Trying to dial in my 99 twin turbo-questions?

skav

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Joined
Oct 16, 2008
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207
I posted in the tech section, then realized it was probably the wrong place, since I got 0 responses. I'm looking for some guidance from more knowledgable members.

I've been working on some changes and would like some input about the current setup.

Here is a list of the mod progression

Before-
Ported O-ringed head w studs
3 piece manifold
II Towing twins
II DF extreme pump
II 6x .024 sticks
EDM delivery tubes
Banks IC
Smarty
Red line box

Extremely smokey and a headache to drive around SoCal. EGTs were off the chart. Pretty much impossible to DD.
Smarty was set on level two to try and control smoke.

Recent-
Ported O-ringed head w studs
3 piece manifold
II Towing twins
II Hot rod 44 pump
II 6x .024 sticks
EDM delivery tubes
Banks IC
Smarty

I decided to pull our 16k toy hauler from SoCal to Utah over summer, so we pulled the DF, and the red line box. We couldn't find the smarty, so left it on level 2. This helped the smoke a lot, but still smokey, and EGTs were really hard to deal w while towing. On grades, I had to pull over several times because The ECT would climb and it would overheat when EGTs were sustained at over 1100 for any length of time. It was a nightmare! DD was still bad in SoCal.

Now-
Ported O-ringed head w studs
3 piece manifold
II Towing twins
II Hot rod 44 pump
II stage 2 sticks
EDM delivery tubes
Banks IC
Smarty
Power Puck

We just swapped the sticks for stage 2 because I wanted to tow the trailer to the desert over new years. We still couldn't find the smarty, so used a power puck because it was a bit lazy off the line. While changing the sticks, we found that the stupid Banks intake elbow (left over from way back) had 2 broken nut flanges which were causing a huge boost leak. After changing to an AFE intake elbow and the new sticks, I was surprised at how clean the truck was, and how the power puck helped off the line while DDing. I know a lot of this was because we also fixed the boost leak. Towing is much better now, but ECT still climbed on a grade. It's hard to compare because it was so much cooler than the summer (60 vs 105). EGTs were very controllable while towing. 20psi is about 900-950 on the flat. On a grade I can hold it under 1200. I can feel that the power isn't there like before, but it's more usable now.

Any other ideas on what else to tweak on the setup?

I finally found the smarty and want to play a bit w the tunes to see if power improves a bit. I'm tempted to try the 120hp sticks. Would these still be OK for towing?

What should I set the WGs at on the hi and low pressure turbos?

What level should I run the smarty at, and is it cool to stack the smarty and pp?

What will help keep ECT down? I don't want to worry about overheating again. Is there a bigger radiator that would work?
 

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Thanks spooler. I searched, but it was in the tech section, so I didn't get good results.


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I just read through the link and now I just have more questions.

Does anyone have experience w II towing twins?


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It looks like a k31 over an S300. I think the 300 has a 60 or 62mm wheel. The k31 should have a 71mm wheel.


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don't you mean s300 over k31

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The primary (big turbo) looks like a k31 and the secondary (small turbo) looks like an s300. It's the industrial injection towing twin kit.

Are you familiar w the kit?


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I posted in the tech section, then realized it was probably the wrong place, since I got 0 responses. I'm looking for some guidance from more knowledgable members.

I've been working on some changes and would like some input about the current setup.

Here is a list of the mod progression

Before-
Ported O-ringed head w studs
3 piece manifold
II Towing twins
II DF extreme pump
II 6x .024 sticks
EDM delivery tubes
Banks IC
Smarty
Red line box

Extremely smokey and a headache to drive around SoCal. EGTs were off the chart. Pretty much impossible to DD.
Smarty was set on level two to try and control smoke.

Recent-
Ported O-ringed head w studs
3 piece manifold
II Towing twins
II Hot rod 44 pump
II 6x .024 sticks
EDM delivery tubes
Banks IC
Smarty

I decided to pull our 16k toy hauler from SoCal to Utah over summer, so we pulled the DF, and the red line box. We couldn't find the smarty, so left it on level 2. This helped the smoke a lot, but still smokey, and EGTs were really hard to deal w while towing. On grades, I had to pull over several times because The ECT would climb and it would overheat when EGTs were sustained at over 1100 for any length of time. It was a nightmare! DD was still bad in SoCal.

