to p-pump or not to p-pump

ward.racing

ward.racing

black smoke addict
Joined
Mar 11, 2008
Messages
268
THis has probly been asked before. but I had a HRVP on my truck and just sold it. Im thinking about p-pumping my truck. Ive heard you can get tons of power out of it.

I thought about getting a monster pump, but be the time I buy the pump, lines, and a box to control the electronics it will be about the same price as the conversion.

I was wondering what would be the best set up. I was thinking about a Dragon Flow pump from I.I. and I will also be runnin a silver Bullet 66. I looked at schieds and haisly's also.

Thanks guys

Mark
 
Is your truck a DD?

At the power levels you want a P-Pump wouldn't be as easy to drive on the street, since you can't just turn the boxes down. Although you could install a valet switch.

That said, if cost is comparable, I'd prob do it, for cool, and reliability.
 
its not a DD anymore I may drive it on the week ends but not that much, got a new 6.7l to play with. Its just my race truck now. I dynod 550 with my juice on 3 and only hit 35 lbs of boost cuz they said the dyno wuznt loading my truck enough and tires where spinnin on the wheels. Im looking for some major power. Im runnin low 13's with the current set up and looking for 11's. got some lightins to kill
 
P-Pump it.

Plus that way you can sell some of the stuff you have on it now and recoup some of the cost.
 
ward.racing said:
its not a DD anymore I may drive it on the week ends but not that much, got a new 6.7l to play with. Its just my race truck now. I dynod 550 with my juice on 3 and only hit 35 lbs of boost cuz they said the dyno wuznt loading my truck enough and tires where spinnin on the wheels. Im looking for some major power. Im runnin low 13's with the current set up and looking for 11's. got some lightins to kill
Click to expand...

whats your current setup?
 
Mark,
I will say the P-pump gets you over the hurdles that electronic fuel control can create. Though it will also create a headache or two as far as tuning is concerned:bang

That said. If its gonna be a racer/toy go P-Pump.
Not knocking the HR or Monster VP, but why deal with the reliability issue if the conversion compares cost wise?
 
Don't do it unless all you are looking for is MAX HP. You will give up driveabilty and need tons of tuning and custom parts to really make it drive nice.
 
doug i am not trying to argue with you. but i know 2 guys with p pump trucks 1 went as easy as changing parts no problems what so ever but he bought everything tuned for his truck. the other one was a pain to tune took several days but onece we got it figured out it has been perfect. its nice to turn the power off or down with the flick of a switch or push of a button but for power of relaibility or power you need a p pump.
 
I say go with the P pump, I did it and I like mine. Its kinda quirky buit kicks my HRVP/drag comp's arse. The only real custom parts you need are injection lines and a cam sensor bracket. Their is some b.s. fab work. Alot easier if you have a whole 12V. You'll have to say bye-bye to you cruise control though.

Just think of the looks people will give you when you tell them that your truck is that fast with no chip.
 
roachie said:
I say go with the P pump, I did it and I like mine. Its kinda quirky buit kicks my HRVP/drag comp's arse. The only real custom parts you need are injection lines and a cam sensor bracket. Their is some b.s. fab work. Alot easier if you have a whole 12V. You'll have to say bye-bye to you cruise control though.

Just think of the looks people will give you when you tell them that your truck is that fast with no chip.
Click to expand...

you can keep your cruse i have no idea how. but call josh @ woodruff diesel he can make it work like it did with the vp.
 
DO IT!!!!!

There realy isnt a bad thing about the conversion. Sure you lose the ability to change power on the fly, but thats what you right foot is for! I will say I drive mine every day, and have put over 20k miles on it since the conversion and all of them have been trouble free. True is has been a pain to tune, but its easy to do it, just got to find the sweet spot between the pump, turbo and rest of the motor.

Since yours is just going to be a weekend warrior and race truck, I dont see any problems running the pump! Thing is Im running a 71mm turbo with my pump and I cant even clear up the smoke yet! Call it bad tuning but Ill get it right soon!


Oh and my cruse control works just fine!
 
stuckey_272002 said:
you can keep your cruse i have no idea how. but call josh @ woodruff diesel he can make it work like it did with the vp.
Click to expand...

Im pretty sure that only works on the 98-00 that had the vacuum cruise. 01-02 has fly by wire. Or course anything is possible with enough relays, and a steper motor. I hear a manual PTO cable works well if you can stand to look at it.
 
