Switch To An Auto....

codyn said:
they sat you make hp with stock bore
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correction they say you make more hp with the stock bore than boring it out. auto is the way to go if you have a right setup and you have the time mess with it
 
More HP with stock bore ??? That makes no sence but what do I know

Anyways Brandon I think u need a higher gear ratio u need 2 gears were u can go from around 12 to a 14 final with the tires u have
 
Rods said:
More HP with stock bore ??? That makes no sence but what do I know

Anyways Brandon I think u need a higher gear ratio u need 2 gears were u can go from around 12 to a 14 final with the tires u have
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well when i bought a billet cam i asked scheid about boring the motor and they said you do not make any more power boring the motor but what does scheid diesel know.
 
Yeah true I bet there engines are stock bore, sorry for my ignorence
 
I think you may be onto something Brandon.. I think Auto is awesome for 2.5, 2.6, or even 2.8 Class, but I think above that manual is the way to go.
 
I think you will see the manual to be competitive at the larger level will need a triple disk. So now your into a 4k clutch about.
 
I am in the 2.8 class with a K31 and a LOT of fuel in my truck with an auto. I had a new converter put in this spring with a 1600 stall, and I fought it all year until this week when I had a 2300 stall put in. Before it would not even think of lighting. Now with the high stall:woohoo::ft::woohoo: 4wd drive launches are fun again! My first hook with the new converter will be this sunday and I cant wait!!
 
codyn said:
:hehe: so funny but i never said all there motors were stock but since you guys know it all i just keep quiet.:bow:
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Im just giving ya a hard time. I cant afford to pull, so I get on here and talk about itLOL
 
the auto will do wonders to about 900 to 1000 hp. just have to get the stall and the tuning right to match. i will say auto will compete with the big manual trucks if you spend time getting everything dialed in. when you get into the 3.0 class running 1300hp then i would say go with a manual to handle the power .
 
Last time I priced them they required a spacer plate, a different input shaft 1 3/8x10", and then the clutch. That got it to almost $4k. Whose triple is $2500??
 
zstroken said:
Last time I priced them they required a spacer plate, a different input shaft 1 3/8x10", and then the clutch. That got it to almost $4k. Whose triple is $2500??
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Kenny's pulling parts. No longer shaft or spacer needed.
 
Good info! I wandered if you were thinking about Kenny.
 
Id have a hard time buying a Kenny's clutch if i was buying one. He is right up the road about 45 minutes from me, but going by the experiences that a few friends have had with their clutches from him, It just seems like they are hit or miss. Maybe his triple disc's are better than the dual disks, but my buddy never did have any luck with his dual disk from him.

Eric
 
i pull with an auto, i think you benefit down at the end when you can unlock the converter and you don't have the cost of clutches every year.
 
i think the new suncoast tcm 2000 and the e618v will be the best thing for the auto pullers
 
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