Towing / DD 12v Build, thoughts?

jcarrick

jcarrick

New member
Hey guys,
I have been doing tons of reading and I think I have figured out the best way to go for me. I would like some good input to confirm my plans. I have a 1997 F350 with a 215 12v in it. This truck is used for towing and some DD use. I am looking for reliability and cool towing power. I don't race, sled pull or any of that stuff, just a good ol' work truck. Here's the current plan:
5x.012 injectors
Headstuds
Hx35 or he351/ht3b twins
.024 DV's (?)
Timing at 17*
Benched pump
Possibly a cam?

What do you guys think?


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If you don't plan on racing it or sled pulling save the money and don't bother getting the pump benched and put it towards a cam. Other than that, you're on the right track. If you wanted to spend a little more, there are better twin setups out there but for what you're planning on doing you'll be okay.
What is the trans? You'll either want an upgraded clutch if it's a 5 speed or a good torque converter and valve body minimum of its an auto.
 
Good to know about getting the pump benched. Trans is a 470 zf5. Currently has a south bend, but it's causing issues. I am switching to a dual disk valair. I have had good luck with them and prefer them over south bend. Cam suggestions? Colt stage 3?


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Another thing to that may complicate things would be living at 4000ft. Not sure how much that would change the setup, but figured I would throw it out there
 
Not unlike my truck, 35's and 3.54. It didn't like towing above 4000ft, especially with a tight converter from a stop. Should be better with a stick, which is one reason I'm swapping mine over. 3.73's will help, but I don't think they'd be necessary. How heavy are you towing typically?

I'd do one modification at a time to see how it changes things for you. Mine doesn't have a cam, headstuds, or delivery valves yet, but with 5x.014, HX35/HT3B, and a factory 180hp pump, 17.5 static, my truck had more than enough power for towing once I got the converter right. I towed a 22ft gooseneck around the southwest with that setup and it worked well. 5x.012 would probably help with EGT's at higher altitudes, I was on the fence with those or .014's, but went .014 because I knew I'd be moving back east eventually. For towing you shouldn't need delivery valves, a benched pump, or a cam. I'd like to say a cam would help, but until I put mine in I can't confirm anything first hand.
 
Thank you for the input. I've towed at over 6k feet, I just have to keep the rpm's up and EGT's in check. I tow a 21 foot wakeboat multiple times a week in the summer and would like to add a camper to that. I also end up towing some full sized pickups on a flatbed some times. The most I've weighed in at was around 27k.

How much boost are you running? Are you not worried about blowing the head gasket? It would be nice to save money and not get head studs if they aren't needed.


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I've hit 78-80psi in the past on factory head bolts. I was worried the first few times I ran it that high, but not since then. I'm sure the 275k head gasket will pop eventually, but I'm to the point that if it blows, it blows. The BD intercooler lowered boost levels a little, doesn't seem to get as high, then again I haven't run it hard since I've been back east.

Yes, the times I've towed at 9,000ft, EGT's were the only thing slowing me down, but I sure wasn't grossing 27k. That is plenty of weight, better make sure your driveline and brakes are up to the challenge. I just don't think any extra fuel will be necessary if you're towing that much, other than some injectors. Like I said, do one thing at a time, try to write down the results and then make adjustments from there.
 
Wow, that is really good to hear. I just realized I've read your thread about the old school twins several times, very good info there. What size exhaust housing do you recommend on the ht3b?

Ya, all that stuff is getting dealt with as well. That much weight rarely rarely happens though.


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No bigger than 26/27cm I would say. I can't say I know enough to recommend much on turbos, but the 26cm on mine seems to work well. I've heard others say 23cm works well with a 12cm HX35 and might be the ticket with your gears/tires at higher altitude.
 
23cm is also what I've heard will work well. Time to start shopping for a good used ht3b :)


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because of the elevation, quality after market intercooler, large 3 core aluminum rad, smaller tires than 35's, small towing twins
 
Charger,
Sorry to say, but the tires aren't going smaller. They look too good on this truck and it tows alright with them. I am going to go to 3.73's though. I think I'll do the radiator first and then save for a better intercooler
 
I'd go a little bigger on injector, and a little more timing. Maybe 5x14's and 20 deg. I'd also make sure you surface the head, it's cheap insurance. I'd do 4K springs and valvesprings too, just in case you want to wind it out a little more before you shift.
 
Can I ask why the bigger injector and more timing? The head was resurfaced about 35k miles ago with a factory cummins gasket and all bolts and bolt holes were chased to make sure the threads were clean. Good point on the gov springs. I've been meaning to put a set in since I installed it and just haven't gotten around to it
 
You should be fine with a set of quality 5x12's, they will provide plenty of fuel. If a proffessional driver with 40 years at the wheel of emergency vehicles and semis were to choose to contribute to your thread he would understand that you and others reading it would be at various stages in their towing learning curve. He would probably advise you not to run a lifted truck, with big D rated tires, not to run fronts below 50%. Advise to make it a dually for better braking, traction, weight capacity and wider more stable stance. If you must stay single wheel go 19.5's for weight capacity. If you look closely at commercial trucks they are over speced towards safety in every important area from ride height, tires, frame, brakes, rearends and so on. They are not underspeced lifted, and running on oversized under rated tires, with little brakes. The pro driver would know that adding a loaded trailer magnifies problems that can cause accidents. It puts yourself and other motorists at risk, both health and liability wise. If a grouchy dickheaded old dot guy were to drag your truck and trailer over the scales post accident from a front tire blow out and find you had under rated tires, brakes, weight capacity you may find yourself liable for huge medical bills and your insurance voided.This pro truck driver would naturally understand if an OP were to laugh off his advise, and say he prefers LOOKS and STYLE over safety. He would still contribute to the thread as he knows the OP isn't the only one reading, learning, and looking for intelligent sound advice to make their trip pulling a loaded trailer up a mountain pass a safe one. Happy Motoring
 
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I appreciate the input. Im sorry, I don't haul crazy big stuff but once in a blue moon. Not looking to be a trucker and weigh in at 85k lbs. Basically I just want good power for towing a boat with a camper or pulling a goose neck flatbed with a pickup on it...
 
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