Welding in a ODL rear

Inbred Inline

Inbred Inline

Bastard child builder
Joined
Dec 22, 2014
Messages
370
Looking for opinions on how to put the big axle in, going limited pro. Are most of you trussing the entire frame forward? Doing any boxing of the frame? and do many of you keep the actual housing bolt in so it can be removed from the truck?
 
Inbred Inline said:
Looking for opinions on how to put the big axle in, going limited pro. Are most of you trussing the entire frame forward? Doing any boxing of the frame? and do many of you keep the actual housing bolt in so it can be removed from the truck?
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On the chevy, I would truss all the way forward. A friend did a bolt in setup for his rear, after a year of never touching it, and me letting him keep my plasma cutter, he welded it in. LOL
 
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I only have mine boxed above the rear stops at the moment


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I am thinking the trussing would be better option, you can use some thin wall stuff and not add much weight.
 
I used 1-1/2x1-1/2 3/16 wall square tube. This was on dodge frame tho. Worked well and not a lot of weight added. Did not box it either. It maybe over kill. I know a lot of Haisley trucks used tubing but not sure on size.
 
On mine I used 2x2 3/16 for the long bar from axle to frame and the bracing up was 1 1/2x1 1/2 3/16 didn't add much weight if anything made the truck lighter
 
I went way overkill because I got the tube cheap as dirt from work. 2x2x1/4 wall. Had some 3/8 plates cut to make the rear bolt in. If i ever want to remove and change to a sqhd or 20-145 I can. Its a very tight fit and uses 8 3/4" bolts per side.

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getblown5.9 said:
I went way overkill because I got the tube cheap as dirt from work. 2x2x1/4 wall. Had some 3/8 plates cut to make the rear bolt in. If i ever want to remove and change to a sqhd or 20-145 I can. Its a very tight fit and uses 8 3/4" bolts per side.

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I like that design, looks good man!


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Thank you. I drew it all up in CAD first. Knowing the center chunk weighs so much I want to be able to pull the rear out if I ever needed to. The 2 vertical bars are canted about 5 degrees to put the pinion angle up. I am still working on the hitch and secondary hitch design. Not sure how I want to tie in with the rear so that strength is not compromised.

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looks good. anxiously waiting for this east coast legend to start throwing dirt again. good luck.
 
How tall do you guys truss your frames? Limited on space underneath going on the trailer.


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Was able to finish up my rear frame fab and design this weekend. Its far from lightweight but keeping cost down i used the 1/4" wall tube on everything because thats what I had. I also wanted strength over worrying about the added weight. Just dropped the rear out last night and once I get my bottle refilled I can go to work finishing the welds and prepping for paint. Im very pleased with how it turned out considering I have never fabbed anything of this magnitude.

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Just a question, b/c I dont know and would like to, but should you box in the frame section where the rear upward-angled bar from the axle meets the frame where the old spring hanger was?
 
TheBac said:
Just a question, b/c I dont know and would like to, but should you box in the frame section where the rear upward-angled bar from the axle meets the frame where the old spring hanger was?
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I dont see why it would be necessary. The only spot I am boxing in is a 12" long section right where the 4x4 hitch crossmember is welded in. I will cut a u-shaped plate to slide up under that big box tube and weld it to the frame and tube.

My frame is so stiff now I can jack the whole rear section up with a jack on one corner. The only "twist" is the front suspension.

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