Valve Lash Questions

Alexp12valve

Alexp12valve

New member
Okay so i've been reading up on valve lash because my truck has started smoking out the blowby tube and it's not losing oil but i notice a definite power loss. I've read about doing the damper adjusting or buying the barring tool. My question is everyones talking about using the alternator pulley but they say nothing about removing the timing pin. Do you still take the pin out if your going off your pulley? Also which method does everyone find easier? Any answers or info will help thanks everyone!

:charger::thankyou2:
 
The easiest way would be pull the valve covers, start with #1 cyl and figure out which is intake and exhaust (ex valve will line up with ex manifold port). Bump the engine with the starter until the exhaust valve for that cyl just starts to open then adjust that cylinders intake. Then bump over until intake opens all the way then starts to close, then adjust that cylinders exhaust valve. Just remember exhaust opening-intake closing.
 
A quick way to get tdc is watch #3 intake valve open, once the valve is fully open that is tdc#1. From there I usually use the "drop valve method" Google that.



That timing pin can be off quite a bit. It is close enough to set the valves though.. If you mark the balancer at a reference point when number 3 intake is fully open it is also close enough to run the first valve sequence, rotate 360 degrees any way you want back to your mark and run the second sequence.
 
By the time you do all that, a friend bumping the starter or use a remote button and it will be done with less chance of error.
 
The way I mentioned can be done by the alternator. I don't always have a friend to help, would be nice though.
 
jasonc said:
By the time you do all that, a friend bumping the starter or use a remote button and it will be done with less chance of error.
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How is turning the engine over with a ratchet at a greater chance of error than using the starter?
 
Tate said:
How is turning the engine over with a ratchet at a greater chance of error than using the starter?
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It was that adjusting them off tdc or other methods that were,instead of rolling thrue them one cyl at a time. I'm just set in my ways and how I've always done it, not that his way was wrong.
 
I always roll over the motor via the alternator or barring tool and do it one cylinder at a time, less chance for screwing it up. I usually watch for a cylinder to be in valve overlap and then adjust both the intake and exhaust valve on it's companion cylinder. So for example, if #6 is in valve overlap where both intake and exhaust valves are moving, I set the lash on #1's intake and exhaust. If #2 is in valve overlap, I set the lash on #5's intake and exhaust.

This method is idiot proof!!!
 
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So what about timing pin with alternator method? Do is disengage it or leave it be. And overlaps when both rockers at up right on one valve and the other is at tdc? So in that case do lash of the intake on tdc and both on overlap?
 
BigPapa said:
I don't think a valve adjustment is going to help this situation.
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Whats your thought? The truck never had blow by until a few months ago but what could it be? Valve seats? Rings are fried? Truck runs real cold never reaches 1000 on the pyro and coolant temps steady 190
 
I would look for the obvious first....check all my breathers to ensure they are not clogged, fuel filter and possible internals.....just thinking out loud
 
When #6 is in overlap, set #1 in&ex, #2 in, #3 ex, #4 in, #5 ex. Roll it over to #1 overlap and set the rest.

If you can't figure this out, take it to a shop.
 
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