Replacing the T case output bushing

D

Dbordenb

New member
Joined
May 15, 2014
Messages
133
I am planning to replace the transfer case slip yoke bushing and output seal because I am putting on a new slip yoke. From what I understand all I need to do is remove the rear extension housing, push out the old bushing, put the new bushing in, and then put on the new output seal. Does that sound about right and how will I be able to tell when the new bushing is in the correct location?

I just want to make sure I have all the information before I dive into this.

Thanks,
David
 
09b24dd5de84cb7392c42e6aa2910f1c.jpg

What bushing are you wanting to replace? This is with tailhousing off and the pump removed on a np271


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yes I believe so I didn't replace mine. Once you remove output seal I believe you can see it. Use a dead blow hammer to knock the extension housing loose from the rear case half. Don't use a regular hammer. I didn't pay much attention to extension housing because I changed out the input shaft. Hope this helps you out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yes thank you that does help. How hard is it to get the extension housing back on?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I would also like to know the answer to that as well. Is ATF +4 the correct fluid?

Also, I can't find a tool to press out the bushing. Will a socket work for this job?
 
To get it back on is pretty easy just slide it in and line up bolt holes. I used black rtv to seal it up. Just clean both mating surfaces up well before putting on fresh rtv. For fluid atf+4 is the fluid it comes factory with. I run valvoline dex/merc in the blue gallon jugs in my 48re and the t/case. For bushing replacement I couldn't tell you how hard it is to remove. You can probably drive it out with a socket that barely grabs to outer lip of bushing and drive new one back in. If not use a press if you can't get it with a hammer and socket.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I was hoping someone would come in here and give advice. I'll be needing to do this at some point. My question is, does anyone put anything on the bushings to hold them (green loctite) or is the interference fir good enough?

And what do you guys do for removing the seal. I've done mine twice in 300k and it's always a nightmare. I even chipped a tiny chunk of aluminum off last time...
 
On the bushing, throw it,in the freezer for a few hours, and warm,up tailshaft housing to about 200dg, or a little cooler. The busing will fall through, so you will need to hold it in place until it warms up and becomes an i,terference fit.
 
crackerman said:
On the bushing, throw it,in the freezer for a few hours, and warm,up tailshaft housing to about 200dg, or a little cooler. The busing will fall through, so you will need to hold it in place until it warms up and becomes an i,terference fit.
Click to expand...



Is the correct location for the bushing obvious? I haven't taken the tail shaft housing off yet to see what it looks like.
 
CorneliusRox said:
I was hoping someone would come in here and give advice. I'll be needing to do this at some point. My question is, does anyone put anything on the bushings to hold them (green loctite) or is the interference fir good enough?

And what do you guys do for removing the seal. I've done mine twice in 300k and it's always a nightmare. I even chipped a tiny chunk of aluminum off last time...
Click to expand...



For removing the output seal I use a thin flat head screwdriver and hammer it between the seal and housing. Once I get it in on one side I typically hit it in and crush it a little then work my way around. There is 2 slots in extension housing that allow you to get under seal better without hurting the aluminum. I'll try to find a picture of the slots for you


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Breedsrt said:
For removing the output seal I use a thin flat head screwdriver and hammer it between the seal and housing. Once I get it in on one side I typically hit it in and crush it a little then work my way around. There is 2 slots in extension housing that allow you to get under seal better without hurting the aluminum. I'll try to find a picture of the slots for you


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...



885eef7f29b01c8dc9bb607ca4fd20e0.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Breedsrt said:
For removing the output seal I use a thin flat head screwdriver and hammer it between the seal and housing. Once I get it in on one side I typically hit it in and crush it a little then work my way around. There is 2 slots in extension housing that allow you to get under seal better without hurting the aluminum. I'll try to find a picture of the slots for you


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info! I've never noticed them, but I'll be trying that next time.
 
I have been putting this job off and I am wondering if it would be better for me to just take it to a driveline shop.

The u-joints need replaced but the previous owner of the truck messed up the slip yoke. I ordered new spicer u-joints, a slip yoke, extension housing bushing, and new extension housing dust boot. I like working on the pickup and learning as I go but I've read mixed reviews on doing u-joints or having a shop do it. Any recommendations for a noobie?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top