Torque Converter Lock Out

06RAMCTD

06RAMCTD

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Jul 19, 2008
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I know I've seen it, but I cannot find it. I'm looking for the wiring diagram that shows how to keep the ECM from locking the torque converter.

I have the T/C lock up switch installed, and working on the street at low speed. However, when I am sledpulling, I don't believe the ECM is allowing the converter to unlock. I hear it lock when , but I don't hear it unlock, and its stalling the truck when I let out of the throttle.

I would also like to wire a light into it, so I can visually see what is going on.

Any information would be appreciated. I've tried searching, but I cannot find what I am looking for.
 
I haven't seen a diagram or anything but I'd imagine it's just a switch that interrupts the circuit. Cut the wire on the harness that controls the lockup solenoid and run two wires to a switch in the cab that retains stock function in the closed position and keeps converter from locking in open position.
 
Found this on another site:

Originally Posted by SMOKIN-U View Post
ok i have one for you guys. i attempted to wire up a 3 position toggle switch for my tc lockup. several others i know have done this and it worked i just couldnt quite get it figured out i guess and i need some help. well we cut the #7 wire on the transmission in to ran 2 wires from trans to switch then the 3rd wire was a ground with the 33 ohm resistor. with one wire on each prong the idea is to have the down position be factory, middle no lock up at all and up tc lockup. the main reason for this is when i sled pull i want to leave the line in the middle position then when truck shifts to 2nd lock it up and at the end of the track when it starts to pull the motor down un lock it. if i do just the on-off style it will unlock then lockup again hence the reason for the 3 position switch. that way i when the night is over i can just turn down to factory setting and drive home. hope this makes sense and i know it is possible. i just dont know where i went wrong and need some help. thanks. with this wired up like i described truck was taking off in 2nd gear would not lock up at all and would not go into od. (yes i did cut the correct pin) went back and put both wires coming from the transmission on same prong and left the ground alone well after doing that 2 of the positions on the toggle worked like stock again then the 3rd did lock the convertor but it would make it shift from 2nd gear to od. if i put it on 2 on the column it stays in 2nd but wont lock up if i lock od out it does the same in 3rd but in drive as long as its in 2nd and i hit it, it goes straight to od and locks up bogging the truck down. any help would be greatly appriciated. thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SMOKIN-U View Post
we got it figured out. the way we had it wired the first time is correct. the only thing we did was take out the trans relay and put a jump in. after that we put the two seperate wires back on, one at each pole and the3rd pole is the ground with the resistor now down is stock, middle it wont lock and top maunuall locks it up. i really do appriciate the help today, thanks

Can some provide a little more detail? Is there a relay that needs jumpered, and if so which one?

Thanks
 
This should work if its the ECU holding the lock. Wire this switch between your lockup switch and the trans.

OD_Lockout.jpg
 
Well this is how I am thinking of it:
The reason the switch locks up the TC is because it grounds it out. So to unlock it you would have to keep power to it instead of grounding it off. Test the wire and see how many volts it is pulling when the TC is unlocked and find another source with the same voltage to jump it off of. If I remember right I think it pulls a regular 12v system but it could be 5.4v... Can't remember.

To wire up a light all you need to do is hook the light to a 12v source and then to the lock up switch ground so when you flip the lockup switch the light itself turns on.

Good luck :Cheer:
 
Cantankerous1 said:
This should work if its the ECU holding the lock. Wire this switch between your lockup switch and the trans.

Was there suppose to be a link or some additional info?

OD_Lockout.jpg
Click to expand...

TXAustin said:
Well this is how I am thinking of it:
The reason the switch locks up the TC is because it grounds it out. So to unlock it you would have to keep power to it instead of grounding it off. Test the wire and see how many volts it is pulling when the TC is unlocked and find another source with the same voltage to jump it off of. If I remember right I think it pulls a regular 12v system but it could be 5.4v... Can't remember.


To wire up a light all you need to do is hook the light to a 12v source and then to the lock up switch ground so when you flip the lockup switch the light itself turns on.

Good luck :Cheer:
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking orginally. When I was trying to get the lcok up to work last year, I measured 14.5 V from that solenoid.
 
When I was at work the diagram did not show up. That's the Overdrive sensor wire? I'm really bad at electrical stuff.
 
06RAMCTD said:
That's what I was thinking orginally. When I was trying to get the lcok up to work last year, I measured 14.5 V from that solenoid.
Click to expand...

Did you measure it with the engine running? I am not sure how it would be at 14.5V when the batteries pull about 12.5-13.3 volts with the engine off, but it will run 14-15V with the engine on. Just curious. :thankyou2:
 
Bump..Has anyone actually done this? Can some provide with detailed instructions?
 
