Wendy 6.7

[Gambler]

2nd gen 1/2 ton short wide.
Planning a 6.7 Cummins
Auto...truck will be a DD, but take it to the track, throw on some meats.
Now to the hard part, what's best way to keep power to the ground w/ out a 4 link?
A Chrysler 9.25(how much will these take) or should a Dana 80 replace it?
What would be a good gear ratio to start, 3.31 ?
Efi Live tuning w/ 50% overs and possible 467.7 maybe gt4202 BB
Any advice is helpful...not chasing numbers, but I do realize that a lght truck w/ a solid 500-600 would probably be sufficient.

Thanks,

Jodyop:

 

[Bodacious]

what's best way to keep power to the ground w/ out a 4 link?

...a 3 link. lol and then you have caltracs

A Chrysler 9.25(how much will these take) or should a Dana 80 replace it?

...Dana 60 for sure. 9.25 will last a little while until slicks are added. Look for a 5 lug Dana 60 from a first gen. Spring perches are the same width but the rear is +/- 1.5" narrower per side.

What would be a good gear ratio to start, 3.31

That's a good ratio but I think it is an odd ball to find. 3.54's are everywhere.

I do realize that a lght truck w/ a solid 500-600 would probably be sufficient.

Once you get get going, that won't be enough.:Cheer:

 

[DALTRON]

I've heard that a Chrysler 9.25 can actually handle some power until slicks are added. Once they are on, then things start to break from all that muscle????

For regular street abuse a stock reared setup and traction bars should work for a while.

Has anyone heard of the torque twisting or messing up the 1/2 frame. Bc the front half is boxed in frame and past the cab it's just a c frame, open inside frame wall?

Don't mean to sound dumb, but bodacious, could you explain a 3 link? Guess I haven't looked into that to much or have an understanding of that setup.

 

[Bodacious]

could you explain a 3 link

Another name is ladder bar. A true 3 link has the two ladder bars with a track locator or panhard bar. Some of the mud racing rules don't allow the true 3 link so the racers float the axle housing on the leaf springs.

 

[DALTRON]

Thanks man, makes prefect since now. I've definitely seen that and heard of a panhard bar before too. Just never heard it referenced that way I guess.

I have a 1/2 conversion going on now is the reason for chiming in. I will have it 2/3 on the streets and about 1/3 on the track. Is there any benefit to just tractions bars with leaf springs vs a 3 or 4 link setup? Beside tuning/dialing in the 4 link. Trying to make things simple and on a budge, but also know you have to pay to play. I want it done the right way, and shooting for the first around, lol.

 

[Bodacious]

Is there any benefit to just tractions bars with leaf springs vs a 3 or 4 link setup?

You know I've heard folks argue up and down how much better a 4-link/3-link is and for the most part I would have to agree with them.

Then, we go to a street car shootout and watch a '70 Nova rip off several 5.0? ET's in the 1/8th with stock leaf springs and a set of cheap-o slapper bars.

If it were me with a tight budget, I'd try the slapper bars.

Now traction bars are another story. I've seen several upon several set-ups (especially at the pulls) where folks are just running a single bar underneath the leaf springs. We have this set-up on the daughters truck. It works but not the greatest. The way we had it figured with the 4" lift block, we'd use the main leaf as the top bar and with the traction bars, it would kinda be a 4-link. The bars definitely reduced axle wrap, but, do nothing to help plant the power.

If you have a 2wd setup with no lift blocks, don't waste your time on the traction bars. Go with the slapper bars. You may have to build a set long enough to work with the truck springs, however.

 

[DALTRON]

Very interesting to know about the single traction bars. I knew they reduced axle wrap, but imagined them to help plant the power as well. The pic below is what I was hoping/thinking would work.

I don't mind the slapper bars idea but don't they lower the ride height clearance. Just don't want them gettin smashed on a speed bump or hitting a bump on the highway.

