Pros and cons from M&H drag radial to cheater slicks

dnrcustoms

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Sep 29, 2008
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I'm on the fence on stepping up to some cheater slicks over my drag radials. I have heard some mixed reviews. I'm cutting decent 60s and great times with my drag radials. But I feel im over powering them and getting loose more times than hooking. Also would like to leave a bit harder but 22 psi is about all it can stick.
Best passes so far is a 6.02 at 121 and 9.41 at 150.
Truck is still a 6100lb terd.

Thanks.
 
What does the truck 60ft normally? Seems like a lot of teams run the cheaters.
 
I just bought the Hoosier cheater slicks...they a pretty new at least in the size I'm getting. I hope they hook well.

What's your 60s now?


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What was Ben running last year on his truck? They did well for him.
 
Pros 390 radial:
radial, better street wear, better street manners
tubeless
17" fits without mods

Cons 390 radial:
Smaller diameter (only 1/2")
More expensive
Harder tread compound
Heavier

Pros 30-14-16 cheater:
Lighter
Cheaper
Softer tread compound
Run with a lighter 10" wheel
Slightly larger diameter

Cons 30-14-16 cheater:
Not a good street tire
Wear faster
Have to mod brakes to fit 16's
M&h recommends tubes
 
I know Ben hated when he switched!!
I am 1.5-1.55 60' now. I just would like to be able to leave harder.
Definatly not a street machine anymore so that's not an issue anymore. I may try some more adjusting on the caltracs to see if I can get the ass end to plant a little harder. Feels like the truck is just driving foward and not planting the rear.
 
That's what I am running . your 60' was better then mine at Bowling Green. The side walls are a lot softer and more unstable. The reason I went with them is they are a little taller then the radials .
 
I know Ben hated when he switched!!
I am 1.5-1.55 60' now. I just would like to be able to leave harder.
Definatly not a street machine anymore so that's not an issue anymore. I may try some more adjusting on the caltracs to see if I can get the ass end to plant a little harder. Feels like the truck is just driving foward and not planting the rear.

That's not too bad. Have you sprayed the crap out of them with VHT, or soaked them in it overnight before a race?
 
A Pro for the cheater slicks as well is if you are running at a truck that is well maintained they will let you launch and run down the groove in the lanes. My local track and others i have been to will not let a person near the grooves with a radial tire as it is more likely to slip and tear the rubber and compound up that they spend hours putting down before each race day. That should also help make a consistent and faster 60ft's.
 
That's not too bad. Have you sprayed the crap out of them with VHT, or soaked them in it overnight before a race?

I actually treated them for the first time since I owned them before ts and seemed to help. I was up in the 1.6s before that. The stuff I put on was kinda a pain. Had to roll it on, be nice to find some aerosol stuff.
 
Since 4x4's don't burn out that well, treating them will definitely help. At a hard hooking track, you should be 1.40's for sure!
 
I made the switch this season after years with drag radials. I don't believe I have gained much in the 60' department. The benefit is the larger diameter if someone is rpm limited. I needed new tires anyway so made the switch, if already have a good set of drag radials, then IMO you wouldn't see much improvement.
 
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Derek, a lot of trucks seemed to have a hard time getting traction in Bowling Green. Your truck hooked pretty darn well at the test with Fleece in Indy. I would suggest waiting till after you run Indy again at the end of the month before deciding to switch tires... Running on a well prepped track, you will probably hook a lot better.
 
I have cut 1.45-1.50 60 ft. times the last few times we were out on drag radials. Get the ass end of that thing down on the bump stops and pre-load the caltracs.

on edit: that was at 30psi launch weighing 7000lbs.
 
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I don't think anyone needs to do any adjustments after ts. Track was terrible.

I'm hoping indy will be well prepped track. I know it won't be worse.
 
Ya.. Ts was good for qualifying then went to hell.
Denver was great untill finals. 60' went from 1.50s to mid 1.6s.
I will probably continue running the radials and play with susp setup for now.
 
Ya.. Ts was good for qualifying then went to hell.
Denver was great untill finals. 60' went from 1.50s to mid 1.6s.
I will probably continue running the radials and play with susp setup for now.

Derek, I have a good quality go pro side shot of our race that I will get posted. Perfect shot of your truck going all the way down the track. Videos help me a ton looking at the tires and suspension, etc.
 
Ya.. Ts was good for qualifying then went to hell.
Denver was great untill finals. 60' went from 1.50s to mid 1.6s.
I will probably continue running the radials and play with susp setup for now.

I couldn't believe they let you two run, they had a couple test n tune daily driver muddy underside 4x4 guys run just a few passes before you that did wicked bouncy jackrabbit launches and tons of dirt was spread on the first 100' of the track. That's why that 10.90 truck did a 500' 4x4 burnout right before you two ran.

I was worried you or Rob would end up in the wall but you both handled the slick track well.
 
I have cut 1.45-1.50 60 ft. times the last few times we were out on drag radials. Get the ass end of that thing down on the bump stops and pre-load the caltracs.

on edit: that was at 30psi launch weighing 7000lbs.

WRONG!!!

You DO NOT want Caltracs pre-loaded when in a static position if foot braking!! They should be set to the recommended pre-load when in a brake boosted condition only which typically puts the pin 3/8-1/2" OFF the spring in the static position.

Pre-loading Caltracs in the static position is correct only when using a transbrake.

This adjustment change only was the difference between a hopping, inconsistent 1.50-1.55 60' to a consistent, smooth 1.40-1.42 60' in a 6,800 lb. truck.
 
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