Turn the barrels

JariV

JariV

Business Owner
Joined
Nov 18, 2008
Messages
263
Ok, to start with DON'T turn this thread into a fight!

I looked at another threads dealing with this topic and it seemed so that almost nobody is able to hold their horses.

So, the common opinion is to send the pump to the shop. Fair enough, that is the correct way and best way and there's no arguing about that. Nuff said.

This topic is for people wanting to to tune the pump themselves and gathering experiences about this. It seems that the barrel turning depends more or less heavily on the pump model.

I have a 160 myself and barrels are turned, everything went fine after slight tune and power increase was noticeable. I marked the starting points, turned all of them full clockwize, measured the turn on each and turned them all to be equal degree-wize. Took 6 papercups and 6 extra cut fuel lines, cranked the engine with starter for 2 mins and measured fuel amounts on each cup with a scale. Close to each other so I put everything back together and tuned the idle speed and small adjustment to the governor. All is good.

I had a positive experience doing this.

Now I am only wondering how commercially driven website this place is since all the other threads dealing with this topic are closed. I hope this is a place for free speech and not a place where site sponsors dictate which topics are ok to discuss and which are not. I've seen such a bull**** forum before.

So, let's keep this civil gentlemen please.
 
you said it...

"racking the barrels" on a 160 is going to have less of an effect, and therefore less possible damage then "racking" those of a 180 pump.

no one cares if you blow up your pump, people racking their own barrels probably creates work for most pump shops.
 
JariV said:
Now I am only wondering how commercially driven website this place is since all the other threads dealing with this topic are closed. I hope this is a place for free speech and not a place where site sponsors dictate which topics are ok to discuss and which are not. I've seen such a bull**** forum before.

So, let's keep this civil gentlemen please.
Click to expand...

What are the dates on the threads? Older threads are locked, but can be easily reopened for discussion by PM'ing a moderator. Nobody on this site is trying to hide the info. Some have done it with good results, others have not. Have you eaten your lucky charms today?
 
You said it. Free speech. Anyone can say what they want. I say rack away. It's been done for years.
I would only add that if you can't come up a couple G for worst case scenario, don't.
 
I have had them racked now since last October and haven't had any issues. None.

Snedge, what kind of damages are you talking about? Internal pump damage obviously but what are they exactly?
 
I too thought about doing exactly what you did.

I was going to use graduated cylinders though.
 
JariV said:
I have had them racked now since last October and haven't had any issues. None.

Snedge, what kind of damages are you talking about? Internal pump damage obviously but what are they exactly?
Click to expand...

The clearance between the barrel and plunger is tight. I'm thinking like
.003ish. So... Turning the barrels with any amount of plunger to barrel wear will cause them to bind. This is most common on high mileage pumps, and when it comes down to it, most all P7100's running today are up there in that respect.
 
I'd rather just send it to Seth instead of guessing if everything is good.

Jim
 
There was a recent thread that was made by someone using the guessing experience and iirc that OP found out don't mess with it unless you have the cash to replace it or send it to Seth LOL
 
So if you take the "safe" road and send it to seth and he racks the barrels couldn't he have the same problems like rack sticking? Then the pump still needs rebuilt then also?
 
keifferscummins said:
So if you take the "safe" road and send it to seth and he racks the barrels couldn't he have the same problems like rack sticking? Then the pump still needs rebuilt then also?
Click to expand...

If there is a lot of wear I'd bet he would suggest new parts.
Or... the old B&P, if reusable, would likely be lapped for clearance, and then balanced correctly on a stand.
Bottom line. I'd rather have a plunger sticking on a bench than on an engine.
 
keifferscummins said:
So if you take the "safe" road and send it to seth and he racks the barrels couldn't he have the same problems like rack sticking? Then the pump still needs rebuilt then also?
Click to expand...

Yes, but if the rack sticks on his pump stand it'll be a lot less exciting than if it sticks on the truck.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2
 
I guess that depends on what work the sender of said pump wants done. And anything could happen that's a given when playing with high mileage pumps as stated before. In the end it's better to have it in someone's hands who can rebuild it right then and there than at your house or buddy's garage.
 
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I have a 160 and 215 here and if you do the rack plug mod so the rack isn't hitting anything, it actually rotates the plungers just past the helix. Meaning the spill port never opens so you get the entire stroke of the plunger worth of fueling which means you are at the end of the fueling limit. You're next step is 13mm plungers. Turning the barrels does the same thing, but you lose the fine tuning that the factory did as others have said.

Of course I'm just a peeon so someone correct me if I'm wrong but I have looked at it a million times and yeah..
 
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