Shotpeen CR rods??

I was going to use custom rods in my 6.7 untill i faxed a dyno sheet to someone. He looked at it and said the p-pump wasn't pulling anywhere near as hard on the bottom and I would be fine with stock rods. I went ahead and got a set of 12V rods to use instead for good measure. I guess it's got built in torque control.
 
RonA said:
I was going to use custom rods in my 6.7 untill i faxed a dyno sheet to someone. He looked at it and said the p-pump wasn't pulling anywhere near as hard on the bottom and I would be fine with stock rods. I went ahead and got a set of 12V rods to use instead for good measure. I guess it's got built in torque control.
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Ron, building a engine combo based on a dyno sheet is a bad idea. Dyno's dont nearly or accuratly duplicate what happens under full boost and load. it will only give you a peak # thats good for reference, thats about it. the track seems to out shine the dyno on all occasions in my book.

12v rods were a good choice no matter how you slice it, but the older rods are alot heavyer each compared to the CR rods.

BTW nitrous will help the bottom end power too:rockwoot:
 
DIESEL_POWER said:
Ron, building a engine combo based on a dyno sheet is a bad idea. Dyno's dont nearly or accuratly duplicate what happens under full boost and load. it will only give you a peak # thats good for reference, thats about it. the track seems to out shine the dyno on all occasions in my book.

12v rods were a good choice no matter how you slice it, but the older rods are alot heavyer each compared to the CR rods.

BTW nitrous will help the bottom end power too:rockwoot:
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My dyno sheets merely illustrate what my backside tells me about how my power delivery is. More linear and a shallower angle on the readout was the goal. It acts the same way at the track or on the road. Nitrous is for when you run out of ideas.:hehe:
 
Whats everyones opinion on beveling the pistons? My 03 has beveled and coated pistons from Industrial, and I will have them coated for this build. Is beveling the outer edge of the crown needed?

Industrial said that they bevel them to prevent contact with the cylinder wall when the piston heats up and expands. Machine shop says it could cause a dead area where fuel can just sit. I realize its a very small area, just wondering if beveling is needed or not.

The 03 smokes white until it warms up, only when you accelerate. After the machine shop said that, it popped in my head that that could be part of it. I'm not engineer though...
 
Taper between the top land & crown is SOP to accomodate expansion, and crevice volume is mostly an issue for emissions compliance.
 
He mentioned emissions. I may just go ahead and have him do it. Its been awhile since I saw one; hopefully he knows how much to take off
 
No need to do that to your piston, run it as it is, a coating would be far more of a bennifit.
 
XLR8R said:
Taper between the top land & crown is SOP to accomodate expansion, and crevice volume is mostly an issue for emissions compliance.
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'strokeThis_'07 said:
He mentioned emissions. I may just go ahead and have him do it. Its been awhile since I saw one; hopefully he knows how much to take off
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AHH! I see what your saying. Took me all day for it to click, but I got ya now. The taper thats already in the piston, unbeveled. Stock. 10-4.

It'll save some money and time not doing it. Maybe I'll skip it.

Thanks fellas
 
Yes, and if emissions aren't a build priority, lower top ring lands (and their accompanying larger crevice volume) will allow more power production and abuse.:Cheer:
 
'strokeThis_'07 said:
Whats everyones opinion on beveling the pistons? My 03 has beveled and coated pistons from Industrial, and I will have them coated for this build. Is beveling the outer edge of the crown needed?

Industrial said that they bevel them to prevent contact with the cylinder wall when the piston heats up and expands. Machine shop says it could cause a dead area where fuel can just sit. I realize its a very small area, just wondering if beveling is needed or not.

The 03 smokes white until it warms up, only when you accelerate. After the machine shop said that, it popped in my head that that could be part of it. I'm not engineer though...
Click to expand...

The pistons I have done I always radius the sharp corners so they wont create hot spots that might start them melting I also coat the tops. Check out my website and take a look. bnbtooling.com
 
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