Tdi wont start, checked the usual suspects already..

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black3d0ut12v

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My 99.5 Tdi refuses to start. The 109 relay is good, fuses are good, tried 3 different keys Incase the Immobilizer was acting up, there is no air present in the fuel system, the anti shudder valve isn't stuck, the timing belt is tight, I'm at a loss for ideas right now. The car just shut off and upon trying to restart it would just fire up and die. Then it would fire on one cylinder and die then it wouldn't fire any cylinders. The glow plug light was coming on then it stopped, then it flashed. Also upon cycling the key the CEL only comes on sometimes and when it does the car will run for a second or two and then shut off. It really sounds like the 109 relay but with the cover removed you can see the relay pull in when you hit the key. Also the shutdown solenoid on the pump is functioning. I'm just plain out of ideas. Any help would be appreciated. -chuck
 
try cracking the injector lines loose and see if fuel comes out when your cranking it over.

If its doesnt your injector pump may have giving the ghost up.
 
Step one scan for codes and data history pending ect..Agreed crack lines. Since ther is no fuel pump to pump fuel into the injection pump don't just assume the ip is bad. You can have an air leak in the lines and it mite be air bound also. When these cars get air bound it's a task to get em goin. Mityvac helps out great. If you scan and get nothing and want to eliminate any possibility of an air leak run it off small can of fuel direct to the ip. If you want spray a little ether in the intake tube and see if she fires. Keep me posted. Where ya from?
 
My first question is how do you know there is no air in the system? Assuming you have cracked injector lines and gotten a good mess out of them? If you have not, start there. One that I had to do with my car was reseal the IP body, it was leaking around the main O-ring and the car would not hit a lick and would not reprime.

Next question, do you have VAG COM or a similar setup? Pulling codes is step #2.
 
Very common for injection pump leaks. Reason I said scan first is that if you have an immobilizer code and your looking for a leak that mite might not exist you going to waste some time. It takes a minute and is easy to do. Also you might have gotten a bad batch of fuel. Vag-com is great and is almost a must if you own one of these cars.
 
no immo on 99.5 rule that out

Double check the timing, 5th gear, one wheel up, turn forward, then back just a hair, double check belt tension. verify the belt is rotating with the engine.

VCDS is your next bet, check the codes, post them.
 
Yep your right about immobilizer. That started in 2000
 
yea I need to get vcds. I'm in PA and I guess I should also mention that right before this happened we pressure washed (not real high pressure) the engine bay but the car started right up and drove up to the shop fine and once it was there we replaced the alternator and that's when it wouldn't start. We looked over everything to make sure we didn't break or forget to reconnect anything. Bleeding the lines was one of the first things we did when it wouldn't start. There are no air bubbles in the feed line either. I think today I'm going to take the 109 relay from my dad's car and try it just to rule that out, then I'll try removing the feed line and putting it directly into a bottle of diesel just to rule everything out that I'm already pretty sure on. as far as timing I did watch the belt while cranking and it didn't jump around or anything but I never thought about jacking up one wheel and turning it. I'll give that a shot. Thanks for the help guys, I'll keep you posted because on tdiclub and vortex a lot of these threads were left open ended and the O.P. never said what the problem was.
 
I'm in PA and have VagCom. You're on the right track, check fuel supply by running it out of a can but be sure to put both the supply and return lines into the can and have the ends of both lines submersed in fuel. Watch for bubbles coming out the return line.
 
Update: went to the shop after the car sat for 3 days. Hit the key and she fired right up and runs like a top. The glow plug light is flashing though... ill keep you posted
 
that sounds like a time bomb waiting to strand you. good luck
 
Yea just put a brand new 109 relay in just, no change. Upon more investigation its looking like the automatic shutoff for the pump. When you turn the key some times it clicks louder and then it will start. Anyone have experience with that?
 
weak solenoid? dirt get inside a protective boot and gum up the works?>
 
well we pulled the shutoff solenoid off and it looked fine so we put it back in and ran a jumper from the battery to the positive side and no dice so we tried jumping out the ground side and still no dice but you can clearly hear the difference when the solenoid is fully working or just clicking. when it did fire up it didn't show any signs of anything being broken except after a few minutes the glow plug light started flashing. also the only time the glow plug light will come on is when the shutoff relay fully engages and that is when the car will start fine. is there a ground for the ecm somewhere that could be bad? at the moment I'm thinking replace glow plugs, glow plug harness, glow plug relay, and shutoff solenoid and go from there. I hate throwing parts at things but it seems like thats the best way to diagnose and repair these cars. its hard to complain with 240k miles on it but it seems like every time I fix something 5 more problems pop up.
 
I would scan this car! There are mant reasons why the glow plug light can flash. This is going to sound dumb but my fuse for my brakelights was blown due to a chaffed wire in the trunk lid and that caused the glowplug light to flash. Another car I had my brakelight switch went bad that caused the glowplug light to flash. I am not saying you got a brakelight problem just saying dont think it can only be a glowplug isuue.
 
forgive me if I'm wrong, but that shutoff solenoid is what shuts fuel flow no? if it is not opening, it wont run. to me that is the problem. I have a similar issue on a tractor, weak solenoid. will crank fine, but if that thing doesn't pull open, no fuel. I manualy reach mine and give it a pull to open position and off she goes, fires right up.
 
CTD01 said:
I would scan this car! There are mant reasons why the glow plug light can flash. This is going to sound dumb but my fuse for my brakelights was blown due to a chaffed wire in the trunk lid and that caused the glowplug light to flash. Another car I had my brakelight switch went bad that caused the glowplug light to flash. I am not saying you got a brakelight problem just saying dont think it can only be a glowplug isuue.
Click to expand...

WHS. Had a beetle with flashing glow plug light turned out to be a bad switch.

I'm not sure you answered the question or not but when cranking with the injector lines cracked open is fuel spraying out of them? This should be a dead give away if the pump is working or not?
 
if you need to purge lines from tank to pump I used to put an air line into the tank lightly sealed off with a rag to lightly pressurize the tank, forcing fuel to the inlet of the pump. Never tried but I bet you could put a 20 psi regulator on a line from just passed the intercooler to the tank making a nice self contained positive flow to the inlet side of almost any turbo'd motor. 20 psi too much? 15psi, at least it is something pushing fuel to the pump.
 
Sounds like more of an electrical gremlin than anything, VCDS is your friend, get with someone who has it and knows how to use before you go throwing parts, much cheaper.
 
Update: it was the shutoff solenoid. Glow plug still flashing. The all were burnt up. Replaced them and the harness and relay. The coolant temp sensor was bad too so that's new now
 
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