Rockwell rear and front...

Yellow Jacket

Yellow Jacket

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May 23, 2009
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I was wondering if the 3.0 trucks are getting away with running F106 rears? The ring gear is only 12.25 or 12.5 inches....I didn't know if the torque would destroy the F106 rears.

Also, should I just make the jump to a F106 front? Or, can a Dana 60 be built with good inner and outter shafts and a spool or detroit locker to hold that kind of power?
 
Yellow Jacket said:
I was wondering if the 3.0 trucks are getting away with running F106 rears? The ring gear is only 12.25 or 12.5 inches....I didn't know if the torque would destroy the F106 rears.

Also, should I just make the jump to a F106 front? Or, can a Dana 60 be built with good inner and outter shafts and a spool or detroit locker to hold that kind of power?
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I think you should be just fine with a rear F106 as most of the Mods in the past have run them and are now jumping up to SQHD's, 172's or larger when building tube frames and what not. When most where stock frames alot where just 106's and they where putting out more torque than a single 3"

As far as the front axle...I think the D60 will work just fine for you. In a Chevy I would jump up to a king-pinned vintage Chevy or Dodge D60 unit and run an ARB with 35spline shafts inner and outer with a driver plate to ditch the locking hubs. Should have more than enough strength for anything you can throw at it.

Lets hear what others think!

RyanB
 
I'm thinking Ryan is right but have zero basis other than reading online and looking under trucks when I get a chance... Would something bigger than the D60 be better? sure. is it necessary for a 3.0 truck. I'm kinda doubting it. Especially with some aftermarket 35 spline shafts throught, a locker in the diff and drive flanges on the ends... It sure as heck should be bit easier to make work correctly and be a good bit cheaper I'd imagine. The big front ends are high dollar pieces from what I've found.

Whatcha gonna do for transmission and transfer case? Assuming this is for the dmax in your avatar?


C-ya
 
Why not put Tony Bs spool and 38 spline axles in the 11.5 ? Or is this another project?
 
F106's are good. The SQHD replacement parts are just as good but much cheaper when replacing parts. The 60 will be just fine as well.
 
x2... for example, a USED set of Tony's shafts and spool are in the classifieds for $2400. That'll go a looong way towards a big rearend even if you get the fancy hubs and SCS pieces to go in them. Then you pretty much have a blow proof rearend.
 
I don't see any reason to change axles and things in the rockwell until they break. Doubtful you will even break them. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Spend about $750 on an f106 thats ready to weld in. Get your driveshafts all taken care of and be done.
 
SmokeShow said:
I'm thinking Ryan is right but have zero basis other than reading online and looking under trucks when I get a chance... Would something bigger than the D60 be better? sure. is it necessary for a 3.0 truck. I'm kinda doubting it. Especially with some aftermarket 35 spline shafts throught, a locker in the diff and drive flanges on the ends... It sure as heck should be bit easier to make work correctly and be a good bit cheaper I'd imagine. The big front ends are high dollar pieces from what I've found.

Whatcha gonna do for transmission and transfer case? Assuming this is for the dmax in your avatar?


C-ya
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Ben46a said:
Why not put Tony Bs spool and 38 spline axles in the 11.5 ? Or is this another project?
Click to expand...

I have a drop box reverser already spoken for, and I am gonna start pricing a 4 disc clutch and can setup for it to go with the reverser. I would love to put this in the truck in my avatar, but I think I will be using an older Chevy chassis and body....And will most likely give up some wheel base to do so.

I already have Tony B. spool and axles in the truck in my avatar. I have twins on it also, but when I dual it up the transfer case output shaft, transfer case slip yoke, rearend yoke, and u-joints don't want to last.....But the spool and axles have been bulletproof.
 
I guess if you have the bucks go for the blow proof can and 4 disc clutch. 3 disc is plenty though.
 
Yellow Jacket, you sticking with a Dmax in the older GM or a Cummins? Got any pics of said truck?


C-ya
 
Anyone had trouble with breaking the rivets that couple the ring gear to the carrier on the rockwells? I broke those years ago in my prostock 4x4 gasser! I would think if a 800HP gasser can break'em a good running diesel would to!
 
brushpuller said:
Anyone had trouble with breaking the rivets that couple the ring gear to the carrier on the rockwells? I broke those years ago in my prostock 4x4 gasser! I would think if a 800HP gasser can break'em a good running diesel would to!
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Replace them with bolts!
 
zstroken said:
Replace them with bolts!
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We picked one up the other week and havn't got to tearing it down yet but how much of a pain is it to get the stock ones out. Can they be pressed out or do you have to drill them???
 
Easiest is to take it to a machine shop and have them machined off, or spend 2+hrs with a air hammer chiseling them off
 
SmokeShow said:
x2... for example, a USED set of Tony's shafts and spool are in the classifieds for $2400. That'll go a looong way towards a big rearend even if you get the fancy hubs and SCS pieces to go in them. Then you pretty much have a blow proof rearend.
Click to expand...

Exactly. Tony's piece work very well, but if a 1 ton or less axle isn't required, there are stronger and cheaper routes.
 
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