Pulling reciever???
- Thread starter house
- Start date
jneal
Fleece Performance
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2007
- Messages
- 269
What I do, and most other people do to the factory dodge hitches to reinforce them is . Get a 3x3 piece of thick angle iron and weld to the hitch crossbar. Just lay it on top of the crossbar and weld it in. Then run 2 peices of 2x2 square tube at 45* angle from the angle iron you just welded in to the hitches frame mounts. Then move the hitch forward one bolt hole. As far as going between the frame and under. I've had both and really didn't notice a difference between the 2, since both were the same distance from the axle centerline.
ILLINOISRAM
INLINE INSANITY
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2008
- Messages
- 2,891
How much differance can be had by switching up and putting a drawbar style hitch that pulls from the axle centerline? I now its better but what could a guy expect differance wise?
HIGH TECH RAM
Haters!
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2007
- Messages
- 2,857
a good bit more!
ILLINOISRAM
INLINE INSANITY
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2008
- Messages
- 2,891
As in what? I assume it will actually have more down pull on the front end. Has anybody had to throw weight around after switching to a setup like this from the stock reciever? I have been contemplating this change but dont know how much it will change the way my truck acts.
Sorry for the hijack House.:bang
Tim
Like Jerrod said, doesn't really matter where it mounts the only thing that matters is the distance from the rear axle to the hook point. Only advantage of going between the frame rails is that the vertical portion of the frame is stronger than the bottom lip. Only seen a couple frames bend the bottom lip down but it is possible. Good luck with the new truck!
house
the Fat kid!
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2006
- Messages
- 3,783
well looking over rules
I have it sitting between frame rails right now, nd to top of frame, but I can not get drill in the C channel to drill it.. So i was going to weld the receiver in place? Any thoughts about that?
there is a very slim chance i pull with this place this year..
The hitch must be a "Reese"-style hitch mounted under the frame as to resemble a standard/factory hitch. The main cross bar of the hitch may not exceed 14 inches from the inside of the farthest point of the hook opening. The hook opening should be 3 3/4" to accommodate the new sled hooks and the "Reece" style hitch crossbar should not exceed 14" from the inside rear point of the hook opening or 10 1/4 inches from front of the hook opening. Trick hitches are prohibited. The hook point must be the rear most point on the vehicle. Roll pans are permitted. Hitch reinforcements are permitted and encouraged but all reinforcement must stay with in the confines of the Class 3 or 5 hitch. The hitch may be bolted or welded to the under side of the frame but as stated before, the reinforcements must stay with in the hitch when removed from the vehicle. The hitch must be horizontal to the ground and stationary in all directions. The hitch's height from the ground may not exceed 26 inches. The hooking point must have a minimum of 3 1/2 inch inside diameter opening for the new size sled hooks. Final decisions rest with the tech department.
my thought was to make another bolt on hitch if do
I have it sitting between frame rails right now, nd to top of frame, but I can not get drill in the C channel to drill it.. So i was going to weld the receiver in place? Any thoughts about that?
there is a very slim chance i pull with this place this year..
The hitch must be a "Reese"-style hitch mounted under the frame as to resemble a standard/factory hitch. The main cross bar of the hitch may not exceed 14 inches from the inside of the farthest point of the hook opening. The hook opening should be 3 3/4" to accommodate the new sled hooks and the "Reece" style hitch crossbar should not exceed 14" from the inside rear point of the hook opening or 10 1/4 inches from front of the hook opening. Trick hitches are prohibited. The hook point must be the rear most point on the vehicle. Roll pans are permitted. Hitch reinforcements are permitted and encouraged but all reinforcement must stay with in the confines of the Class 3 or 5 hitch. The hitch may be bolted or welded to the under side of the frame but as stated before, the reinforcements must stay with in the hitch when removed from the vehicle. The hitch must be horizontal to the ground and stationary in all directions. The hitch's height from the ground may not exceed 26 inches. The hooking point must have a minimum of 3 1/2 inch inside diameter opening for the new size sled hooks. Final decisions rest with the tech department.
my thought was to make another bolt on hitch if do
Last edited:
cuminstrkmydmax
New member
- Joined
- May 16, 2009
- Messages
- 243
Why doesnt your hitch between the frame rails meet the rule that you specified? My taking on ''Reese" style is that you have a tube and an insert that is pinned into place. Whether its below the rails, or inside the rails i dont think that i matters- just my thoughts tho. GOOD LUCK Steven
house
the Fat kid!
