Spray-on rust preventative

Begle1

Active member
My roof just started getting rust in the typical first gen place so I found who seems like a good body guy to fix it. (Said it'd be $1800.)

Anyways, I imported my truck to the island last year, been wondering how I want to rust proof the thing. No visible rust on the body panels currently. But in the salty air I know it's coming.

He recommend the standard spray-on sticky undercarriage stuff.

Is it worth having him spray that junk on? He said it's the best. "Goes on soft enough that you can move it out of the way to put a socket on a bolt, but sticky enough to stay in place."

Being from California and hating any sort of cosmetic work I know nothing about rust, is this what I want to do?
 
Depends on what exactly it is, but sounds like Fluid Film or Woolwax. I've used Fluid Film with great luck. In your area with no snow season / road salt one application would last more than a few years
 
I imagine he's selling me on the slightly-runny-tar-like stuff that dealerships spray on.

Is that Fluid Film? I thought Fluid Film was more like a sticky WD40.

I've never heard of WoolWax.

Is it bone-dead simply to apply this stuff? He said what he does is spend several hours masking everything and then a few minutes spraying on the under-coating. If I could get the same results by spraying a less sticky product on just my sheet metal, I'd rather do that.
 
We always had great luck spraying old ag equipment with a mixture or motor oil and diesel fuel.

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Are you driving on the beach, or sandy areas alot?
never been to Hawaii, so don't know what daily driving is there.
 
I imagine he's selling me on the slightly-runny-tar-like stuff that dealerships spray on.

Is that Fluid Film? I thought Fluid Film was more like a sticky WD40.

I've never heard of WoolWax.

Is it bone-dead simply to apply this stuff? He said what he does is spend several hours masking everything and then a few minutes spraying on the under-coating. If I could get the same results by spraying a less sticky product on just my sheet metal, I'd rather do that.

The stuff dealerships use might be Ziebart or something petroleum based. Fluid Film and Woolwax is Lanolin based (hence the wool wax name). Woolwax is just a tad thicker than the FF. I've never masked off a vehicle when spraying one with FF, if it gets on the paint just give it a good wash down. I buy the product in a bucket then use a compressed air sprayer to apply it
 
The stuff dealerships use might be Ziebart or something petroleum based. Fluid Film and Woolwax is Lanolin based (hence the wool wax name). Woolwax is just a tad thicker than the FF. I've never masked off a vehicle when spraying one with FF, if it gets on the paint just give it a good wash down. I buy the product in a bucket then use a compressed air sprayer to apply it

We do the same thing at work with Fluid Film. I buy it by the 5 gallon bucket, and we spray the underside of 20 trucks yearly. We don't mask off a thing, like stated above if it gets on any place you don't want it just wash/wipe it off.
 
Are you driving on the beach, or sandy areas alot?
never been to Hawaii, so don't know what daily driving is there.

No beach or sand, but there's salt in the air and the ocean is eating the highway on part of the island so there's brine splash there. (I try to not drive on that highway.)

I'll self-apply the FluidFilm or Woolwax stuff, doesn't sound like rocket science.

Does it work in cavities as well, like inside of the space between the bed walls? Can I take off the tail lights and spray in all up in there?
 
If you buy the sprayer from fluid film it comes with different ones and tips to be able to insert inside frame rails and inside body panels.
 
Fluid Film / Woolwax does an excellent job creeping into places not directly hit with a sprayer. If your truck has never been treated, I'd plan on using at least a gallon, I'd pull lights and all body plugs when doing an application for the first time
 
So I sprayed Fluid Film yesterday, using the Made in Italy gun that came with the kit.

I found that I had to hold the bottle upside-down or gangsta style to get the film to spray consistently heavy. How thick do you guys put it on?
Am I aiming for "I can see the metal got a darkened"-thick or "I can see brown oil all over the metal"-thick?

Judging by everybody telling me to use at least a gallon, that seems like it'd be applied on the heavy side.
 
What psi are you spraying at? And how do you have the nozzle adjusted. I wanna say the gun that came with mine was called a schutz gun
 
Has anyone ever tried or used cosmoline as rust prevention? Or is it essentially the same stuff as FF?

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What psi are you spraying at? And how do you have the nozzle adjusted. I wanna say the gun that came with mine was called a schutz gun

90 psi. It didn't seem to suck hard enough out of the bottle at 60.

Nozzle about 3 threads in.

Pictures of my gun are attached.
 

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My spray gun is made by Kelsport. If yours is of similar design, it's missing the brass nozzle judging by your pictures. Without the brass nozzle on the end it won't pull a vacuum to draw it from the bottle

Or did you remove the nozzle prior to the picture?
 
My spray gun is made by Kelsport. If yours is of similar design, it's missing the brass nozzle judging by your pictures. Without the brass nozzle on the end it won't pull a vacuum to draw it from the bottle

Or did you remove the nozzle prior to the picture?

Sounds like there are at least three guns out there then.

I imagine a typical off-the-shelf paint sprayer isn't going to work too well with this peanut butter stuff? Or is there some other application for these guns?

I took the long floppy wand off, with the brass nozzle, :redx:when I stored it.
 
Do you have a picture facing in the end where the nozzle goes?

I've had good luck thinning it with WD-40 when it's cold out, or you can try to let the can bake out in the sun for a while. Did you stir it up plenty? My 5gal bucket settles pretty bad when I heat it up
 
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