If your serious P-pump it. I have played with both and HR VP-44 and HR P7100.
It's nice to go out and almost break into the 10's first time out vs. fighting the electronics and a distributor pump that does not like high rpm for a whole season and barely break into the 11's.
 
stuckey_272002 said:
doug i am not trying to argue with you. but i know 2 guys with p pump trucks 1 went as easy as changing parts no problems what so ever but he bought everything tuned for his truck. the other one was a pain to tune took several days but onece we got it figured out it has been perfect. its nice to turn the power off or down with the flick of a switch or push of a button but for power of relaibility or power you need a p pump.
Click to expand...


Installing the parts and getting it to run isn't difficult, its the getting it to act as nice as a VP truck. I have never seen a p-pumped 24v that drove as nice as a VP truck...... I have seen lots of ones where guys said they did but upon a ride/drive they just didn't. All had quirks, CEL lights on, engine stumbles, no cruise, etc. With the kits available now doing it is much easier than a few years ago. There are also parts made specific for the application that really help but the cost in $$ can be high. There are VP trucks dynoing over 900 now so unless you are looking for more HP than that you are stepping backwards.

The reliabilty issue is a part that will always haunt the VP crowd, although we have come a long ways in the past couple of years. I would say going to a p-pump once installed and tuned is a more reliable solution as long as it is done right. This would mean installing a cam with the lift pump lobe so you can use the OEM 12v mechanical pump. If you elect to go with an electric lift pump you through the reliabilty/longevity factor back into the mix.

Personally swapping the 24v out for a 12v is a much better option in my opinion. Lots of good parts available. Any diesel mechaic can work on it. Larger 13mm valvestems (don't break near as easy). Also the dyno testing I have done all 24v p-pumped trucks I have seen made less HP with a given pump than their twin 12v.
 
roachie said:
Im pretty sure that only works on the 98-00 that had the vacuum cruise. 01-02 has fly by wire. Or course anything is possible with enough relays, and a steper motor. I hear a manual PTO cable works well if you can stand to look at it.
Click to expand...

No it can be done on the later years..... Mine worked and it was an 2001.5
 
Last edited:
Personally swapping the 24v out for a 12v is a much better option in my opinion. Lots of good parts available. Any diesel mechaic can work on it. Larger 13mm valvestems (don't break near as easy). Also the dyno testing I have done all 24v p-pumped trucks I have seen made less HP with a given pump than their twin 12v.[/QUOTE]

Totally agree. Thats what I tell people all the time thinking of doing a conversion easer and less expensive to just swap in a complete 12v and sell the 24v. Again do the math.
Also a mechanical 12V supply pump will not keep up with the supply demands of a turned up p7100.
 
roachie said:
The hell you say? How does that work?
Click to expand...


I don't remember exactley how we hooked it all up, its been 4 years since I owned it in running condition. I will see if I can find some pics and refress my memory. I had everything on my truck working except for the CEL.
 
Jetpilot said:
I don't remember exactley how we hooked it all up, its been 4 years since I owned it in running condition. I will see if I can find some pics and refress my memory. I had everything on my truck working except for the CEL.
Click to expand...

Please do find that stuff. I'm working on getting parts for my 02 to do this conversion soon. I have hitt a wall with my truck at 600hp and have got tired of chasing my tail with electronics. I get on thing figured out, fix it and it makes another problem come up. Right now my truck throws codes for a sensor that doesn't exist on the 02, a Crank case position sensor.:doh:

Mechanical is simple and I understand it.
 
Voodoo Trucker said:
Personally swapping the 24v out for a 12v is a much better option in my opinion. Lots of good parts available. Any diesel mechaic can work on it. Larger 13mm valvestems (don't break near as easy). Also the dyno testing I have done all 24v p-pumped trucks I have seen made less HP with a given pump than their twin 12v.

Totally agree. Thats what I tell people all the time thinking of doing a conversion easer and less expensive to just swap in a complete 12v and sell the 24v. Again do the math.
Also a mechanical 12V supply pump will not keep up with the supply demands of a turned up p7100.
Click to expand...

I know a lot of people that say swapping in a 12v and selling the 24v is a better option. The one thing I always say to that is I already have the studs and firerings, why would I pay to do that again on a 12v?

Rick
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top