The NX Dragster is under new management

chad riley said:
i have a convertor that i believe is the sister to the banks convertor in there truck and it would not work with my common rail motor in the camaro 4200 rpm. My roadster runs similiar convertor 5000 rpm 2.50 rear gear and a gearvendor and it works great. then i have a 14 in that stalls 2000 works great with a 500hp motor using an hx40 turbo but will not work with big turbo can not spool. there are a dozzen combos weight, hp,rpm what works for one will not work for all. your dmax should stick with a clutch its there and it will be scary fast looks great good luck.
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Glad you commented Chad, ya I could def. see how you couldnt spool a 88mm single at 2k, it takes a nice steady fuel curve to do so with only my 71mm but I can have it full song at 2k if I choose. The great part of that big convertor is being able to get it tight but also be able to loosen it up and still have efficency that's not poss. with a smaller unit. 'If' when you built the Roadster; you could have had an option to put that 14" convertor in a Glide would'nt you have over choosing the TH400? Or, with your really large single turbo and gearing do you just have to have that deep gear to pull you out well. I believe you said you run the 2.10 now in your 400, they make a 1.96 straight cut planet set for the glide...I just assumed you picked the 400 for the same reason I did..... to house the big convertor that the Glide would'nt.
Ryan
 
chad riley said:
i have a convertor that i believe is the sister to the banks convertor in there truck and it would not work with my common rail motor in the camaro 4200 rpm. My roadster runs similiar convertor 5000 rpm 2.50 rear gear and a gearvendor and it works great. then i have a 14 in that stalls 2000 works great with a 500hp motor using an hx40 turbo but will not work with big turbo can not spool. there are a dozzen combos weight, hp,rpm what works for one will not work for all. your dmax should stick with a clutch its there and it will be scary fast looks great good luck.
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Chad, yea my clutch is working, but it's very evident it's leaving several tenths on the table, because it bogs so bad on launch,we've tried all but one combo that may work, but im so burned out on constantly working on the clutch im really wanting a auto for less maintenance and better consistancy.
 
Joesixpack said:
Its noteworthy that the Audi diesels that run in the Le Mans endurance race run in the 3k to 5k. The gas counterparts in the 10-12K.

When a company like Audi with that kind of bank roll behind R&D peaks out at 5k, I'm thinking there just isn't much to be had beyond that.
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The audi and pug diesel 's in non- lemans trim make about 350 more hp and turn up to 8000RPM.

The lemans race makes all competitors run CI based restrictor plates of all including diesel vehicles for competition. That plate makes for a more reliable race and keeps all engine close in power--fair!
 
DIESEL_POWER said:
Chad, yea my clutch is working, but it's very evident it's leaving several tenths on the table, because it bogs so bad on launch,we've tried all but one combo that may work, but im so burned out on constantly working on the clutch im really wanting a auto for less maintenance and better consistancy.
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Why is it bogging? It aint like you have HX82's on there...
 
Isn't that what happens when you remove reciprocating mass and do not make it up with higher RPM's?
 
Hey this is one of the best derails in history. Great discussion going on. Im not bothered in the slightest.
 
Bring the clutch in slower to not bog it or leave with more wheel speed to drive through it.
If you need a lesson on wheel speed...dig up some of Keatings old Vids with the Chevy truck. That man didn't fukk around.
 
DIESEL_POWER said:
Chad, yea my clutch is working, but it's very evident it's leaving several tenths on the table, because it bogs so bad on launch,we've tried all but one combo that may work, but im so burned out on constantly working on the clutch im really wanting a auto for less maintenance and better consistancy.
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You and Greg has mentioned that you purposly 'rev out of the torque band' to kill the torque to save diveline parts..... well Id have to say thats where your bog is coming from, well that and a lightened rotating assembley. That situation and a clutch is not a great combo as you have found. Mine did a lot of things but Bog was'nt one of them, lol. Have you ever thought of droppping the clutch down lower in the toque curve to see if that helps pull the gear better out of the hole? Or you could swap in a 12v lol. The big picture is spooling against a convertor so the proper amount of boost is built so that a bog situation is not present because enough power will be there to over come, and Id drop your stall speed 1k to start with...... just my warped thinking
 
Timbeaux38 said:
Why is it bogging? It aint like you have HX82's on there...
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Leaving with 4000+ RPM and little boost does that to a diesel. or at least mine. If i could leave with 20-25 lbs i would not have a bog im sure of that.

