around 14-16? You can go more, much much more, but don't try to pull a trailer or anything any distance. Just my opinion.
 
ill be driving the truck to school and work. if i do pull a trailer it will be a light low-boy. im mainly goin for Dyno/Drag truck.
 
I just talked to a guy from texas who is actually selling his 2000 P-pumped truck on EBay, he didnt use the 98 ecm, just the 2000, his timing is set at
23*, not a bad truck, haisley and schied parts, take a look at it, dont have a link. but pretty straight truck.

he also said for better streetablity and towing you could use the rv275 injectors
 
23 is no big deal, just takes a little off the bottom! 30 is a flat pig for a daily driver and 20 seems to be the best overall.

Jim
 
Wow, yea I couldn't even follow that lol. I think it was from the hangover but I can't remember.... What I meant to say was I have a 98.5 24 valve. Can the 98 12v underhood harness be used and work seemlessly with the under dash harness or does everything have to be replaced? What I have heard is that the harnesses are close and minimal splicing and cutting is required. I was just wondering if this is so cause I can get a 98 12v harness and then when I p-pump my 24v use the 12v harness with only minor modifications. Sorry about that jamesl.
 
I thought the main concern is the cam position sensor on the cover. If you don't put it back on will the computer think that the motor is not running and not make anything else work? That is the main holdback on my conversion right now. The vp cover can't be made to fit the p-pump, not enough meat.
 
You have to have the sensor there. That's one of the splicing things that has to be done, or so I am told.
 
I talked to a gentleman that has done the conversion and they have a different way of putting the cam sensor on.
He takes the sensor ring off of the 24v gear and centers it and welds it to the front of the 12v gear. He then makes a steel spacer and welds it to the front cover, then works it down to the right thickness for clearance on the cam sensor.
You can still keep the top dead center pin and have the cam sensor where it is easily accessible.
They have several trucks running this way and have no problems with this setup.
 
LOL just pull the gauge cluster out plug in the soldering iron and de-solder the pesky bulb outta there........
 
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