stainless steel fire rings on the street

3 years, 15k, normal driving and pulling heavy trailer, retorqued studs once. No problems as of yet.
 
I had them in my truck and have two years many drag racing passes, and sled pulls on them and as of june one melted CR. THey looked great when head was moved off block.
 
no bueno IMHO, honestly, never tried the SS rings, both setups i had for fire rings were mild steel i think, and they lasted a combined total of 40k miles. now i didn't have a groove cut in the block, that may have contributed to the problem, each time they were torqued properly, with a additonal retorqure after 10k miles, the last setup that i had, the #3 cylinder/ring blew so bad that once i got pulled over and shut it down, upon restart to try and move the truck, it pretty much hydrolocked it'self. when i got the head of, 1/3rd. of the ring had deteriorated, and cracked which explained the hydrolock on #3 piston. this time i went with orings that had .13 thousandths of protrusion, a new set of ARP 2000 series studs torqued to 130ft.lb. if your not making crazy boost, and or cylinder pressure, stick with orings,......IMHO

Wes
 
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Little late for that.

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I run allen head bolts torqed to 122#
 
Do o-rings require more retorque steps or am I wrong in saying that?
 
All you guys and your retorques!!!! If you can give me a good reason you need to do that im game....but ive never done a retorque personally on a fire or oring and ive never had a problem. Ive seen 70-90 of boost on oringd head stock gasket setups with the $400 arp studs. Its more of a "i wanna be sure" feeling than anything imo.
 
Well after doin a fresh gasket and seein ur valve lash move after a week of drivin then continue to see the same 2 or three times. then stop after the gasket has crushed properly into place is proof enough for me bud
 
yup, you can also index mark the nuts on the studs (or bolt heads) if you want. you'll see when the gasket is fully compressed
 
If you dont do atleast 1 retq on a fire ring setup you are just askin for trouble.
 
I usually do one hot retorque they always move but after that they never seem to so I stop after one
 
slight hi-jack, what do you guys recommend to hold rings in the head when setting on the block?
 
Mark that was mentioned in a different thread, most use superglue in two spots around the ring just to hold it in place.
 
We install the head and torque the bolts, then get the truck up to temp and let it cool off a couple times then retorque. They always turn about a 1/4 turn, then we tell the customer put 800-1000 miles on the truck and then we recommend they torque them again. Most will turn another 1/8th to 1/4 turn again.
 
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