pinion angle vs tailshaft???

edgaryz3

edgaryz3

New member
in my swb 1/2 ton d150 I installed a 47 rh trans and now the bell housing hits the cab. so now my tailshaft sits lower than my pinion. angle at the tailshaft is 7 degrees down. so my question is can I just turn the pinion up to 7 degrees and call it ok. just looks weird with the driveline being backwards compared to what you would normally see.

also the reason its off that much is the truck is low, I flipped the axle it sets on top of the leafs now.

from what I understand a driveline doesn't care which way its layin as long as you tailshaft and pinion are parallel?? any thoughts just wanted to make sure..
 
Try stretching the trans tunnel at the cab ? or you'll have to play with the angles at the rear, but making them equal doesn't mean it won't create other issues. You could also put a cv head at the trans and leave the rear at 0
 
i hate to cut on the cab because the truck is done so im gonna have to change it at the rear end. here is some pics to get a better idea of what it looks like, its not horrible but u can see.

at the yoke 7 degrees down
TRANS005_zpsb1f11133.jpg


better shot of how the u joint sits
TRANS006_zpsf840396d.jpg


driveline setting pretty much on 0
TRANS008_zpsd125b13e.jpg


TRANS007_zps032683af.jpg


rear end is set at 0

TRANS010_zps8b930fdc.jpg


could I just go negative on the pinion to make up for it or go more positive?? not sure which way to role the rear end??
 
You can try it the other way, or you could put a cv on it at your local driveline shop, or lower the motor
 
A double cardon or an actual cv style (ball and trunion) would work.
Negative pinion angle as much as you can stand. Depends on vehicle purpose.
I have seen as much as- 30* in circle track application. Dont know if there was a valid reason for this extreme angle
 
oh ok, its just a street and occasional strip truck. I thought I kinda needed sum negative anyways for axle wrap?? I do have have trac bars you cant barely see it in one pic under the fuel tank...I was debating about going 3-5 degrees down on the pinion with some shims and see how it does....how would that style of joint help anyways?? just want to learn a little more bout them before I pull it back out and cut the driveline again.
 
I personally would shoot for negative 2 to 4 degrees on the rear end to help with traction. As far as transmission and driveshaft angles, I'm not experienced enough to state what you can get away with although intuitively you'd want as little angle as possible.
 
my driveshaft is similar to the OP's, since I've kept my 2-piece shaft, but not 7deg worth (cant remember, thinking in the 4deg range).
 
ok I get it now I looked those up since I figured out what u guys was talking about. seems those thing split your degrees. so instead of have 7 degrees on one u joint it would be 3.5 on each u joint in the cv joint.am I understanding it right??
 
Pinion angle on a two joint shaft should mirror (opposing) angles. Picture perfect 90 deg to the deck on tailshaft and pinion yoke. Your setup will just look opposite of a typical or lifted pickup where the tailshaft is higher than the pinion. Angles still need to mirror each other.

Others are correct in saying that a CV (double cardan) shaft will allow you to move the pinion to "close" to 0 deg. (inline with) to the drive shaft. You just have to decide how much you want to or can move the pinion angle. Play around with shims to rid yourself of driveline vibrations at cruising, decel, or accel. There will be a happy place for it.
 
Without having to do major work, I would just shim your axle up a few degrees. They say you want them close to parallel under load. Set your axle around 3-4*. Do you have caltracs or something to limit axle wrap?
 
Supershafts said:
A cv assembly ?
Click to expand...

well I actually called several places and its seeming to be hard to find the slip yoke that fits my trans and works with the cv joint. need to do more digging...im gonna drive it n see what happens, maybe throw sum degree shims in it before I try the cv...guess the worst case is to cut the tunnel as and raise the trans which would be last resort!!

the biggest cv is 1350 from what ive seen, unless I could do a 1410 to a 1350 u joint to the cv and then the centering thing in the cv be on the driveshaft side, it all might work that way???
 
diesel_importer said:
Without having to do major work, I would just shim your axle up a few degrees. They say you want them close to parallel under load. Set your axle around 3-4*. Do you have caltracs or something to limit axle wrap?
Click to expand...

yes I have a set of traction bars under it, im gonna try 2 turns of preload on them. last time I drove it I had a little bit of wheel hop. but I guess that's another problem I need to work out. I have a set of 2.5 degree shims I thought about throwing in it for the time being.
 
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