Now-
Ported O-ringed head w studs
3 piece manifold
II Towing twins
II Hot rod 44 pump
II stage 2 sticks
EDM delivery tubes
Banks IC
Smarty
Power Puck

We just swapped the sticks for stage 2 because I wanted to tow the trailer to the desert over new years. We still couldn't find the smarty, so used a power puck because it was a bit lazy off the line. While changing the sticks, we found that the stupid Banks intake elbow (left over from way back) had 2 broken nut flanges which were causing a huge boost leak. After changing to an AFE intake elbow and the new sticks, I was surprised at how clean the truck was, and how the power puck helped off the line while DDing. I know a lot of this was because we also fixed the boost leak. Towing is much better now, but ECT still climbed on a grade. It's hard to compare because it was so much cooler than the summer (60 vs 105). EGTs were very controllable while towing. 20psi is about 900-950 on the flat. On a grade I can hold it under 1200. I can feel that the power isn't there like before, but it's more usable now.

Any other ideas on what else to tweak on the setup?

I finally found the smarty and want to play a bit w the tunes to see if power improves a bit. I'm tempted to try the 120hp sticks. Would these still be OK for towing?

What should I set the WGs at on the hi and low pressure turbos?

What level should I run the smarty at, and is it cool to stack the smarty and pp?

What will help keep ECT down? I don't want to worry about overheating again. Is there a bigger radiator that would work?
When you say ect, engine cooling temp? If so clean your radiator really well.

Becareful with PP and smarty together if using timing on the smarty.

You should be able to use atleast 150hp sticks with twins, ideally some 7x.10 or 7x.11s.

The consensus for wastegating the secondary is 20-25 psi. I'm not postive the k31 but id think around 30 psi.
 
Thanks spooler. I searched, but it was in the tech section, so I didn't get good results.


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There is so much information it is awesome. I have spent several days just searching on different things and reading.
 
We need to know when the gate on the small turbo is opening.....
 
how many different threads you gonna start asking the same questions??? i have found three thread so far that are asking pretty much the same thing.
 
how many different threads you gonna start asking the same questions??? i have found three thread so far that are asking pretty much the same thing.

I explained that I posted in the wrong section. Do you have any input?








Thanks for reading.


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i am no expert on the vp set ups but it seems like you have too much fuel. at what point did it run fine and then start going south? did you make a big change and then it went all south or something that just came on slowly?
 
6x24's Those injectors a problem for sure way to large!! What are the stage 2's how big??

Toss the puck pick up an edge drag comp hot.

T3 or T4?

You need to search some other companies out there im not here to bash II but I never understood why a lot of people go there purchasing parts for their vp powered trucks.
 
i am no expert on the vp set ups but it seems like you have too much fuel. at what point did it run fine and then start going south? did you make a big change and then it went all south or something that just came on slowly?

It ran great as a DD until the DFE pump redline and 6x.024 injectors went in. When the pump box and injectors went in, the idea was to use it as a play/drag truck. The plan was to swap the towing twins for racing twins, but now that I'm using it more as a DD/tow truck, I'm trying to control smoke and EGTs.

Before the twins went in, it had a silver bullet 66mm and ran good, but smokey until it lit. It dyno'd 615 w that setup.

Now I think it could use more fuel as we dropped to stage 2 sticks.

Now I'd be happy w 500-550 clean and be able to tow reliably.

In my first post, I said that the WG on the secondary turbo was pinched to hold the gate closed. That was a mistake. I meant to say the primary WG line was pinched. I'd like to set it back up and adjust both gates.



Thanks for the reply.


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6x24's Those injectors a problem for sure way to large!! What are the stage 2's how big??

Toss the puck pick up an edge drag comp hot.

T3 or T4?

You need to search some other companies out there im not here to bash II but I never understood why a lot of people go there purchasing parts for their vp powered trucks.

The stage 2s are 80hp. Can you stack the edge drag comp and the smarty? I'll check the flange, but I think it's a t4.

I took the project over from my pop and he had the II stuff on it.

I deffinately feel like like there are better turbo options.




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Last edited:
Yea you can. With your setup sub level 3 will be good starting point. Download the revo software. Put the edge on 3x3. This setup with hrvp44. Injectors will depend on what pump you plan on using. If it were my truck I know I have a biased op. but I'd sell the DF and the hotrod purchase a monster stage 2 with hurricanes (6x13) stock lines and let it eat!
 
I ran an S300/K31 set up for several years. Going small on the secondary(s300) was a headache with mine. Bumping up to a 62/71/.8 really helped when i was at the 500 hp level. It spooled slightly slower, but ran cooler and made good power with less boost. A set of Mach 4's might be a better match for the power level you are looking for. 6 x .024's are just plain silly. Contact Smokem or SDX on this site and see about a better set of injectors.
 
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