Ram50
- Thread starter Bodacious
- Start date
DEZLFREK
my licence plate says it
I read your thread and a few things you can do a bit more searching to find a better combo for 700hp.. I know your pump guy should be able to do everything to get you there, the pump is the most important part of making power. Kevin at northeast charged me around 700 bucks from being a stock 215pump and I made 760hp with a 66/71 over a 480(the turbos you are doing wont work for 700hp and 5000rpm), and a 188/220 cam..
cstalnaker
New member
A 47rh or re is a full size truck transmission. It's heavy, nobody wants to carry all that weight around if they don't have to. Plus, nobody runs a Powerglide, it'd be different and cool.
pwrunt3pte
New member
looking good
Bodacious
Comp Diesel Sponsor
cbtoyz, the truck tranny is a little on the heavy side, but, that's not a major issue. What I'm after with the glide is the first gear ratio. I don't think I could get a tall enough diff gear to do it with a truck tranny. With the glide, I'll be at (1.80x3.0) 5.40. I had even considered a stock 1.76 first gear until I learned they would never hold. Additionally, I'm not running enough wheel brake to hold back that sort of power so I'll need to leave on a trans brake.
DEZLFREK, I wish we had started with 215 pump. I'm gonna get a custom cam with 13mm plungers. I got the price the other day for the work and parts and I'm gonna go ahead with it. This fella has done 3 VE's for me and they were all great. So, now I know I'll have the fuel and RPM's.
If this was your engine and you wanted to get where I need to be HP wise, what would you run for turbos? I was thinking the HT3B wouldn't be enough, but we have it already. Our cam is the 220/240. I was thinking s300/s400 combo??????? Everyone with helpful info please jump in here. We don't know much about turbos.
jamesl. Would you care to find out what bell housing he's running for me? I spoke to JW today and they also told me to run a thick mid plate and it would work. This is terrific news. Looks like it is possible.
slammed1500ssc & others, we sorta went through a big plan change today. The street slicks and rims are no longer for sale. I took delivery of my moser rear and threw the little housing up on the back and started doing some thinking. (finally lol) We are absolutely going to be beating on this thing in the sand and mud as well as street driving. If it were drag only, I might still consider the narrowed rear. However, after considering the lack of stability this thing would have with such a narrow housing (leaf springs would only be 20" apart), we've decided to go with a full width housing and hack on the fender openings just a little. Anyone need a housing and axles? ($800 for both brand new)
So, this will be the permanent drag look. We are hoping now that the 13.50's will bite good enough. We are also going to sling the rear housing underneath the rear springs to gain about 3.5" of lift. I've got it jacked up in the rear in these pictures to emulate the lift. I've got some 4-corner scales coming soon to see how she's going to weigh out.
DEZLFREK, I wish we had started with 215 pump. I'm gonna get a custom cam with 13mm plungers. I got the price the other day for the work and parts and I'm gonna go ahead with it. This fella has done 3 VE's for me and they were all great. So, now I know I'll have the fuel and RPM's.
If this was your engine and you wanted to get where I need to be HP wise, what would you run for turbos? I was thinking the HT3B wouldn't be enough, but we have it already. Our cam is the 220/240. I was thinking s300/s400 combo??????? Everyone with helpful info please jump in here. We don't know much about turbos.
jamesl. Would you care to find out what bell housing he's running for me? I spoke to JW today and they also told me to run a thick mid plate and it would work. This is terrific news. Looks like it is possible.
slammed1500ssc & others, we sorta went through a big plan change today. The street slicks and rims are no longer for sale. I took delivery of my moser rear and threw the little housing up on the back and started doing some thinking. (finally lol) We are absolutely going to be beating on this thing in the sand and mud as well as street driving. If it were drag only, I might still consider the narrowed rear. However, after considering the lack of stability this thing would have with such a narrow housing (leaf springs would only be 20" apart), we've decided to go with a full width housing and hack on the fender openings just a little. Anyone need a housing and axles? ($800 for both brand new)
So, this will be the permanent drag look. We are hoping now that the 13.50's will bite good enough. We are also going to sling the rear housing underneath the rear springs to gain about 3.5" of lift. I've got it jacked up in the rear in these pictures to emulate the lift. I've got some 4-corner scales coming soon to see how she's going to weigh out.
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cbtoyz
Vaginatarian
Weight, serious? Yeah a Cummins is light weight....
Gear ratio, trans break options I can understand.
