snoxracer
New member
Interesting, wonder why all the suspension company's don't make them like this?
lets see pics of traction bars
- Thread starter alldiesels
- Start date
Interesting, wonder why all the suspension company's don't make them like this?
malibu795
2wd numb nut
you are till pushing the bars BH.
and here is my reasoning for it.
the wrap pivot point is roughly the between the center of the spring pack and the mounting surface to the axle..
with yout setup and what looks like 4" blocks the traction bar eye is still below the rotation point. thus you are still compressing the traction bar..
not debating the ground clearance though that is a good idea.
Caseman
cummins fanatic
I bought a set of traction bars from a member on here a while ago. The heim joints on them look small compared to all the others ive seen. Heres a pic of them do you think there big enough for sled pulling? An also im pulling with them for the first time this saturday. I know you lengthen them but how much do you lengthen them?
Bighorny
All throttle
you are till pushing the bars BH.
and here is my reasoning for it.
the wrap pivot point is roughly the between the center of the spring pack and the mounting surface to the axle..
with yout setup and what looks like 4" blocks the traction bar eye is still below the rotation point. thus you are still compressing the traction bar..
not debating the ground clearance though that is a good idea.
2 inch blocks, and the pivot point for the axle end of the t bar is 4 inch above and 3 inches forward of the axle. i dont think it is seeing any compression but hey.......
not enoughsmoke
floatin in tha gulf
mattyboy72
smashy smashy
Here are mine traction block design with a radius bushing on the frame end, work in progress in the pics
have had them done a couple weeks work great
i like the straps lol
dzchey21
Single turbo 6.4
I knew someone was going to say something about them, i didnt have any safety chains or anything, and i didnt like the idea of a pogo stick on the high way so it was the best thing i could come up with at the time LOL
silverram323
New member
I made my own bars, 2x2x3/16 square tubing with the cat 1 3 point hitch bars for heim joints. 94" eye to eye.
View all my pics here-->
http://s286.photobucket.com/albums/ll103/silverram323/traction%20bars/?albumview=slideshow
View all my pics here-->
http://s286.photobucket.com/albums/ll103/silverram323/traction%20bars/?albumview=slideshow
SSpeeDEMONSS
Still Learning
coope3
New member
Yes it is.
dieseltracks
lost
I built these myself. I was weldin them up at 4am in the morning and the wire kept stickin in the lead, so the welds are a little ugly, but I'm pretty happy with how they turned out (considering my fab skills).
Bars are 2 3/8 DOM...don't remember the thickness....but they're beefy.
Rear mounts are just angle iron with holes drilled for the proper "heim" spacing and bolted to the u-bolts.
Front mounts are 1/2 thick flat stock and are bolted to the frame with 2 half inch bolts each.
The ends are 2 tractor links that I bought at Rural King and cut in half. They have 3/4" "heims" on each end.
I had over $70 just in grade8 bolts to mount them up with.
The material was traded out for work at my best friends machine shop.
About $45 for the tractor links.
Not bad if I should say so myself. :rockwoot:
Pulled with them 3 times now with no trouble. Gonna take them back off this winter and grind the welds down a little and reweld them so they look a little better.
Bars are 2 3/8 DOM...don't remember the thickness....but they're beefy.
Rear mounts are just angle iron with holes drilled for the proper "heim" spacing and bolted to the u-bolts.
Front mounts are 1/2 thick flat stock and are bolted to the frame with 2 half inch bolts each.
The ends are 2 tractor links that I bought at Rural King and cut in half. They have 3/4" "heims" on each end.
I had over $70 just in grade8 bolts to mount them up with.
The material was traded out for work at my best friends machine shop.
About $45 for the tractor links.
Not bad if I should say so myself. :rockwoot:
Pulled with them 3 times now with no trouble. Gonna take them back off this winter and grind the welds down a little and reweld them so they look a little better.
Attachments
brushpuller
Thinkin...
you are till pushing the bars BH.
and here is my reasoning for it.
the wrap pivot point is roughly the between the center of the spring pack and the mounting surface to the axle..
with yout setup and what looks like 4" blocks the traction bar eye is still below the rotation point. thus you are still compressing the traction bar..
not debating the ground clearance though that is a good idea.
Ummm no...the center of the axle is the rotation point! If his bars are above center line of the axle, then they are being pulled on...
SSpeeDEMONSS
Still Learning
i dont think so. the pivot point is the spring so when the axle twists it tries to move forward and still pushes the bar. though in his case, it has less effect then if the bar was below the axle.
Garrett
XLR8R
Crew Chief
The axle shafts are the axis of rotation. :Cheer:
Under acceleration, reaction torque places a tensile load on top-mounted bars... they can't be compressed unless the U-bolts allow the axle to slip forward on the leaf packs.
Without traction bars, the axle shafts are still the axis of housing rotation, but the leaf pack deflection which allows the tires to move closer to the fenderwell forms an additional swing arc, roughly centered at the lower surface of the main leaf, midway between the U-bolts (excepting assymetrical leaf pack configurations).
Under acceleration, reaction torque places a tensile load on top-mounted bars... they can't be compressed unless the U-bolts allow the axle to slip forward on the leaf packs.
Without traction bars, the axle shafts are still the axis of housing rotation, but the leaf pack deflection which allows the tires to move closer to the fenderwell forms an additional swing arc, roughly centered at the lower surface of the main leaf, midway between the U-bolts (excepting assymetrical leaf pack configurations).