I know Caltrain aren't terrible expensive. But just wanted to think of other options maybe. I have read a lot of people love their caltracs and have had great success outa them once dialed in.

 

[DALTRON]

This is my project truck still with the 5.9 gasser in her. For the streets wanting to run a 305/50/20 tire. Try and drop it a lil in front and rear. But not a huge drop. Maybe a 2/4 or at the most a 3/6.

 

[Bodacious]

Anything that is going to be effective at reducing axle wrap will decrease the ground clearance. You have to get away from the axle center line to reduce the amount of torque the housing exerts on the bar or maybe a better explanation is to provide a lever for the axle wrap force to act upon.

The pic you posted is similar to our bars. The truck in the pic is a 4x4 (note the lift block). I don't think the 2wd has blocks. The lift block moves the leaf spring away from the axle center line creating that torque lever mentioned earlier. Ours is similar only we welded brackets to the housing and they are about 2.5" long; again getting away from the axle centerline. These bars also interfere with the intended design parameters of the leaf spring. On the bright side, we have not rolled the blocks out from under it since we installed the bars!!!

I meant to give my opinion on the frame question earlier. I wouldn't worry about that kind of stuff at all until you can effectively carry the drivers side front tire for 60'. lol, just kidding. I wouldn't worry about the frame, however.

 

[DALTRON]

I meant to state that earlier as well saying that the pic was from a 4wd truck and mine of course is 2wd. My axle is above the leafs w/no blocks, and I am understanding things a lil better now. But yes was thinking a set similar to what I posted would work. Looks like a caltracs setup or spring for a good 3 link setup is probably the best option. I want to still have good driving/riding manners. I've heard it many times and can attest to it on my 06. Reliable, Cheap, and Powerful.....choose any 2 the 3rd isn't included. So I went the option of reliable and powerful. Not trying to cut corners on this project, but trying to know all my options.

I do understand the 3 link and ladder bar setup now. I practiced my words and read up on the topic lol. :lolly:

Good to know about the frame. Definitely don't see myself pulling the tire, but certainly like to ride in one that can.

 

[Tate]

Now traction bars are another story. I've seen several upon several set-ups (especially at the pulls) where folks are just running a single bar underneath the leaf springs. We have this set-up on the daughters truck. It works but not the greatest. The way we had it figured with the 4" lift block, we'd use the main leaf as the top bar and with the traction bars, it would kinda be a 4-link. The bars definitely reduced axle wrap, but, do nothing to help plant the power.

Is it due to too long of traction bars? If you treat it like a 4-link, then a long lower bar is going to kill your anti-squat.



3-links plus a panhard bar are pretty common too. Two bottom links with a single upper for longitudinal movement, panhard or watts link for lateral. Or you can go with a wishbone upper link, which is basically a triangulated 4-link, but with only three. Your run of the mill 4-link would be more appropriately called a 5-link, but most people omit the panhard. The ladder bars would be a two-link in this case, or a radius arm setup.

 

[Gambler]

...Dana 60 for sure. 9.25 will last a little while until slicks are added. Look for a 5 lug Dana 60 from a first gen. Spring perches are the same width but the rear is +/- 1.5" narrower per side.

That's a good ratio but I think it is an odd ball to find. 3.54's are everywhere.


Bodacious

By having that +/- 1.5" you could actually run a widere wheel/tire combo because of more off-set?...:rockwoot:
I didn't realize nor had even heard of a 3-link...thought you were BullS*#ting me, Man!:hehe::hehe::hehe:
Going w/ the taller gear it should also help on wheel spin...like Datron mentioned about CHEAP, I think he meant to say Inexpensive, cause he, by NO means is Cheap....oke:
I like the thoughts w/ the slapper bars, that's what I grew up knowing as traction bars...I believe the end result is just fast enough for NO cage...its EASY to spin tires, making it hook is the hard part, but a little R&D down the road will tell.$.02