Providing a hot wire to the pin is the only way to do it in my mind. Keep in mind there will probably still be a second delay as there is with the lock up switch so you will have to flip it when still slowly moving on the sled and not right before you stop otherwise there won't be enough time for it to unlock - which is the problem with the stock computer set up currently.

I would wire a 3 switch (on-off-on) and have it to where when you flip it up it grounds it out and locks up, and when flipped down it provides a 12V source to unlock it.

Not sure what other information you are looking for...
Ground= lock up
power= unlock
 
TXAustin said:
Providing a hot wire to the pin is the only way to do it in my mind. Keep in mind there will probably still be a second delay as there is with the lock up switch so you will have to flip it when still slowly moving on the sled and not right before you stop otherwise there won't be enough time for it to unlock - which is the problem with the stock computer set up currently.

I would wire a 3 switch (on-off-on) and have it to where when you flip it up it grounds it out and locks up, and when flipped down it provides a 12V source to unlock it.

Not sure what other information you are looking for...
Ground= lock up
power= unlock
Click to expand...

I'm just concerned about faking out the ECM. If I'm apply voltage when it looking for ground, is the ECM going put the truck in limp mode? Have you done this? I read on Cummins forum something about jumping a relay? If you have done this I'll try it. I just can't believe no one else is running in to this problem
 
TXAustin said:
Providing a hot wire to the pin is the only way to do it in my mind. Keep in mind there will probably still be a second delay as there is with the lock up switch so you will have to flip it when still slowly moving on the sled and not right before you stop otherwise there won't be enough time for it to unlock - which is the problem with the stock computer set up currently.

I would wire a 3 switch (on-off-on) and have it to where when you flip it up it grounds it out and locks up, and when flipped down it provides a 12V source to unlock it.

Not sure what other information you are looking for...
Ground= lock up
power= unlock
Click to expand...

Incorrect. It's supplied power and by grounding it you are completing the circuit to energize the solenoid. If you put a switch inbetween the ecm and the solenoid, when the switch is open the ecm will be unable to complete the circuit thus no lockup.
 
On paper all you have to do is turn the lock up switch off, ungrounding the circuit.

It doesn't work in the real world. I have heard of several guys with this problem. The easy fix is to shift into neutral or turn off the switch when the sled stops you.


I have not tried it but I dont see why you couldn't cut the wire running to the tcm and splice a switch in there, turning the switch off before you pull would not allow the TC to lock up untill you turned the lock up switch on.....But you will still have to go to neutral or turn the switch off at the end of the track...........So all that work just seems to be pointless if the end result is still the same.
 
Oh if you run power to the lock up solenoid you will be dropping the pan to replace the one you just burnt up.
 
If not a burnt up PCM. Supplying power to that side of the sol would short the circuit.

Also I think you missed my point Gary. If you have a lockup switch only, turning off the switch releases the ground you made but still allows the PCM to ground the circuit. If you put in a switch inline with the PCM wire, you can prevent the PCM from providing a ground. No ground= no lockup.
 
TheBigNasty said:
If not a burnt up PCM. Supplying power to that side of the sol would short the circuit.

Also I think you missed my point Gary. If you have a lockup switch only, turning off the switch releases the ground you made but still allows the PCM to ground the circuit. If you put in a switch inline with the PCM wire, you can prevent the PCM from providing a ground. No ground= no lockup.
Click to expand...


RIGHT! That's my problem. The PCM is keeping the converter locked after I unlock it. I would like to wire this into a 3 position switch. So if I cut the T/C lock up wire in two and run it into the cab, I would wire it as below:


Down = PCM controlled (Normal operation) trans side wire to PCM wire

Middle = No T/C lock PCM to OPEN? - Do I need to put something on the other side as to not throw a code.

Up = T/C lock trans side wire to ground

Has anyone tried this? As I said above, the post from Cummins Forum refers to jumpering a relay, so the ECM/PCM does not throw a code.

The logic seems correct, but I'm just looking for someone that has experience with this setup that can explain in detail. Similar to the many Mystery switch threads. As stated above, I don't want to burn anything up!

I talked to my trans builder today, and he suggest a pro-loc from Suncoast, but that's only available up to '03. He also said the 06 ECM's are little harder to fake out.

Thanks for the input guys, I appreciate all the comments.
 
06RAMCTD said:
Down = PCM controlled (Normal operation) trans side wire to PCM wire

Middle = No T/C lock PCM to OPEN? - Do I need to put something on the other side as to not throw a code.

Up = T/C lock trans side wire to ground
Click to expand...

Middle will NOT work without an external source of resistance to keep the ECU happy. That probably would not be a problem if its at the end of a run.

The problem you may have is finding the center position in th eheat of the moment. Hence why I suggested wiring this switch in between your lockup switch and the trans. That way leave the lockup switch on and swipe this one off and it should unlock the TC. Then you can reset in a calmer period.

The big question is whether its an electrical or hydraulic problem that is holding lockup.
 
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