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2006
- Messages
- 3,783
posted the wrong one, now its corrected
Welding it in is not a big deal just harder to get it out. I know it sounds like a lot of work but take the box off and you will have a much easier time setting it all up, believe me! Make sure the receiver is beefy, there is a ton of stress put on that thing.
ILLINOISRAM
INLINE INSANITY
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2008
- Messages
- 2,891
House, it took me 10 min to get the bed off the truck. Deffinantly the way to work on this stuff. 4 bolts a ground strap and your light plugs. And the screws for the fillerneck.
ILLINOISRAM
INLINE INSANITY
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2008
- Messages
- 2,891
ILLINOISRAM
INLINE INSANITY
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2008
- Messages
- 2,891
nadm 2.8 hitch rules
Hitch: The hitch must be a receiver-style hitch; reinforcements are permitted. Reinforcements must not extend forward of the centerline of the rear axle. Trick hitches are prohibited. The hooking point must be the rear-most point on the vehicle and must be rearward of the stock location of the tailgate. The hitch must be horizontal to the ground and stationary in all directions. Bumpers may be notched or removed. The hitch’s height from the ground may not exceed 26 inches on 4wd units and 30 inches on 2wd units. The hooking point must have a minimum 3.750-inch inside diameter opening for the sled hook. The hooking point will be measured to the center of the clevis loop.
If the pictures were better, it is a reese style hitch as it uses a reciever tube and a insert which i bought from a compd sponser PullingProducts.com. It will have a pin just like a factory reciever and will be interchangable. It says that reinforcments must not extend past the centerline of the axle which it does not unless you count the side plates since it was a b&w turnoverball and the front bolt is past the axle centerline and if that is a problem i can cut the brackets and drill a couple of new holes. Hitch height will be adjustable with 1" all thread and at 26" height will be horizontal to the ground. In the picture it does not have the adjusters in so it is angling down plus i plan on dropping the rear of the truck down to make it set level too. The hook point will be the rear most point of the truck and meet the 3.75 in inside diameter.
Thats what we are supposed to do right? Read the rules and push them to the limit but dont go over. Do you not think it will work or is it too much of the gray area? I dont think it qualifies as a trick hitch since when i set the height, thats were it will stay. Plus its all bolt in. I can unbolt it and remove it from the truck to bolt the factory reese hitch back up and put the bumper back on.
Now i really highjacked you thread House.:bang
Tim
Hitch: The hitch must be a receiver-style hitch; reinforcements are permitted. Reinforcements must not extend forward of the centerline of the rear axle. Trick hitches are prohibited. The hooking point must be the rear-most point on the vehicle and must be rearward of the stock location of the tailgate. The hitch must be horizontal to the ground and stationary in all directions. Bumpers may be notched or removed. The hitch’s height from the ground may not exceed 26 inches on 4wd units and 30 inches on 2wd units. The hooking point must have a minimum 3.750-inch inside diameter opening for the sled hook. The hooking point will be measured to the center of the clevis loop.
If the pictures were better, it is a reese style hitch as it uses a reciever tube and a insert which i bought from a compd sponser PullingProducts.com. It will have a pin just like a factory reciever and will be interchangable. It says that reinforcments must not extend past the centerline of the axle which it does not unless you count the side plates since it was a b&w turnoverball and the front bolt is past the axle centerline and if that is a problem i can cut the brackets and drill a couple of new holes. Hitch height will be adjustable with 1" all thread and at 26" height will be horizontal to the ground. In the picture it does not have the adjusters in so it is angling down plus i plan on dropping the rear of the truck down to make it set level too. The hook point will be the rear most point of the truck and meet the 3.75 in inside diameter.
Thats what we are supposed to do right? Read the rules and push them to the limit but dont go over. Do you not think it will work or is it too much of the gray area? I dont think it qualifies as a trick hitch since when i set the height, thats were it will stay. Plus its all bolt in. I can unbolt it and remove it from the truck to bolt the factory reese hitch back up and put the bumper back on.
Now i really highjacked you thread House.:bang
Tim
ILLINOISRAM
INLINE INSANITY
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2008
- Messages
- 2,891
Really i brush pull county fairs 90% of the time. So i am trying to build my truck for a run what ya brung style class but also be able to make it fit the 2.8 sanction rules also. Its hard to do it all but im trying. LOL
Tim
Tim