slipper clutch

SMOKIN-U

SMOKIN-U

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who makes them and will they fit in a nv5600? looking for one but not totally for sure if they will even work in a regular trans or you have to have a drop box. If someone does make them were could a guy find one and about how much do they cost?
 
centrifugal i believe.. whatever it is that pushes your foot off the pedel as the rpm's come up and you have to adjust that with changing weights out
 
There are a variety of weighted clutches:

Crower, Haisley, Valair, Kenny's,...

I don't know about the Crower clutches fitting in front of a stock trans, but the others will.
 
well found out the crower wont fit in the stock bell housing. The kennys will but its not a full glide it has spring pressure with a few weights. interesting.. thanks for the info guys
 
Crower will fit. I've done it, takes some work but they are a nice clutch. I have one sitting on the shelf i ran a few years ago that needs a new home.

Ted
 
I am quite confused by your question.....I take it you are looking for a pedal clutch that engages by centrifigul force...if thats the case the common Haisleys Comp puller clutch is all you need. My old one would start lifting me out of the seat at 2500rpm and it was all I could do to hold it at 5500!
In the pulling world you are typically going to see two different style of slippers...Pedal and one without a pedal. Both are similar in design but the pedal clutch will let you bring the RPM up to where ever you want it and be able to slip it real nice out of the hole. The one without the pedal is more like an "automatic" if you can think of it that way....you put it in gear and the truck/tractor doesn't move...raise the rpm up slowly and all of a sudden at say 3000rpm you will start moving and there is a very fine variable between full lock and un-locked. They work great in the big gasser classes and I know a few pro-stock tractors running them but they are hard to set up when running a turbo and having different tracks/weather conditions every pull/run. There are a few Modified Diesels though I believe running them though. I forget what Scott runs (BBD)

just wondering why a crower wouldn't fit in the stock bellhousing.. The stock cummins flywheel is HUGE in dia compared to that of your typlical crower clutch (10.5" on average with a Chevy flywheel) The only thing I can see causing an issue is the distance it comes out from the flywheel as clearance there might be an issue.
 
The issue is that the diameter of the pp on the crowed. It hits some of the webbing in the bellhousing but that is easily fixed. A 3 disk will go in just fine.

Ted
 
p-pumped said:
The issue is that the diameter of the pp on the crowed. It hits some of the webbing in the bellhousing but that is easily fixed. A 3 disk will go in just fine.

Ted
Click to expand...


Which one did you run in the NV5600 i bought from you a few years back? I know the webbing is clearanced, and there is an access hole that was welded back up. This winter I plan on stepping up my clutch, not sure whether I want a simple weighted DD from haisley, or if I will go with something bigger.
 
Well the guy I talked to out there said he didn't think the 3 disk would fit front to back. I don't know enough about them to know if it would work or not. After hearing that don't think I'd like the one that's like an auto just something that I could slip real good coming out of the hole and would start to push my foot off at a certain rpm. From what people told me I'd need more than the standard off the shelf 2 or 3 disk clutch from like southbend ect.
 
I've seen a Haisley comp puller (weighted double disk) go 120+ hooks in a 3.0/unlimited single truck before being rebuilt. The key is getting the weight set up properly and knowing when to adjust the shims to make sure it does not slip and you will get a long life from it.
 
thats all i need then. so it would come with all the weights i would need to make adjustments?
 
the weights are what determines the RPM it will start pushing on you and they stay the same throughout once you figure out how many it wants..... The shimming is what gets taken out to account for loss of disc thickness as the clutch wears.
 
Theres also 2 types of clutch grades soft and hard , the hard ones last along time but a little more hard to drive if needed compared to the softer ones
 
I am pretty sure almost all the mods are running one of these.

IMO you would be stupid to run these in a stock bell housing, you better have it in a blow proof can!!!!


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BBD
 
thats no kidding, if that clutch blew up......hope you're good at walking with no legs LOL
 
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