F250/Cummins Swap

Mounting to the throttle pedal may not have been the best idea. The bracket it funneling power train vibration through the throttle now.

On another note: SOS sample came back clean. Zinc was lower that I had expected.
I'm curious about this sample because I know I diluted it with new oil, and the zinc is half what it was during the last sample. That would also mean iron would have been at 60ppm rather than 30. Tbh, I was expecting wear metals to drop after switching to synthetic. This would indicate that they stayed the same.

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Popping in to update.

100 % Exergy injectors went in on Thanksgiving, and I've driven it each day this week. It's as mean as a billet 63X68 will let it be.

I pulled the 33" wheels and tires to clean them up and clean them. I'm debating on whether to leave the stockers on all winter, but it's honestly a bit hair raising to drive that way.

Added LED DRL headlights after a poor outcome using a cerakote restoration kit on the OEM housings.
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thatguy69 said:
Headlights look good, what'd they run ya?
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Amazon.com: ACANII - For Black 2008 2009 2010 Ford F250 F350 F450 Superduty LED Tube Projector Headlights Driver Passenger Side: Automotive


These arrived as spyder automotive packaging. I encountered an issue last night: I pulled them out to adjust, and the spring clips are shorter than oem, so the legs on the clips want to catch and bend backwards rather than deflecting. I would recommend removing them outright while aligning the beams and then installing them, or subbing the Ford clips onto them.

Products | Spyder Auto
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Swapped in Katana LED lamps. Very pleased so far. The driver side needs to be rotated just a touch, it had a dark spot. I'm curious about moisture intrusion. I'm going to keep an eye on the setup and decide of I need to fab some sort of air dam.
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Last tank on the Ferd. Highest I've pulled is 16.9 but was questionable. It repeatedly comes back to 16mpg even after the 100% overs.

Just got a new EFI tune and Anteater tune in it on Thursday. Drives really well now.
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Picked up this combo sensor from motion raceworks to mount on my trans for lime pressure. I plan to use the other port for manifold drive pressure. Output will be connected to the cts2 monitor.
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My wife bought me an HP tuners dongle for my birthday. We spent the day driving up the mountain where I grew up to see the snow covered trees. Slid off the road. Had to rod on it some to get back out. Good times.
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Got almost everything cleared on the dash. Still have a wrench on in the dot-matrix display, and the charging lamp came back on after about 3 miles, but progress. No MIL!
I think the primary fault is where I caught the forward collision sensor while I was installing the cooling back and damaged it. I thought I had repaired it sufficiently but it looks like the answer is no.

Anyone know if there's dual circuit oil pressure switch available to put in place of the CR's single pole switch? The CM849's voltage scheme doesn't jive with the ford's, so I have an oil light on while I have pressure.
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DCS makes an adapter to put a Ford sensor on your engine...

If you already cut that out of your harness can you just kill the light in HPT? (I'm assuming that you don't need the sensor for a dash gauge.
 
I didn't even look for it in hpt. I will look for the dcs part.

Apparently my air bag light is the wheel bag and not the sensor.

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I'm new so I apologize if this is the wrong thread for this but it looked like the right one. I have a 2002 f250 that I plan on swapping in a 24v 5.9 cummins I have from a different truck at my house just sitting in the garage. I am not interested in performance necessarily as it will be a work truck only but I need to get a transmission for it. I was reading about rebuilt 47RE and 48RE transmissions as options then I came up this article https://5fa06d83b9d6f.site123.me/blog/47re-transmission and it's got me stumped. I didn't know remanufactured transmissions were any different, is that article accurate on rebuilt vs. reman 47re's??
 
25005.9man said:
I'm new so I apologize if this is the wrong thread for this but it looked like the right one. I have a 2002 f250 that I plan on swapping in a 24v 5.9 cummins I have from a different truck at my house just sitting in the garage. I am not interested in performance necessarily as it will be a work truck only but I need to get a transmission for it. I was reading about rebuilt 47RE and 48RE transmissions as options then I came up this article https://5fa06d83b9d6f.site123.me/blog/47re-transmission and it's got me stumped. I didn't know remanufactured transmissions were any different, is that article accurate on rebuilt vs. reman 47re's??
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Hello, and welcome.
That is a fairly accurate thread, although I don't know how frequently they use the new parts they mention being in the reman transmissions mentioned in the article. One would think reman would require the use of new hard parts like sun shell and planetary groups, or meet a threshold of percentile of new parts used.
If you do go the reman route, you will need to be up front with the people you purchase from to be certain they will honor the warranty given your application. The warranty in my opinion is the only real reason to purchase reman.

With that being said, there are more than a few rebuilders around comp that can give you exactly what you are after.
Ultimately the choice comes down to how much abuse your wallet can afford.
$3k and an ATSG manual can get you a damned spiffy trans if you have a core to build.
You can do a simple refresh with some durability upgrades for quite a bit less than that.

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Got tired of seeing the vertical screens in the new rigs.
Auto, storage and GPS are sorted. I have to learn how to get the android user interface to control the GPIO and tie them to the AC controls. Might happen, might not.

Hit me up if anyone has a set of manual heater controls for an 08-10 model superduty.
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