steed speed exhaust manifold or stainless

If your hot pipe is on a fixed flange it will index it closer and lower tword the block. If you have a v-band style you can reindex it and shorten the primary flange side to raise it back up. You will also need to redo the lower turbo support. If you deal your cards right your cold pipe may be closer than you would think. These are just some differences you will encounter.
 
Anyone have a pic of dual wastegate plumbing? Straight or stock
 
Bponci said:
If your hot pipe is on a fixed flange it will index it closer and lower tword the block. If you have a v-band style you can reindex it and shorten the primary flange side to raise it back up. You will also need to redo the lower turbo support. If you deal your cards right your cold pipe may be closer than you would think. These are just some differences you will encounter.
Click to expand...
Thank you!
 
Is anyone running a straight flange with twins on a 2nd gen? can't find info or pics anywhere!?
 
I am, running a straight t3 with a the large wastegate option. wh1c to a gt42. works great. i am too lazy to take pics and upload them, sorry. but it can be done, mine is on a 98 12v
 
Allmaras Diesel said:
We had the same problem. Argued with Johnny over it and he eventually took the manifolds back and refunded the cost, we ate the shipping.

The Stainless manifolds are cast incorrectly making for a .150" port mismatch between the center two ports and the holes are drilled off by .100" to try and center the bolt holes on the flanges to the eye.

The part that was frustrating was the attitude that nothing was wrong, that other people don't measure the parts and just crossthread their manifold bolts into the head so why don't we?

The Steed manifolds are great. Steed communication is excellent.
Click to expand...

I'm looking at manifolds and if this is the case, I'm surprised people are still buying Stainless manifolds. Was this a 12v, 24v, or CR manifold casting?

Anyone want to sell their used Steed? :Cheer:

I'm cheap so I'm trying to justify dropping my ported stock manifold, skipping the 3 piece, and going to the Steed. My biggest need is EGT reduction and spool up. Oh and has to flip/space correctly for the compounds.

-Dustin-
 
Last edited:
Stainless diesel T3

Kind of surprised that with all the talk so few pics were posted.

Here's a few pics of mine.

36BAB6D0-A2F1-4234-88AC-D704DD5549C0-2158-0000029D7C43DED5.jpg


351B220A-8DEB-442F-A59E-D13C6913409C-2158-0000029D955F91C7.jpg


7228A232-E4ED-4889-8B22-2F3679A92DDF-2158-0000029D98E1ECA1.jpg


BF2B8F94-E120-452F-9820-014D21AD6AAC-2158-0000029D876D9CAD.jpg


650BD865-48BF-417C-BC59-0608282C67B4-2158-0000029D8E503985.jpg


B3F79065-39F7-4FDD-9FBA-E4A605713C2D-2158-0000029D91F0475E.jpg


B0040F12-8E78-4F0C-9E21-69FE46CE47D7-2158-0000029D8AA95BDC.jpg
 
Steed's site says they don't include mounting hardware. How about Stainless? I don't see anything stating whether theirs come with it or not.
 
Didn't get to my first post to edit it soon enough.

I'm not saying hardware not included would make me decide one way or another. Just pointing that out for anyone who might be concerned. I'd probably go the stud route anyhow.

However, Stainless does admit that it will turn blue after you've run it hard. Not sure if I'd buy one just to have it turn blue.

Steed is pretty much taking the cake in this thread and they are some b!tchin looking manifolds. I think I'd end up going with one when the time comes. I love threads like these that can provide real data and honest reviews of products.
 
Last edited:
One other plus with the SD manifold, the manifold for a T3 has the same size base as a T4. You could re tap and drill the T4 bolt pattern and port it out to a T4 later if you wanted to.

Also stainless holds heat better than cold rolled. And with as thick and heavy as this thing is, it would hold a lot of heat!

I happen to like the steed speed also, but like the looks Stainless Diesel manifold better.
 
I also don't understand why wrapping the Steed manifold with a blanket or heat wrap would void the warranty. How would adversely affect it in any way? I know they come with a Cerakote coating but they admit that it can scratch easily. Seems strange that a coating such as that could scratch so easily that you have use so much caution when installing it since the slightest bump would ruin the coating.

What if it were to be ceramic coated and then blanketed or heat wrapped?
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top