tdi clutch job

blackcoal

blackcoal

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Joined
Jan 2, 2011
Messages
515
Im in the process of swapping out the clutch on my 2000 5 speed installing a south bend stage 2 clutch. I got the trans and clutch out and that dual mass flywheel was trashed, and the one clutch facing fell off when I threw it in the junk pile haha. Hopefully it was the cause of my vibration problem.

Anyways I would like to how you are supposed to do this clutch job without dropping the sub frame? All the people on tdi club say you don't have too and you just unhook the exhaust and push the engine forward and it will clear it. Ya right, it hits on the back side like the differential where you bolt the cv axles on, So I pretty much just ended up bear hugging the stupid thing and let it fall on me to get it out, which wont work on putting it back in and trying to get the input shaft lined up.

So I would like to know how you are supposed to get this dumb thing back in there? Waiting on a rear main seal right now as oil started running out of it after I took the flywheel off which is weird too as it was all dry in the bell housing and wasn't leaking before.
 
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You can do it, but be ready to twist and turn that sucker to get it in there.
 
I will let you know tomorrow adam. I'm helping with one then. Its getting a stage 2 organic south bend. Idk why its not the feramic endurance one.
 
Billysgoat said:
You can do it, but be ready to twist and turn that sucker to get it in there.
Click to expand...

I guess so, one guy on tdi club said to use a engine hoist and get it up in the air and just "bench press" it into place?

or any of you guys that have done it, is it worth the time to remove the sub frame?
 
HightechRedneck said:
I will let you know tomorrow adam. I'm helping with one then. Its getting a stage 2 organic south bend. Idk why its not the feramic endurance one.
Click to expand...

Okay let me know Dustin, mines not going back in till a rear main seal shows up. I went with the endurance I think? sintered iron on flywheel side and like organic on the pressure plate I think. They said I wouldn't like the full sintered iron for a dd
 
I did not on mine, it was on a lift but the tranny jack was pretty much useless. As best I remember, it was get it close and manhandle from there.
 
Watching this, prolly gonna have to put one in my vr6 before long.
 
It was man handled in. Easiest way I found was clocking the trans up a little on the back. Then pull your engine to the front of the bay. Whenever you do that they seem to go right in. You have to bend the spacer plate a little for the transaxle stub to clear the block.

Hope this helps you man.

I also have the stage 2 endurance in my car. I have a rear main seal here if you need it.
 
Give you guys an update, finally got around to putting this back in and it appears the new rear main isn't leaking yet, but time will tell. Used a engine hoist to hold it up and then I just moved it right into place. Way easier than trying to piss around with a tranny jack. I let the engine drop as far as it could and I pushed it forward till it hit the cooling fans with a scissor jack.
 
Thanks, after reading a little about that it is gonna be a while before I have time to tear into my car that far.
 
Agree with previous poster. You need to support the engine from above, then twist and fenegal to get the tranny out. It can be done without removing the subframe or axle flange. I've done it.

The trickiest part was working around the power steering lines. It can be done, jjust take your time
 
I pulled the fnt bumper and it was pretty simple getting in. Had. Few more inches to work with. Also a few choice words.


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