valve springs

6spd

6spd

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May 18, 2011
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I know this has been covered but I am thinking I need some 110# valve springs do I need push rods with them while I am at it or just get valve springs or do I even need valve springs? I plan to pull in a month, sorry for dumb question couldn't find my answer
 
6spd said:
I know this has been covered but I am thinking I need some 110# valve springs do I need push rods with them while I am at it or just get valve springs or do I even need valve springs? I plan to pull in a month, sorry for dumb question couldn't find my answer
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If you're going thru the trouble to change the springs then you may as well put pushrods in it. They're not that expensive, and they'll give you some peace of mind. I have the extreme duty rods from Hamilton.

Sent from my paperweight
 
90lb springs are easier on the cam and will hold up over 900hp. you dont need 110s unless you plan on big power some day.
 
i would recommend Manning Motorsports for some great guy to deal with and some great products
 
What is the trick to install the valve springs with head on? I.E how do you get the rocker assembly off #5 and #6
 
tornado112 said:
What is the trick to install the valve springs with head on? I.E how do you get the rocker assembly off #5 and #6
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Put whatever cylinder you're working on at TDC. That way the valves won't fall thru into the cylinder. Rocker assembly on 5 and 6 comes off the same way as the rest of them.

Sent from my paperweight
 
Thanks for the response dr07. I'm pretty familiar with the 12valve but in medium duty trucks where there is a lot of room... I'm asking about 5 and 6. They are tucked under the cowl. I don't see any way that the head bolts that go through the rocker assembly clear the cowl. IDK They seem long?
 
tornado112 said:
Thanks for the response dr07. I'm pretty familiar with the 12valve but in medium duty trucks where there is a lot of room... I'm asking about 5 and 6. They are tucked under the cowl. I don't see any way that the head bolts that go through the rocker assembly clear the cowl. IDK They seem long?
Click to expand...

There will be a rubber plug or two on the bottom of the cowl. Pull the plug and the bolts can go up.

Sent from my paperweight
 
Not all pushrods are created equal either........some "name brands" are grossly over priced also

Stock:
Tubing size: 3/8" x .060"
Material: 1010

----------------------------

MaxSpool Pushrods:
3/8" x .083" Heat Treated 4340 Chrome moly with 4340 billet cups
Gorilla push rods are 7/16" x .165" wall tappered to 3/8's on either end

I was told some other brands use 4310 with 8620 cups, according to MaxSpool

--------------------------

Manning:
-3/8" x .083"
-4340 with billet ends

--------------------------

1998.5-2012 24 valve Cummins

Hamilton sells two styles of pushrods.......HD and Extreme

Hamilton HD Pushrods:
-3/8" x .095"
-4130 Chromoly w/ hardened 8620 ends

Hamilton Extreme:
Intake: 3/8" x .095"
Exhaust: 7/16" x .120"

------------------------------

Trend definately has choices, but they also can't spell...."Cummings" on their website

Cummins Pushrods | Trend Performance

Stage I
#TPD1160803-3
Black oxide
3/8" x .080" wall

Stage II
#TPD11601353-10C3
Satin finish
3/8" x .135″ wall

Stage III:
#TPD11601657-10C3
Satin finish
7/16" x .165″ wall


------------------------------

Manton's prices are great:

http://www.mantonpushrods.com/Images...rice_4_Web.pdf

Series 3:
-4130/4135 Hard Drawn
- Non-Guide Plate Use

Series 4:
-4130/4135 MeloniteTM Processed
-Guide Plate Use

Series 5:
-4130/4135 Salt Heat Treated to 275,000 p.s.i. Tensil
-Non-Guide Plate Use

------------------------------

Smith Brothers:

Smith Bros. Push Rods Bend Oregon

Made from 4130 chromoly tube.

They have 3/8 tube in .120” and .145” wall thickness

They have 7/16 tube in .095”, .120” and .165” wall tube.

They said the 3/8 diameter is most common on the Cummins engines, but there are a few customers that do order the larger 7/16.

The rep said the bottom near the lifter is usually the area of concern with the 7/16 pushrods as to whether they will clear or not. Here are some prices on sets of 12:

3/8 x .120 --- $178.80

3/8 x .145 --- $205.68

7/16 x .095 --- $180.48

7/16 x .120 --- $214.68

7/16 x .165 --- $268.32
 
BgBlDodge said:
Me thinks D45 is biased.
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Not one bit.......I would say just an educated consumer

I am NOT the one to go out and buy anything, just because its a name brand or just because everyone else is running a certain product made by a popular and highly advertised business.........especially when and if I were spending $250+ on pushrods

I wanted to research and see the specs of the pushrods available, see how they compare, and see how the price differs
 
If that was the case you would think your info would be correct....

Last time I looked Manning had 5 or 6 available sizes.
 
Regardless of who sells them, the 4340 typically has a much better strength to weight ratio than 4130.
 
D45 said:
Not one bit.......I would say just an educated consumer

I am NOT the one to go out and buy anything, just because its a name brand or just because everyone else is running a certain product made by a popular and highly advertised business.........especially when and if I were spending $250+ on pushrods

I wanted to research and see the specs of the pushrods available, see how they compare, and see how the price differs
Click to expand...

I like this guy. He's one of the very few in the diesel community with his own brainwaves.
 
I know two in here both have setups, I'm looking for a 2.5 setup, but want something that I can use from 4-5000 rpm in the future. I fully realize I won't utilize that rpm in 2.5 but I'd like to leave room for growth later and not be required to spend money twice on valve train.
 
I think D45 was trying to help, and did a ok job of this but is behind due to a lack of the correct info
 
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