passenger battery boiling

2000_fummins

2000_fummins

jack of all master of few
Joined
Sep 3, 2011
Messages
1,196
Ok I took all the battery connections apart, cleaned them, and greased them. Made shore passenger to driver wire was good and tight. Had both batteries checked, they passed. All conections looked good except 1 but I don't know we're the wire goes. It's a green wire on positive side on the passenger battery.
 
Just went out to the truck. That green wire goes to the alternator . Would a ****y connection cause it to boil
 
ECM senses voltage on the drivers battery but the alternator charges to the passenger. When the ECM commands the alt to charge then charging voltage must be able to be sensed on the drivers battery or the ECM commands the alt to overcharge the passenger battery. Bet your crossover cable is corroded internally. Ohm it out and check it.
 
ComnRailPwr said:
ECM senses voltage on the drivers battery but the alternator charges to the passenger. When the ECM commands the alt to charge then charging voltage must be able to be sensed on the drivers battery or the ECM commands the alt to overcharge the passenger battery. Bet your crossover cable is corroded internally. Ohm it out and check it.
Click to expand...

Think I'm Gona do a quick an dirty method since all my tools are at work. Think hooking up a single jumper cable from positive to positive will do the trick?
 
Should if that's what's going on. Only other thing I can think it could be is bad battery or bad alt.
 
ComnRailPwr said:
Should if that's what's going on. Only other thing I can think it could be is bad battery or bad alt.
Click to expand...

Forgot to mention I had batteries checked. They passed . Didn't have alternator checked though. I'll try the jumper cable tomorrow . Thanks if anyone has any more suggestions I'm more then willing to listen.
 
If the battery temp sensor has failed the ecm thinks the batteries are cold. And is pumping maximum voltage into it.

Also the crossover cable as was mentioned. Will cause the same result.
 
Battery temp sensor is under the driver's side battery. Had the same thing happen to me last year and I replaced the whole circuit. The intake heater relays are also part of that circuit and can get stuck open, but most likely is the crossover cable or the temp sensor.
 
I just had this problem. Fixed yesterday.
Possible causes: bad DS battery, bad cables, bad grounds, battery sensor, bad alternator, or TIPM.

I replaced the PS with the quickness, connected a new Red Top, and it boiled and caught fire..

Went out and bought two this time.

Replaced ground cables and power cables, i figured with $400+ worth of batteries, new cables would be nice preventative measures.
The grounds were internally corroded. Then i cleaned the tray that holds the battery sensor and it had a good inch of mud caked on the sensor (I thought i cleaned everything properly).

Now i guess i got lucky because that fixed it for me.

The bad engineering with the electrical system is a Fuster Cluck. DS gets read, and the PS gets the current?
I ran a single for about a week with no issues.
 
I've had this same issue and I understand it this is fairly common problem. The issue is in the positive crossover cable going to the driver's side battery. Most times the cable has excessive corrosion inside insulation or is partially broken within a few inches of the driver's side positive terminal. Ohm the cable out from terminal to terminal for confirmation.
 
B_Bail said:
I've had this same issue and I understand it this is fairly common problem. The issue is in the positive crossover cable going to the driver's side battery. Most times the cable has excessive corrosion inside insulation or is partially broken within a few inches of the driver's side positive terminal. Ohm the cable out from terminal to terminal for confirmation.
Click to expand...

I know i'm reviving an old thread but for the crossover cable as a preventative measure i bought 1/0 tinned copper from a company named BestBoatWires. The tin makes them much less likely to corrode and no loss of power in any way. I checked ohmage, voltage and amperage, and it's all the same.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top