Signature600 said:
Good point...and I thought it never dropped below 4500RPM, even at a gear change....if it's bogging at 4500RPM, you have more issues than a clutch
Chris
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No, just a boost issue

NitrousExpress said:
Hey this is one of the best derails in history. Great discussion going on. Im not bothered in the slightest.
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Glad you approve! Got any other good derails we could tak about?
UNBROKEN said:
Bring the clutch in slower to not bog it or leave with more wheel speed to drive through it.
If you need a lesson on wheel speed...dig up some of Keatings old Vids with the Chevy truck. That man didn't fukk around.
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Leaving too high 5000 + caused too much wheel speed then a bog once it caught, because boost was so low to start with.

We tried leaving as low as 3200 and that was horrible and still bogged, again no boost
 
No boost at 4-5k, like none or 5 ponds? what kinda boost do you see going down the track?
 
DIESEL_POWER said:
Leaving with 4000+ RPM and little boost does that to a diesel. or at least mine. If i could leave with 20-25 lbs i would not have a bog im sure of that.

No, just a boost issue


Glad you approve! Got any other good derails we could tak about?


Leaving too high 5000 + caused too much wheel speed then a bog once it caught, because boost was so low to start with.

We tried leaving as low as 3200 and that was horrible and still bogged, again no boost
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Couldn't you program in the ECU to adjust the fueling appropriately to wheel speed to create low or unloaded boost with just free reving? JoeSixPack had a few posts claiming 50psi at 5000rpm or something free reving with his standalone.
 
stock600 said:
You and Greg has mentioned that you purposly 'rev out of the torque band' to kill the torque to save diveline parts..... well Id have to say thats where your bog is coming from, well that and a lightened rotating assembley. That situation and a clutch is not a great combo as you have found. Mine did a lot of things but Bog was'nt one of them, lol. Have you ever thought of droppping the clutch down lower in the toque curve to see if that helps pull the gear better out of the hole? Or you could swap in a 12v lol. The big picture is spooling against a convertor so the proper amount of boost is built so that a bog situation is not present because enough power will be there to over come, and Id drop your stall speed 1k to start with...... just my warped thinking
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Well i may have said that before but for some reason, my engine rally makes very little TQ so pulling thrue peak TQ makes no difference to me or the truck.

i did not lighten much rotating weight, but i did however lighten a ton of recipricating weight! So my launch is unaffected by the weight as thought.

i have launched from 3200 to 5500 and not got much to show for it, because i could not build boost on a free rev. That is untill johnboy did some launch tune changes and made the engine build some boost on the 2-step limiter. in the shop i saw as high as 11 psi, at the track everything changed (heatsoak) ect and i never saw more than 8 psi @ 4100 launch.

The data logs show that after i launch @ 4100 the engine gets pulled down to 2000 and then by the time it gets back to 4100 RPM about 7 tenths has gone by and the truck go's after that just fine , but that bog is killing my whole run, because i cant build good boost.

Rpm recovery, boost recovery,peak boost, tire speed, weight transfer all affect the ET greatly.

only thing i have been able to do to go faster this year with these issue's is chassis adjustments and ratio changes. That alone took almost 3 seconds off in the 1/8th! I feel that even with the bog, i got another tenth, maybe 1.5 tenths i can drop in the 60Ft with some simple changes, but with winter here i'll have to wait, or travel south.....
 
JasonCzerak said:
Couldn't you program in the ECU to adjust the fueling appropriately to wheel speed to create low or unloaded boost with just free reving? JoeSixPack had a few posts claiming 50psi at 5000rpm or something free reving with his standalone.
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i'de love to but i dont tune this engine johnboy does, and we have not had time to do any tune testing yet, plus im useing a simple stock GM EDC 16 with EFI. i believe that EFI will build us the software needed to accomidate our need for more RPM.

I'd love to have a real stand alone, but i dont have the funds for a real stand alone.
 
DIESEL_POWER said:
i'de love to but i dont tune this engine johnboy does, and we have not had time to do any tune testing yet, plus im useing a simple stock GM EDC 16 with EFI. i believe that EFI will build us the software needed to accomidate our need for more RPM.

I'd love to have a real stand alone, but i dont have the funds for a real stand alone.
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Looks like you're close with what johnboy's doing. just need more. :)
 
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