Transmission removal rear main seal

johnfak said:
Did one a long time back .... be in driveway again. Looking for any tips on rear main as well as best trans jack.

Was thinking of using

http://m.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-capacity-atvmotorcycle-lift-61632.html

But not sure if any jack will balance trans as well as transfer case together.

So.... tips on either from experience ?


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Separate the trans from the transfer case. You want an actual transmission jack. You really want to be able to change the angle of the trans as you stab it back to the engine.
I suppose if you shim the transmission and tie it tight enough, you might be able to hold it at the same angle to just slide it back into place.

I have tried to leave the transfercase on, and it removes fine, just challenging to get it back in there. If you had a second set of hands it helps.
 
Definitely easier with the case off. I just did one with it on. Used the tranny Jack, and a ratchet strap to support the transfer case. What a pain. I bought a Trans Jack from northern. It's been a good one
 
Yeah actually I remember the time me and a mate did it we had to separate transfer case going back in to make it easier to align ....
Didn't have much luck with the HF transmission jack though ....


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This is what I have
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/1000-LB-Transmission-Jack
HT0402-2.jpg
 
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Thx guys
Anyone have any tips on the rear seal ...... does the adapter bellhousing plate actually have to be removed or not .......
Don't want to get it in and all back together to find it leaking same/worse. All I've read is two tap screws to pull it ..... and go on dry.
 
I have the adjustable HF trans jack. I am sure it is great for a light transmission but on a 47rh 2wd trans it was terrible. the trans moves around too easily and it can only tilt front to back with the jack facing one direction. I added a ratchet strap to secure the trans which helped but wasnt great. In the end I had to get it close and man handle from there. Nothing I despise more than pulling or installing a trans on the ground.


x2 on removing the t case. It takes 5 minutes and saves you a lot of headache.
 
When going back in, lift the front of the engine a little so it pivots at the motor mounts to drop the rear of the engine. This really helps to clear the transmission tunnel with the top of the transmission.

Rear main seal: Drill 3 or 4 mall holes around the metal for screws. Grab the screw head with pliers or vice-grips and tap lightly with a hammer (difficult angle to get behind the pliers) or with a heavy pry bar, leverage against the pliers with a tapping motion to work the seal out. Do one screw a little, then move onto the next and keep going around the seal. When using the pry bar, make sure you're pry/tapping against the block and not the seal.

Seal is supposed to go back in dry. I can't help but put oil on it.
 
zfaylor said:
I have the adjustable HF trans jack. I am sure it is great for a light transmission but on a 47rh 2wd trans it was terrible. the trans moves around too easily and it can only tilt front to back with the jack facing one direction. I added a ratchet strap to secure the trans which helped but wasnt great. In the end I had to get it close and man handle from there. Nothing I despise more than pulling or installing a trans on the ground.


x2 on removing the t case. It takes 5 minutes and saves you a lot of headache.
Click to expand...

Yup tried the same trans jack - wasn't a fan ...... might try something else like listed above

Ol Blue said:
When going back in, lift the front of the engine a little so it pivots at the motor mounts to drop the rear of the engine. This really helps to clear the transmission tunnel with the top of the transmission.

Rear main seal: Drill 3 or 4 mall holes around the metal for screws. Grab the screw head with pliers or vice-grips and tap lightly with a hammer (difficult angle to get behind the pliers) or with a heavy pry bar, leverage against the pliers with a tapping motion to work the seal out. Do one screw a little, then move onto the next and keep going around the seal. When using the pry bar, make sure you're pry/tapping against the block and not the seal.

Seal is supposed to go back in dry. I can't help but put oil on it.
Click to expand...

Wasnt expecting to have to lift engine ....... not quite following ... once transmission is out ..... the seal is right behind the flexplate and cover correct ? So just pull flexplate and cover and have at it ? ...... bolt all back together .....

Or do you mean to help realign trans going back ?
 
On the ground, I've never used a transmission jack and I couldn't tell you how many of these transmissions I've had out and put back in with a regular jack, Including g56s, nv5600s, nv4500s, and all the automatics.
 
maxwedgehead said:
On the ground, I've never used a transmission jack and I couldn't tell you how many of these transmissions I've had out and put back in with a regular jack, Including g56s, nv5600s, nv4500s, and all the automatics.
Click to expand...

adapter ? how to balance ?
 
johnfak said:
Yup tried the same trans jack - wasn't a fan ...... might try something else like listed above



Wasnt expecting to have to lift engine ....... not quite following ... once transmission is out ..... the seal is right behind the flexplate and cover correct ? So just pull flexplate and cover and have at it ? ...... bolt all back together .....

Or do you mean to help realign trans going back ?
Click to expand...

Not lifting the engine but tilting the back down of the engine down for better transmission alignment. You don't undo anything you wouldn't do to pull the transmission. Don't unbolt the engine from the engine mounts etc.

Use a 2x4 on the oil pan bolt heads. Remove enough of the 2x4 to clear the oil pan lip and sit behind the harmonic balancer. 2x4 looks like an "L" laying on it's back. Then raise the 2x4 with a floor jack or hydraulic jack (stacked on top of several 2x4s to reach) about an inch, maybe a little more. It's just to tilt the back of the engine down a little to align the input shaft into the pilot bushing.

Ummm...I actually read your last post.....Flex plate? You've got an automagic. I don't know anything about installing those. Sorry for the confusion.
 
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Ol Blue said:
Not lifting the engine but tilting the back down of the engine down for better transmission alignment. You don't undo anything you wouldn't do to pull the transmission. Don't unbolt the engine from the engine mounts etc.

Use a 2x4 on the oil pan bolt heads. Remove enough of the 2x4 to clear the oil pan lip and sit behind the harmonic balancer. 2x4 looks like an "L" laying on it's back. Then raise the 2x4 with a floor jack or hydraulic jack (stacked on top of several 2x4s to reach) about an inch, maybe a little more. It's just to tilt the back of the engine down a little.
Click to expand...

Gotchya :D
 
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