DEZLFREK
my licence plate says it
if it were me I would run at least s300 66/71/16 gated and a 482.. if weight is a concern then maybe think about a spool valve and new 472 with a light wheel it will spool faster than you think(with that cam and pump), be good to over 800hp and save some complication and weight with a single charger..
the ht3 is only a 74mm, and the hx53 is also way to small to flow anything close to 4k rpm let alone 5k and make anything but shrapnel..
also with that much pump you wont need very big injectors, I did 760 with a 12mm pump and 5x.014 injectors..
the ht3 is only a 74mm, and the hx53 is also way to small to flow anything close to 4k rpm let alone 5k and make anything but shrapnel..
also with that much pump you wont need very big injectors, I did 760 with a 12mm pump and 5x.014 injectors..
95-12valve
What's a CP3?
I'm thinking you need one of those motor home manifolds, looks like a CR one but came on 12 valves in motor homes(others I'm sure too) you could flip it over and the secondary would sit nicely in the engine bay and the primary could sit out over the fender well.
EasternAggie
Back from the dead!
I don't think they flow that well, but it would make placement considerably easier.
inline6power
more hp than you
13mm pump with 5500rpm and a little hy35 and htb3 is going to melt chit down. I am BIG into the sand stuff and have a couple 2k hp rigs I race. A glide and 13 inch converter will work if you can really spin the rpms. Chester mud truck is proof. If your worried about weight why not go clutch? Chain drive is the way to go. Go to Racing in the dirt . com and they have a super nice encloses chain setup. Either that or you will have to go threw power pro racing. I personally would have chose a different gear and suspension setup but regardless your build is pretty cool.
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95-12valve
What's a CP3?
Fitment is what I was going for
Bodacious
Comp Diesel Sponsor
joelc79, not sure if the frame will take it. I will be installing a 10 point minimum cage so this should help triangulate things. We have also decided to ditch the ladder bar idea for now. I watched a serious true 10.5 1970 Nova click off several mid 5 second 1/8 mile passes with stock leaf springs and cal-trac bars. Were gonna make the bars and give it a try. We can always install the ladder bars later if I can't get it to go straight.
DEZLFREK, thanks for the suggestions. A single turbo would be great if I can spool it quickly. Not only do I need the quick spooling for the drags, but, I will be street driving this thing as well. I like the smoke rolling and all, but, I don't want to stop traffic trying to ease away from a stop light. lol I think I'll do a little research on the spool valve. I think they direct the exhaust energy into one side of the turbo don't they? Also, do I need to be worried about drive pressure to the point I should install an external wastegate? What about the over-boost relief valves on the pressure side? Should I look at installing one of them?
95-12valve, I'm glad you brought this manifold up. I just happen to have two of them. One from a ford dump truck and one from a ford buss. The placement you mentioned is what I was thinking as well.
EasternAggie, do you think they would limit flow to the point I wouldn't make my HP goal of 700HP? I could send one off and have it extruded. I thought about building my own and possibly supporting the turbo/turbos from the frame rail. However, being that far back into the cab, anything I could build would probably be orange hot at idle. lol
inline6power, yea I'm quickly learning my chances of going cheap on the turbo set-up are over. I know Scott from Racing in the Dirt. I bought all my wheels off him (and other items) and will probably go with his open chain drive. We want to be able to unbolt the whole works and install a one piece drive shaft when street driving and drag racing. I've seen the chester mud truck vids on youtube. He's running a glide huh? This is good to know. Weight, yea if you're a racer, it is always a concern. Back when I raced NMRO class 3, we were rifle drilling bolts & other crazy crap and spending big bucks on the lightest stuff. This build is more for fun. I don't have to be fast to bracket race and at this point, I'll probably just be making exhibition runs at the local speed pits. That is until someone builds a stout duramax powered s-10 to run with me. lol Also, the Challenge in the hills race we participated in this year was all index racing. I'm hoping the Gravelrama crew will go to this as well so I won't get stuck making exhibition passes there...not sure where they'd put me for the hill climb.
Clutch? I love the idea and have done some research, but, I think I'll be busy enough just trying to stage and spool with the glide. lol. I just read a little deal in Diesel Power about a company offering the Top Alcohol/Funny Car manual tranny's with a tailored diesel clutch set-up. (Starting around $10,000)
I'm in agreement with ya on the suspension set-up. Why make things to easy? lol. I sold my old mud truck to a super good fella who promptly installed a 1400HP BBF, rear coil overs, and a nice red paint job. At the Indy Jamboree in '03, once he stopped flopping and rolling, I think the only thing left that wasn't bent or broken was the two front fiberglass leaf springs.
