Street Driven 13mm guys

I am looking at a set of 5x.018s and either .093 or .120 lines right now. I had to get my pump rebuilt due to sticking plungers from some bad fuel that I bought. Thats why I got the 13mm pump. The turbo cleans up the fuel to a haze for anything less than half throttle. And my egts are only hitting 1450 1500 on a wide open run.
 
RonA said:
The 181's will cut the smoke down alot. If the pump is set the way it came from CDS you'll probably need to back the g-springs off. Back them off one click and try it. Then another. You will have to re-set your idle each time you back the springs off. Mine is setup like Warpig's, 024dv's, tight afc, but less timing. Mileage runs between 17 and 19.
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Seems like 024's are the way to go now a days. And it seems like a read alot about full cuts being..........not the way to go. Do you guys think it is worth it to go from full cuts to 191's or 024's on a maxxed/benched 12mm pump? would they make more power?----sorry for the semi-derail.
 
Adjusted the springs today, didn't get anywhere to where I was hoping it would be. Adjusted the throttle lever ball stud, but turns out I moved it the wrong way, making the pedal more sensitive. Gonna correct that tomorrow. Getting tempted to throw a set of 4k's in to see if it settles it down.

Ron, was you gov springs set up fairly loose to begin with? I went back two clicks, seems there might be one click left in it before its disengaged.
 
Tate said:
Adjusted the springs today, didn't get anywhere to where I was hoping it would be. Adjusted the throttle lever ball stud, but turns out I moved it the wrong way, making the pedal more sensitive. Gonna correct that tomorrow. Getting tempted to throw a set of 4k's in to see if it settles it down.

Ron, was you gov springs set up fairly loose to begin with? I went back two clicks, seems there might be one click left in it before its disengaged.
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Yep. 2 clicks was I far as i was comfortable going. But it did the trick on mine. Throttle is touchy and takes some getting used to. A second or stiffer return spring on the throttle helps too. You have to ease into the throttle gently coming off idle at low speed or it will jump.
 
I've got a second return spring on there already, but I had some extra springs that came with my conversion kit, I am gonna have to track them down. I was running the lightest springs, some heavier and more springs might do the trick.

Confirmed last night that a friends T6 wastegated housing will work on my 4202R, so that'll be going on this week as a single. Too bad its not a T4 housing, but its temporary anyway.
 
Well, an update. Swapped out the full cuts for 191's, and it improved the streetability of it, although its still a hand full at slow speeds. Swapped out the OFV that came with the pump for the last one I had, fuel pressure is back to where it used to be. Still able to keep at 15psi at a good amount of throttle with my little 95 GPH pump.
 
Tate said:
fuel pressure is back to where it used to be. Still able to keep at 15psi at a good amount of throttle with my little 95 GPH pump.
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Not that it has anything to do with driveability, but I thought these pumps need 40-45 psi??
 
I was going to ask the same question. Mine is seeing 35ish PSI and I just swapped out the OFV. It will go up to 40PSI but wont stay there long.
 
The piston pump will run about 28psi at idle and maintain 30-35 up to about 2/3 throttle. It will fall off above that. 2/3 throttle is way more than is needed daily driving so it works out well. The second pump plumbed into the front takes it up to a steady 45 for when it is needed. HP drops of noticeably if I forget to turn the other pump on when i dyno.
 
Warpig said:
Not that it has anything to do with driveability, but I thought these pumps need 40-45 psi??
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They probably would like it. I've only got a 30 psi gauge, but the FASS is the 45 psi unit, so not sure what my idle/cruise pressure is other than its above 30 psi. With the OFV that came with the pump, I was at 20 psi at idle, and it would drop to 5 psi with throttle. It was like I had a VP all over again!:doh:

I plan to upgrade my lift pump, probably to a mechanical pump in the future.
 
Tate said:
They probably would like it. I've only got a 30 psi gauge, but the FASS is the 45 psi unit, so not sure what my idle/cruise pressure is other than its above 30 psi. With the OFV that came with the pump, I was at 20 psi at idle, and it would drop to 5 psi with throttle. It was like I had a VP all over again!:doh:

I plan to upgrade my lift pump, probably to a mechanical pump in the future.
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What are the two different valves you were using?
 
Both stock OFVs, one came with the 13mm pump I bought, the other I've been running for the last 3 years. The one that came with the 13mm needs some shims or a new spring. Unless it was designed to pass a bunch more fuel through it, but an external pressure regulator seems like a better setup for that.
 
I have used an Aeromotive external PR for about 6 years now. It has a gage port w/gage. I set that bad boy at 42-45 and check it once in a while.

Back in the 2003-2004 days I dyno tested fuel pressure settings and came up with the number above. Took about 40 pulls and 2 days to get it dailed in. Anything over 72 cost me big HP.

I use a single inlet and outlet to feed the P7100. Every stroke of the plungers can produce some bubbles in certain conditions. The single inlet allows the bubbles to be pushed out so subsequent strokes wont intake air bubbles. The result was less air and more fuel being compressed.

Bosch did install inlet cups on the plungers to help with air entrainment issues like described above. Dont remove them. I know some do. Some use a dual feed too.
 
So here is a question, whats the typical symptoms of a stuck injector? Got the single turbo on, did a couple test pulls with it, driving it back to town. Coasted from 80km/h down to 60 km/h, then had to stop a set of lights. At the lights, it started hazing a bit, and kept getting worse. Idle still seemed pretty smooth. Light goes green, take off and its a white smoke show and is bucking way more than usual. Stopped, shut it off and pulled the front cover to make sure the timing gear is where it was at, though I might have busted the little bolt on the timing gear and retarded itself. That seemed ok. Fired it up, its clean for the first 10 seconds then starts hazing again. Limped it home (only half km from where I was at) and parked it. I wasn't really paying attention to the EGT's when I was driving it back, although those wouldn't tell me much since this is a new to me turbo and no idea what normal is right now. Only other peculiar thing I noticed is the idle seems up about 50-100 rpm higher than before. I parked it for the weekend and forgot about it till now, figured I'd get some guesses on my limited symptoms at this point.
 
How do your trucks start in the cold weather for those guys that DD their trucks with that much timing?
 
My 215 pump started no problems at 23 degrees. My 13mm was hard start on a cold start at 17 degrees, but that might have something to do with 4 stuck injectors.:doh:
 
TeamM said:
How do your trucks start in the cold weather for those guys that DD their trucks with that much timing?
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At 18.5* mine started with no problems in high 20* temps. Haven't had a cold start at 24* but I see no problems. She was a noisy bastard at those temps with 18* though.
 
I am in the process of p pumping my truck and I am stuck on a pump decision. I want the truck to be able to be driven on the street if need be but not a daily driver. Should I go the route of go big or go home and get a 13 mm and throw smaller DV's in it or get a 12mm and get it benched and maxed out? I am completely new to the p7100 and any help would be appreciated. For a turbo as of right now I am running a super b single but after the first of the year I would like to go either twins or triples so I don't see air being a problem after the first of the year.
 
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