strongest head gasket ever

halerazor

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Oct 11, 2006
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i talked to the guy who bought my pulling truck a few years ago, and he said that it is still running on the original gasket and bolts. when i owned it i ran it for a year at 40-50psi on the stock hx35, then i purchased a II super phatshaft 62 and was running over 60psi. the guy i sold it to has been sled pulling it for 3 years now and was running a silver bullet. has anyone had a head gasket take a beating like this, the only thing i can think that could have stopped it from blowing for this long is i cut 2 fins off the coolant pump which may have relieved some pressure on the head. it use to blow coolant out the overflow bottle free reving to 5000rpm
 
Tim Barber had a 2000 or 2001 24v that made somewhere close to 600hp, and handle 65-70psi on the stock stuff...I can't remember the details, but last I knew she was still going.

My old 95 has 365K miles on it, 165K of them modded from mild, to almost wild:D 76psi a few times with the 40/B2 setup, and many 65psi runs...still running the stock bolts and gasket. Pulling trailers and working hard most of the time, and getting run hard by me the rest of the time.

Chris
 
why in the world does evryone get the heads oringed and studded, i know its insurance but if the stock gasket can handle 70psi why mess with it until it blows. id say my old truck is over 600hp running a silver bullet he said he was dropping down a class to 2.6 and going to a s486 i believe is what he said
 
what is the timming at? and did you ever get a drive pressure reading? i know kyle at toxic diesel had a p-pumped 24 vavle that ran on the stock gasket and bolts for a long time doing 60psi plus for a while. and it was just fine. but thats about the extent of my knowledge on that
 
Had a customers truck, 1999 24v VP, with a 2.8s400 over a 3.2H5, make over 120 lbs of boost for several months on a stock gasket, with standard 12mm studs. Engine had about 130k on it when the turbos were put on it, but it had been running a set of towing twins for a long time efore that.
 
i was running it at 18.5* the drive pressure had to be high it was running over 60psi on the II 62 and i believe they set there wastegate to around 50psi and i never touched the wastegate. it was a 98 with 370's,laser cuts,0 plate,ats manifold and 5k kit
 
mine blew with a HTT 64/71/14 wastegated to 44 psi and 17.5* timing. I'm not all that inclined to push my next motor with the stock gasket/bolts setup since I hate being dead on the side of the road.
 
I should also say, on my 98, I blew it after a whopping 6K miles at 43psi boost, and 20* timing...not saying that's bad, just different :D

Chris
 
Tim Barber had a 2000 or 2001 24v that made somewhere close to 600hp, and handle 65-70psi on the stock stuff...I can't remember the details, but last I knew she was still going.

He said he ran a couple years with 35/3b twins and stock bolts by making sure the truck was warm before getting into it. That was way back, but when Tim talks I listen =)
 
He said he ran a couple years with 35/3b twins and stock bolts by making sure the truck was warm before getting into it. That was way back, but when Tim talks I listen =)

Yes sir...he knows his stuff...although he has asked me a question or two about 12v's when I'm there:D They seem to be a little too old for him:hehe:

Chris
 
Too much variance from one truck to the next which is why it's a good idea to stud/o-ring them. One truck could be tight as could possibly be for the non-oring design. The next could have 10 headbolts backed out stretched whatever and leaking compression at idle. (extreme examples ofcourse).

If you can afford the down time than go ahead and gamble. If not then stud/o-ring it. I like the idea of addressing it before an issue before the deck surface is distorted during a failure.
 
The motor that was in Sled Pullers old truck was done back in 01 by EEP.O-Ringed Head and factory head bolts along with some internal work netted him back to back championships with the now defunct DHRA series.That truck has since been through two different owners and is still pulling locally here in the Mid-Atlantic region and the head has NEVER been off of the truck at all.
 
or do like i did on the engine out of my 95 that i put in my 97. HG was fine. Put some studs in her, 64/65/14 at 50+/- psi holds good.
Also.... this engine has 375,000 roughly on it. I bought it with 320K or so. Have ben beating it ever since.

Lance
 
I did the same thing, I studded my head before my truck ever saw more then 25psi of boost. and its been fine, and i've hit 60psi on the stock turbo, and had it at 50psi for 6 months until I grenaded, then with my new turbo i've had that at 60psi for a while too and its still fine. but i only run 18* timing. and my brother did the same thing as me, he was 37psi with his 370's and when he did his twins he studded his head and put some ddp4's in and he's been seeing alot more then 60psi no problems, and he has 215k miles but he also only runs 16.5* of timing so thats probably whats saving us.
 
hmmm, sounds like i will save the money and leave my timing at 16.5. i liked the idea of going to 18 or 19 cause the top end on my truck is suffering from the small turbo and lower timing.

but i guess i will stay at 16.5 for a while and hope to save the gasket. ive been pushing 40 ish psi out of my little hx35 for a while.
 
There has been discussion of head casting variance when dealing with water jackets and ports in other threads...

How consistent is the thickness of the deck material?
 
My stocker lasted, a good while with first 60 psi on the stock chrager, 55 with an s300, 55 with a 62 mm charger, and about 75 to 80 on my old twin set. was starting to show some signs of it starting to leak, when I pulled it to do this years build.
 
192k on my stock headgasket and has been over 40psi for the last 3 or so years and has seen water/meth usage. It does have studs in it but that's it. I'm not fixing it till it blows. Current combo is 215 pump with 20.5* of timing and a 66.
 
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