Power Windows to Manual Windows

NakeDiesel

NakeDiesel

Smoke'n in the Mud
Joined
Jan 20, 2010
Messages
1,116
Has anyone converted thier power windows to a manual crank? What parts are needed? Looking at weight savings, but still need to be able to use the windows, has anyone converted thier power window door setup to a manual crank? All 3 Second gen cabs I have all have power windows, so I don't have an example to look at or scab parts off of, and want to make one trip to the salvage to get what I need.

I'd just remove the motors and the electronics, but I need the windows to function because when I get out of most mud pits, the front windshield is completely covered in mud and is impossible to see out of.

This is on a 96 2500.
 
Well, part of what I'm doing before this season starts is remove or negate the places that have been holding mud where I can. I've removed a lot of places that held mud over the season that I couldn't wash out between races. Last season I started each race 800lbs heavier than my brothers truck, my goal is to get the truck down to under 5000lbs for this season, that means I need to remove about 300lbs since I weighed last. The truck was very nose heavy as well.

So I'm attaching it this way, what I can't remove, I'm shifting it to the bed of the truck like the radiator and battery, ice chest for the w2a cooler and pump, I'm putting the w2a cooler under the dash behind the engine, I've removed the alternator, pulleys and going to an electric water pump. I'm cutting out the front steel inner fenders and going to make some out of aluminum to better keep mud out of the engine bay. I've cut off about 40lbs of metal so far from the cab and the frame with more to come.

I'm skinning the front of the engine compartment where the radiator used to be with aluminum and taking that under the truck to the first x member under the engine to further keep mud out of the truck. I wish the rules allowed me to run a hood stack, but I want to stay in Class 2 for this season, planning on running points for class 2 and 3 this year. All 4 fenders will have metal cut out of them, I'm also going to remove the 2" spacers on the front springs too. I'm moving from the factory wheels to a set of aluminum dick cepek's I have on my 99 currently for more weight reduction.
 
The weight difference between power and manual is 1#. The holes are in the door for manual windows, you just need the regulator.

If it were me, I would just run some lap belts instead.
 
lap belts? That's something I didn't think about. I've got the original seatbelts out of the cab that I could gut and attach somehow and use a hook on the inside to adjust them. Time for some thinkin on that. Thanks for the idea.
 
roachie , is right ...you just need the window reg's and a crank .. us bodymen take that **** apart everyday
 
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