Want better midbass ? it's as easy as this...

UNBROKEN

UNBROKEN

Ezekiel 25:17
Joined
Apr 21, 2006
Messages
17,158
If you have no dampener at all, consider buying at least a little bit for your doors. 25% coverage is great but I'm old school I guess and still do 100%.
Anyway...when you take your door panel off you'll see all the big access holes in there....those holes are death for midbass. If you take some thin sheetmetal cut and formed to the shape of the hole but just larger than the hole, dampen both sides of it for some mass, add some stick on foam weatherstrip then screw it to the door to cover the holes you'll enjoy drastically improved midbass response from whatever driver you're using, cheap to mega expensive it doesn't matter...ALL will benefit from this. This is a 2 hour job tops, and more than worth the effort. While you're in there consider a baffle for your driver...sealed MDF is my preference but cheap cutting boards from the dollar store and a jig saw will get the job done also for just a few bucks. Decoupling the driver from the door is always a wise move.
Anyway...not truck doors but a good shot of what you're trying to accomplish.

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The goal....a completely sealed door:
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You obviously can't cover the holes for the panel clips...but you'll have some of that foam weatherstrip left over so add that to the door around those holes so it'll make a seal when the panel is on. Use deadener to cover up any small holes left over.

If you really wanna get crazy follow the seealed door with a layer of ensolite closed cell foam (CCF) and then mass loaded vinyl (MLV) over that for the ultimate in sound and vibration dampening.

If you have a couple of hours to kill though...try sealing off the access holes...I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at the results.
 
Nah...just thinking about my new cab and what all needs to be done and thought I'd throw this up for people to consider. It makes a huge difference for such a little amount of work. This will make stock speakers sound like aftermarket.

My single cab will be 100% dampener, CCF and MLV inside plus spray on dampener under the cab and the firewall will be treated too.
 
Dynamat is expensive. Get a big roll of the sticky rubber stuff you put around home windows when you install them. Basically the same stuff but not as thick. Put two layers on and you've got dynamat at probably less than half the cost.
 
GFB said:
Dynamat is expensive. Get a big roll of the sticky rubber stuff you put around home windows when you install them. Basically the same stuff but not as thick. Put two layers on and you've got dynamat at probably less than half the cost.
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And 1/4 the performance....if that. Peel-n-seal is nowhere near the dampening factor of application specific products. There are less costly versions out there for sure but Dynamat is as widely a misused descriptive name as billet grille is.

With the cheap Home Depot junk you're likely to wind up with an asphalt based product, not butyl like you need and the damping factor is based more on the foil thickness than the butyl thickness.

You should read up on the how's and why's before recomending an inferior product that will give less than desirable results. Misinformation helps no one
 
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Good info, my duramax will probably be getting this treatment! What brand spray on dampener do you recommend? Also why are you going to a single cab? You won't be able to fit near all the audio equipment you have now will you?
 
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We did lizard skin and dynamat on the crew cab for the tow rig that we are building. Sealed the doors up behind the door panels, amazing how quiet it is now.
 
Bustedknuckles said:
Also why are you going to a single cab?
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For the fun of it...more power, less weight.....kill myself sooner. LOL



Bustedknuckles said:
You won't be able to fit near all the audio equipment you have now will you?
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Easily. I'm going to 4 way active so my head unit will control everything. I won't have any crossovers in the truck and I'm not running real fill this time. Each speaker will be hooked up to it's own amp channel and those will be on the back wall of the cab. Everything from the seats forward will basically stay the same.
 
UNBROKEN said:
And 1/4 the performance....if that. Peel-n-seal is nowhere near the dampening factor of application specific products. There are less costly versions out there for sure but Dynamat is as widely a misused descriptive name as billet grille is.

With the cheap Home Depot junk you're likely to wind up with an asphalt based product, not butyl like you need and the damping factor is based more on the foil thickness than the butyl thickness.

You should read up on the how's and why's before recomending an inferior product that will give less than desirable results. Misinformation helps no one
Click to expand...

Original dynamat is asphalt based, no? Not foil backed either.
 
Nobody uses it anymore either....for a reason. Do some reading on constrained layer dampeners and you'll understand why.
The product you're talking about is virtually useless in a car audio environment....and has been proven as such many times over.

People still use peel-n-seal but all it's really doing is making them feel better. It's dampening properties are almost nothing.
 
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I only got one door done, it takes forever to get it all cut out right but I can tell a difference in sound on that side. I think doing them all along with the firewall will make a huge difference.
 
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