Sitting Too Long

Red Sleeper

Red Sleeper

Active member
My 05 CR has been sitting in the shop for over 2 years without being run while I work on it when time allows. :doh: I installed a new cam, push rods, springs, injectors, did some trans work, axle work, trans cooler, other misc work.

For an engine that's sat this long, what should I consider upon first fire??

Plan to unplug injectors and crank until I see oil pressure. Plug in injectors, run for couple minutes, change oil. Break in cam without coolant in engine, change oil, add coolant, check for leaks everywhere.

Diesel in the tank has been treated, but is 2 year old.
 
I'd be more worried with the fuel side than the engine oil side.

Priming the engine oil pressure before cranking on that truck in my opinion is a waist of time.
 
jasonc said:
I'd be more worried with the fuel side than the engine oil side.

Priming the engine oil pressure before cranking on that truck in my opinion is a waist of time.
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So just pump out the fuel and pour in some fresh stuff? Turn the key and let it fire up?
 
I would pre-lube it without question. If it hadn't been opened up, would probably be a little less concerned, but not much.
 
everything you installed is either dry or lubed from you installing it...cranking it wont hurt before lighting it but probly dont matter...engines sit for 40 yrs and light em up!
 
Red Sleeper said:
My 05 CR has been sitting in the shop for over 2 years without being run while I work on it when time allows. :doh: I installed a new cam, push rods, springs, injectors, did some trans work, axle work, trans cooler, other misc work.

For an engine that's sat this long, what should I consider upon first fire??

Plan to unplug injectors and crank until I see oil pressure. Plug in injectors, run for couple minutes, change oil. Break in cam without coolant in engine, change oil, add coolant, check for leaks everywhere.

Diesel in the tank has been treated, but is 2 year old.
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The only time I've ever had a problem was if the engine's fuel system had a rack somewhere. Things in the fuel system varnish and seize tight. After the first time that happened(things got ugly fast!)I've always popped the intake tube off first and had a plate ready. You shouldn't have that problem at all though.
 
Preparing to pump the full tank of fuel out of this truck. Dusted off the shop manual, and I’m questioning myself.
Looks like I need to jumper #30 to #87 on the fuel pump relay. But the description at top of the page says NGC. Im unsure what that is referring to and would rather not mess up my fuse box.

Truck is a 2005 common rail

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Next Generation Controller (NGC)
A powertrain controller consolidating both engine and automatic transmission controllers into one component. Designed by Chrysler engineers, it provides better coordination between engine and transmission functions for excellent performance.
The electronic architecture is substantially different from previous Chrysler controllers and is designed to expand technical capabilities in the future.
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It basically links the ECM and the tranny so that everything the tranny does is based off the engine.
 
Thanks Scott.

Found the answer to my own question on the relay. Jumper pin 30 to 87.

Headed to buy 10 gallons of fresh #2 and hopefully start this evening.

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Truck fired right up and sounds completely different, a good different. I plumbed in a mechanical oil pressure gauge for safety measures before first fire.
Hung on the starter a few times, plugged in injectors, and fired up.

Change oil tomorrow, break in cam, change oil again, wash 2 years of dust off, drive to get inspected.
 
Drove the truck down the street, heard a terrible noise when letting off the accelerator and coasting. Slid under and grabbed the rear pinion and had slop. I did replace the rear pinion seal, but maybe forgot to fully tighten the nut?? Who freaking knows, it was 2 years ago.
Tightened the nut, still leaks fluid. New National brand seal purchased to install today.

Spoke to local drive line shop today explaining my concerns. Old guy there said the AAM crush sleeve is almost impossible to crush with only a 3/4" drive breaker bar. I was worried I would over tighten the crush sleeve and don't have time or patients right now to pull carrier and do it correctly. He advised to replace the seal, tighten nut until I physically can't move it with a breaker bar, test drive and check for leak.

I had forgotten the truck has an old smarty tune on it. With the rebuild injectors, it now runs smooth but I feel a roughness in the engine. Hoping some HP Tuning will solve that and rid the throttle hang.
 
I would bump on that pinion nut with an impact, and feel for bearing slop, then keep bumping it until all the play is gone, but still turns over easy.

Those crush caulers are impossible to crush with a breaker bar new, but once they have been folded over, they mash in rather easy.
 
Swapped the pinion seal and test drove a couple miles, no leak. I hammered on the pinion nut a while with my 1/2” air impact with only a single stage compressor (115psi). Seemed to take the slop out, and I did tighten the pinion nut past the original location according to my marks on the nut and pinion.

I used a national brand seal. From past experience, others will leak.

I can finally clean the area where the truck has been for 2+ years. A wash job is in order, maybe tomorrow. And clean out the bed, it’s been a catch all for crap. Hang bumper and front drive shaft.

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Front air dam painted black. Forgot to paint it when I repainted the truck few years back. Washed it and new ceramic tint went on yesterday. Now have to wash again from soapy water streaks down the doors. It’s worth it, tint looks great. Paint needs wax. Might try a ceramic wax I picked up.

Should have a trailer behind it tomorrow morning, ready to work.
 
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First day back at work. The engine definitely runs and burns cleaner when feeding heavy on the throttle. Combination of fresh injectors and the cam likely the result of a cleaner burn. Sure am glad I did the cam swap.
Now for tuning.
 
After 2,000 miles of driving, I had what seems to be a hung injector or two. This was a rebuilt set from a local and reputable diesel injector service company. It sounded like a ball bearing was bouncing around inside a couple cylinders. I did drive the truck about 200 miles before getting home and able to swap over my spare set of injectors. Now the truck runs normal.

I was considering dropping them off at the same company I bought them from, but I'm skeptical of even letting them test the set.

Called DDP last Friday about my options. Decided to send them the bad set for testing, then go to the original rebuilder with the test reports.

Probably typical for many members on here, but this will end up being a $5k injector scenario with all the shipping and testing. Guess I should be thankful my engine is still okay.
 
I almost mentioned something on the injectors but couldn't tell their condition based off your posts. You will be happy with what you get back from DDP. That's all I have used for the last 2 years and have had great success on probably a half dozen sets or more. You'll be even happier with how the truck runs after having a new or reman set from them.
 
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