Welding pistons

SoDak24valve

Never Enough
Joined
Aug 17, 2010
Messages
334
I have searched and have found very little info on this subject. Would like to hear if and the results of people welding up pistons, like the bowls and having them re machined or welding up valve reliefs on used pistons, also what series of filler rod had the best results there are many to choose from.
 
Why? Why not just buy new pistons? I feel like with the time and effort invested in welding up pistons you could just buy a new set....
 
Why? that was in the question for a modified bowl design. Also if a person would be wanting a higher then stock compression ratio would be another reason for that. It wouldn't be to say save money that wasn't the purpose of the question, but lets just say it was to save money and a person did have a tig welder and the correct filler and everything I would be able to weld a set of pistons for probably about $40 in materials and a few hours of time.
 
When you weld you ruin the heat treat of the piston in that area, so do so at your own risk!
 
What he said. ^^^

Hamilton offers (or is going to) blank top pistons so you can turn your own bowls in. Price is affordable.
 
Diamond Ross and Wiseco all make really good advanced design pistons. Plus there about 60 hp in a good ring package. The amount of welding needed to make a good bowl design is excessive. For the Duramax JE makes a really good set as well.
 
I understand the heat treat part also from what I gathered the only time it really causes a issue is when it gets the skirts really hot and takes the heat treat from them it makes them brittle, this is to just see if and how the pistons turned out from being modified by welding on them, I had heard and seen a picture of some 6.7 pistons monster pump mike had welded up and re machined for custom applications. How about valve reliefs on new piston if a person takes their time and does not cerate excessive heat would something like that be possible.
 
Ron Allen had a set of pistons welded and machined to get a custom bowl design, a search for piston weld under his username: RonA should give you a little info at the least.
 
Yes I read that thread but it really didn't have much insight on it, I also read the other thread about welding just the top edge and how that is suppose to make the piston last longer.
 
If your doing it for a test, that's one thing, but if your plan is to weld them for a long duration engine your wasting your time. I've welded plenty just for testing a design change but would never do it for a customer engine.
 
Why? that was in the question for a modified bowl design. Also if a person would be wanting a higher then stock compression ratio would be another reason for that. It wouldn't be to say save money that wasn't the purpose of the question, but lets just say it was to save money and a person did have a tig welder and the correct filler and everything I would be able to weld a set of pistons for probably about $40 in materials and a few hours of time.

To change your bowl, the person modifying the crown must know combustion characteristics thoroughly. I love the idea SoDak, go the path you would like. If I had the welder I would have pistons already done for my drag truck. You don't just effect the dynamic compression but you can mold your charge movement before, during and after the burn cycle therefore influence your engine behavior.

IIRC someone that mentioned The Professor of Prostock W. Johnson said, you can change something in your setup. You just have to figure out if it was anything good or anything bad.

I am always up for promoting something that takes too much thinking to go faster :Cheer:
 
here is a set of 19 to 1 pistons . I layed out this design a few years back, and every time I go wider and shollower the less timing they require

[ame="http://s200.photobucket.com/user/GREG560/media/IMAG1128.jpg.html"]IMAG1128.jpg Photo by GREG560 | Photobucket[/ame]
 
I am thinking your crown design Greg allowed a higher ring package and better control with the rings.
 
I have welded pistons in my truck makin my compression 20:1 goin on 4 seasons roughly 60 hooks
 
I am thinking your crown design Greg allowed a higher ring package and better control with the rings.

On the 2.6 programs I am working on, we are looking to maximize power from limited air. With the new more restrictive rules. IE “no map width grooves outside of the 2.6 bore “this becomes even more critical. I use a smaller low tension tool steel ring package and lateral gas porting. There is about 60 hp from what we have seen on the dyno in getting rid of the keystone ring. Moving the rings up minimize the dead air space as well. This is not a plan for the street, or programs where extreme air limitations are not in effect.

The bowl design is to maximize flame front propagation and combustion efficiently and better exchange air.
I have some newer pistons coming for one of the blower motors programs that I’m currently working on the top of the piston is almost a flat top with a slight concave bowl.
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I have welded pistons in my truck makin my compression 20:1 goin on 4 seasons roughly 60 hooks

what kind of welder are you using. I would almost venture to say the new invertor welder which uses an extreem less amount of head along with pre heating might work.
would you do a piston and Ill get my piston guys to test it.
 
What organization is using that rule wording?

not sure , but my 2.6 guys are all calling and telling me they have seen 250 to 300 hp reductions between the old rules and new ones.

the way they are explaning the rules is that all air must enter in the 2.6 bore and no map width groves outside that bore
 
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