lets see pics of traction bars

XLR8R said:
The axle shafts are the axis of rotation. :Cheer:

Under acceleration, reaction torque places a tensile load on top-mounted bars... they can't be compressed unless the U-bolts allow the axle to slip forward on the leaf packs.

Without traction bars, the axle shafts are still the axis of housing rotation, but the leaf pack deflection which allows the tires to move closer to the fenderwell forms an additional swing arc, roughly centered at the lower surface of the main leaf, midway between the U-bolts (excepting assymetrical leaf pack configurations).
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Exactly! :Cheer:
 
The theories are all good and well, even mine....BUT, The bars have now seen a ton of action. Never a hop, bump shake, vibration.nothing. The proof is in the pudding, The are doing what they were designed to do while providing ground clearance and cut down on additional weight.

I will put them on my next truck too.
 
Ok, BH, let's see them. Pics don't work. How much power, how big of tires, how much travel, what kind of use?
 
my heavy duty traction bars on my 2wd. i know the pics suck i had to resize them.
 

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Bighorny said:
Top mount gets you excellent ground clearance, having them parrallel to the road means the geometry wont rotate the hub very much during travel and lastly top mount is fighting a pulling force not a pushing force, DOM doesnt stretch so there is absolutely no give. Bottom mount bars flex.

I made mine with .190 wall DOM, 3/4" thick Heims with 3/4" bolt hole.

Lot's of punishment and they are still kickin butt.
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Not very good for weight transfer
 
DavidB said:
Ok, BH, let's see them. Pics don't work. How much power, how big of tires, how much travel, what kind of use?
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I will comment on power after this weekends pull. My truck is within the limits of NADM SS class rules.

I am running 35's on the street and 35's hooking.

On the street I have full factory travel with the smallest of hub rotation full extended or compressed. During a hook, there is zero travel due to the suspension stops that get installed.
 
Reason I ask about travel is I'm running big long soft chevy springs in the back with long shackles and bags as overloads. I use my truck offroad and use a lot of travel and don't want suspension bind with the long single bars.

I will probably end up building 2 A-frame style bars. Better hook I think as they will try to lift the truck on accel which should force the axle down vs. just push fwd on the frame and they can be built so that they won't bind. Upper end mounted with heims and or shackles so it can swing/pivot/twist and not bind but keep the axle from rotating.

I don't really drag or sled pull competitively but I do climb and drag stuff offroad a lot so traction is important.

95Dodge pictures by DavidWhymore - Photobucket
 
Traction bar question

Iv been running just single style traction bars, and of course i bent one a while back so now im gonna go with some A type bars, i was plannin on running the 2nd bar on top of the axle, i have brackets made on the shock mounts on the bottom, but i noticed the other day a big problem with that, i forgot the pass. side shock is towards the front of the truck so it is in the way, whats the purpose in that, could it be moved to the back or whats some of yalls thoughts? just gonna buil a set this time and make them strong enough i never have to worry about this again
 
Thick enough walls on single bars should be fine....

But I believe the shock on the front of the axle is to help with suspension geometry. Like axle wrap under normal driving conditions... All the big 3 trucks have about the same config now days...
 
I've seen 2" x 5/16" wall singles handle some serious stress.
 
James. I used 2" x1/4" square tubing on my truck and a few others. Haven't had a problem yet out of them.
 
Id keep the shock there for axle wrap reasons. Im running 2''x 1/4'' wall square tubing. It has held up for me under some serious bounce issues at the beginning of the year.

Can you put the bracket inbetween the outside u-bolt an the brakes? I know its tight, but thats where I welded it on my 2nd gen.
 
Isn't it difficult to weld in the rod ends on square tubing?
 
I wouldn't worry about the shock, move it to the other side. The traction bars are going to limit the axle wrap not the shocks. This winter I will be making some A style bars with a shackle on the front end to allow the suspension to cycle properly as well as stop axle wrap.
 
Traction bar redesign

I built a set of bars for my truck out of 1-1/2" 1/4" wall DOM. They were a little long at 7', but worked fine on the street. I had my first hook with stop blocks installed the other night, and bent the pi$$ out of them. The question I have is should I just shorten them to increase the angle, and decrease the horizontal load? Should I shorten them and sleeve them with say 2" 1/4" wall DOM to decrease the horizontal load and stiffen them? Should I shorten them and build a set of ladder bars instead? I appreciate your insight and experience!:Cheer:
 
You were 1st in line at springfield weren't you ? I seen them bend. I'd say 60" of 2" x 1/4" wall or 5/16 wall if you can find it.
 
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