Squeak from front end - driver side

machineman

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May 16, 2013
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I have this squeak coming from the driver side wheel area. It is speed sensitive. Meaning the frequency of the squeak increases as the speed increases. It only happens when the wheels are turned and you can feel oscillation in the steering wheel. I had to replace this side front axle shortly after I purchased the truck. The passenger side axle had the u joints replaced at the same time. I have put approximately 40K miles on the truck since then (July 2010). I am leaning toward the u joints being shot but wanted some others input on things to check out. The truck will be parked all weekend. I will have to look at it further next week. Any help is appreciated.
 
Was able to tear the driver side apart today at lunch. Not good.....ball joints have about .09 in play vertically and the axle u joints are stiff and tight as heck. Not what I was hoping for but not all that unexpected, at least not on the ball joint side. Will order new upper and lower ball joint and drop the axle off at Fleet Pride tomorrow. At least the wheel hub assembly felt good (knocks on wood). Get this side wrapped up and will do the passenger side as well. I am sure those ball joints are shot too. Let's hope it didn't take out those u joints too.
 
at the mileage that you have..

if those are original parts you got good life out of them... cheap insurance would be to swap out the u joints on the front diff, and while you are at it, check the front shaft for too much up and down play in it...
 
Sounds like the axle u-joints to me as well. But as you also mentioned, not a bad idea to replace the ball joints while you're in there. Consider filling the unit bearing assemblies with grease before you install the wheel speed sensor for the ABS. Just to keep them happy.
 
at the mileage that you have..

if those are original parts you got good life out of them... cheap insurance would be to swap out the u joints on the front diff, and while you are at it, check the front shaft for too much up and down play in it...

Sounds like the axle u-joints to me as well. But as you also mentioned, not a bad idea to replace the ball joints while you're in there. Consider filling the unit bearing assemblies with grease before you install the wheel speed sensor for the ABS. Just to keep them happy.

As far as I know the ball joints could be original. I haven't changed them. The front axle u joints on the passenger side were replaced in July 2010. That is the same time I had to replace the driver side front axle. Once I get the driver side completed, I will order the parts and do the passenger side. It will probably be a week or so before I can do that.

Thanks for the tip about greasing the wheel sensor for the ABS. Any specific grease I should use?

Thanks for the replies.
 
Upper ball joint was completely shot. I ended up pushing the stud through the top of the ball joint. Any tricks on how to get the ball joint out? I am using a piece of 1 1/2 4140 tool steel as a driver to push the rest of the joint out but so far no luck. If anyone has any other tricks, that would be great.
 
Turned up a new lower pusher block (1.645 diameter x .75) and put pressure on the joint. Got the propane torch and heated up the outside ear of the knuckle. Heated it up for about 10 minutes. Grabbed a piece of 2.5 diameter bar stock x 36 long and wacked the ear. The joint broke free and pushed right out.

Thanks for the hints and tips!

I will try to get some pics of the upper ball joint. There is nothing inside except dirt and rust. Now that I know how to get these out, the job really isn't that hard. I also cleaned up the hub assembly and the piece it mates into. Got all the rust out and it is a nice fit. Will be sure to anti sieze the crap out of everything on reassembly.
 
Yeah, sometimes the ball joints play nice and other times... They're just too damn stubborn. I was going to suggest some heat and a BFH. I had to use some persuasion on my grandpa's '02 Dodge when trying to get the OEM ball joints out. A torch, sledge and a 1" dia. stainless steel punch eventually worked.

Be sure to check the inner surfaces of the ball joint sockets for any burrs that might make installing the new ones a pain as well. Hopefully you got some greaseable ball joints to replace the old ones with. Since you found out what happens to them when they aren't and can't be lubed.
 
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Yeah, sometimes the ball joints play nice and other times... They're just too damn stubborn. I was going to suggest some heat and a BFH. I had to use some persuasion on my grandpa's '02 Dodge when trying to get the OEM ball joints out. A torch, sledge and a 1" dia. stainless steel punch eventually worked.

Be sure to check the inner surfaces of the ball joint sockets for any burrs that might make installing the new ones a pain as well. Hopefully you got some greaseable ball joints to replace the old ones with. Since you found out what happens to them when they aren't and can't be lubed.

Yea, I checked the bores and they need a little work. Not much but also not anything some polishing stones can't handle. And yes, the new ones are greaseable!

I spent an hour cleaning the hub assembly and the hub bracket. They slide together now. Liberal amounts of never seize will be used on reassembly.
 
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Got everything back together except a few things. After seeing the difference between the old joints and these new ones, can't wait to drive it and see how it feels. Never seized the crap out of everything so next time I have to take anything apart, it should be a breeze.
 
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