Knowing I'm gonna make this glide work, what gear would you have chosen?
DEZLFREK, thanks for the suggestions. A single turbo would be great if I can spool it quickly. Not only do I need the quick spooling for the drags, but, I will be street driving this thing as well. I like the smoke rolling and all, but, I don't want to stop traffic trying to ease away from a stop light. lol I think I'll do a little research on the spool valve. I think they direct the exhaust energy into one side of the turbo don't they? Also, do I need to be worried about drive pressure to the point I should install an external wastegate? What about the over-boost relief valves on the pressure side? Should I look at installing one of them?
95-12valve, I'm glad you brought this manifold up. I just happen to have two of them. One from a ford dump truck and one from a ford buss. The placement you mentioned is what I was thinking as well.
EasternAggie, do you think they would limit flow to the point I wouldn't make my HP goal of 700HP? I could send one off and have it extruded. I thought about building my own and possibly supporting the turbo/turbos from the frame rail. However, being that far back into the cab, anything I could build would probably be orange hot at idle. lol
inline6power, yea I'm quickly learning my chances of going cheap on the turbo set-up are over. I know Scott from Racing in the Dirt. I bought all my wheels off him (and other items) and will probably go with his open chain drive. We want to be able to unbolt the whole works and install a one piece drive shaft when street driving and drag racing. I've seen the chester mud truck vids on youtube. He's running a glide huh? This is good to know. Weight, yea if you're a racer, it is always a concern. Back when I raced NMRO class 3, we were rifle drilling bolts & other crazy crap and spending big bucks on the lightest stuff. This build is more for fun. I don't have to be fast to bracket race and at this point, I'll probably just be making exhibition runs at the local speed pits. That is until someone builds a stout duramax powered s-10 to run with me. lol Also, the Challenge in the hills race we participated in this year was all index racing. I'm hoping the Gravelrama crew will go to this as well so I won't get stuck making exhibition passes there...not sure where they'd put me for the hill climb.
Clutch? I love the idea and have done some research, but, I think I'll be busy enough just trying to stage and spool with the glide. lol. I just read a little deal in Diesel Power about a company offering the Top Alcohol/Funny Car manual tranny's with a tailored diesel clutch set-up. (Starting around $10,000)
I'm in agreement with ya on the suspension set-up. Why make things to easy? lol. I sold my old mud truck to a super good fella who promptly installed a 1400HP BBF, rear coil overs, and a nice red paint job. At the Indy Jamboree in '03, once he stopped flopping and rolling, I think the only thing left that wasn't bent or broken was the two front fiberglass leaf springs.
Knowing I'm gonna make this glide work, what gear would you have chosen?
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EasternAggie
Back from the dead!
I think this would be your best bet. They make top-notch manifolds and this is the drop style you would need. Just flip it like 95-12valve said.
Steed Speed - Cummins Common rail manifold
DEZLFREK
my licence plate says it
700hp is going to be easy with your 13mm pump, the cam is going to be good also..
so yes, the spool flange/valve diverts all the exhaust to one side of the turbo until around 20psi then opens for both sides.. I run a 467 in my half ton with one and its easy to drive without smoke. For your goals you can go bigger if you have a looser converter and the powerglide.. like a 476 or 480.. and yes you will need at least on external gate so going with a stead speed manifold will be the only way to keep your boost down. Talk with Taylor and he can set you up with all of this you will want..
Next no you do not want to vent off any boost pressure, this is bad and is just a leak. So it increases you turbo speed and makes more heat. You control boost pressure with the exhaust side which also makes for less back pressure....
so yes, the spool flange/valve diverts all the exhaust to one side of the turbo until around 20psi then opens for both sides.. I run a 467 in my half ton with one and its easy to drive without smoke. For your goals you can go bigger if you have a looser converter and the powerglide.. like a 476 or 480.. and yes you will need at least on external gate so going with a stead speed manifold will be the only way to keep your boost down. Talk with Taylor and he can set you up with all of this you will want..
Next no you do not want to vent off any boost pressure, this is bad and is just a leak. So it increases you turbo speed and makes more heat. You control boost pressure with the exhaust side which also makes for less back pressure....
Lostnwalmart
New member
Twins will be easy and as long as you have a passenger with welding gloves you wont need a support for it!