Starting to like the new puller

I agree on the less fuel, but the 83x74 in a .90 your gonna see some drive pressure issues above 4200 or so.

So should he change to a 1.10 housing? I have the same turbine wheel/housing combo on my truck, but stock Ppump with bigger dv's/#0/5x.018s....about to do the same gear swap as Joe and wondering if maybe I should think about a bigger housing too?
 
The next thing to ask do you have the cam and the compressor have the bore to make power up there?
 
its a stock cam, i was going to add a drop in, but everyone I talk says not to since I plan to pull the motor in the winter
 
I'm not a sledpuller, but I would ditch the .90A/R and go bigger.

I have a 1.10 T4 if you wanted to try it...if it works I'd swap you for the .90...

Chris
 
s468 68/83/.90 is all i know trying to figure out why it snuffs at end,

you shouldn't be falling off that charger with that setup. If you are spinning some rpms, your drive pressures will be thru the roof as Dan said. (I have an ED ext gate with discharge pipe in the classifieds that I ran with that turb wheel and housing last year :poke: ) However, after I went to a larger housing it ran better than with the smaller housing and gate.

Also, not running enough timing will cause it to fall off a charger early too.
 
maller housing and gate.

Also, not running enough timing will cause it to fall off a charger early too.


That is odd, completely different than what I experienced. Around 32 degrees my truck would snuff about 32-3400, dropped it down to 28 and the thing would get below 3000 before it would snuff.
 
I would check DP then go from there.... IMO I wouldent get to wild with timing either.
Brandon
 
I am running a 475 with the same housing and ex wheel. It's an auto but I bring it up to about 4,000, boost and drive are 60 or 65 can't remember. stock cam and timing is only about 25, the lowest rpm I have seen so far is 3,000 before unlocking the converter but I think i could go a little lower.
 
That is odd, completely different than what I experienced. Around 32 degrees my truck would snuff about 32-3400, dropped it down to 28 and the thing would get below 3000 before it would snuff.

I think too high or too low will have this affect (I dunno, I've been wrong before). Last year I made some changes and forgot to bump my timing back up and pulled with it around 20 degrees. EGT's were HOT, flame was about like your avatar pic, drive pressure was thru the roof due to a .9 housing and small turbine wheel, and it fell off the charger at 3400 rpm.

Figured it out, bumped timing up 8 degrees and ran it the next weekend and didn't fall off the charger.
 
I think too high or too low will have this affect (I dunno, I've been wrong before). Last year I made some changes and forgot to bump my timing back up and pulled with it around 20 degrees. EGT's were HOT, flame was about like your avatar pic, drive pressure was thru the roof due to a .9 housing and small turbine wheel, and it fell off the charger at 3400 rpm.

Figured it out, bumped timing up 8 degrees and ran it the next weekend and didn't fall off the charger.

I will buy that, I was considering we were on compD, and most 12V aren't below 25 degrees. LOL

The pic your referring to I had the timing was at the 28ish mark, with 2000+ EGT.

It is all a tuning game, where I see folks do that I don't agree with is wanting the silver bullet to turn 5000 down the track, bumping the timing up to 40 degrees and hoping to turn the 5000 down the track.
 
ha ha I was really at a loss as to why mine fell off until I figured it out.

And yes, there is alot that goes into this thing called "tuning"...
 
1.10 didnt work to well, might hook agin on it. 1 rst 2 times T case didnt go to 4 low and was trying 4 high and didnt know it .. fixed the linkage and went to another pull and got it down track it ran 3500 rpms but didnt sunff to 2800
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v6j_3Rhj7r4

btw turbo combo in this one is S478/83 1.10
 
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