12v build to start soon!

Thank you. I keep going back and forth between doing it or not, and when it comes down to that for me, I lean towards the "do it" side. I feel like I'll regret it if I don't, and it wil give me peace of mind.

So far I'm thinking:

- 286210 Mahle pistons
- arp rod bolts
- bolck stiffener (you are saying the stock main bolts are fine? should I not do them while I'm in there? don't need longer main studs either way?)
- balance the rods and crank
- hone cylinders
- lower gasket kit
- new rod and main bearings

Am I forgetting anything?

Any specific brands/vendors/parts you guys would suggest

Thanks a bunch guys….I really appreciate the extra help being that its close to crunch time and I want to get EVERYTHING right
 
Quickserve refers to it as a Noise Reduction Device in some cases. I struggle to grasp it's block stiffening abilities, when it's bought as a girdle even when "modified" it's kind of like buying "turbo" sneakers.
 
I believe you are correct my boy! Got my bump stops. they're pretty damn nice and easy to use. A quality piece for sure.
image-1.jpg
 
I'm building the bottom end now. Its a done deal.

My next question.

With the plate halfway (650cc's), air dog 165, dual feed, .093 lines, and 5x.020's, will I really be way over the capabilities of my turbo? I spent all the money on fuel (after I got the turbo), and I want to use all of it or at least have the potential to use all of it. My turbo is a 66/83/.9 t4. I want to run in the 2.6 class for pulling. To do that I'll need a clipped wheel, or run in the 2.8 or 3.0 class. Do you think I need to do a 475/83/.9 or 475/87/1.1 to take care of the fuel?

A couple people said, even with the cam, runner intake, and p+p, my turbo can't handle all the fuel (I thought it was capable of like 950 hp or something like that….). They said 500 cc's is plenty. If my pump can flow 700 full forward and I got such big injectors, I want to be able to take advantage of the fuel I have.

Am I gona need a 75 or bigger to use all the fuel that I spent money on? I'd really like to try the 66 out, but if I am DEFINITELY going to have to swap it out, I'll just do it now….

What would you do? Run the 66 batmo OR look for a clipped 475? Thanks for your opinions guys.
 
Looks like a puller now and not a street truck at all. If you get air for all that fuel you will be well north of 700 hp. Kinda straying from you original goal, whatever floats your boat.
 
Is the consensus just keep the 66 and dial back the fuel a bit at the pump then? And yes, haha, it seems as the truck has morphed into more of a puller/ real "hot" street truck
 
I think consensus is you need to pick a class for sled pulling and build around it. You have more then enough fuel for that little 66 you have. Like the guy above said your straying away from a street truck in a hurry. Our original plan was 5x016s and that 66 because you wanted to play on the street and sled pull a few times a year lol
 
more fuel aint always better keep the 66 and dial your fuel in to where it likes it. you would like the 66 alot better if you plan on keeping it street friendly. then later on you got more fuel for a diff charger if thats the route you go. im actually doing a similar build, ive got a 3.0 scheid charger clipped to 2.6 with 1.0ar. its gunna be a hot ocassional street truck/ puller. did you ever decide what pistons your going to run? thats my toughest decisions is what pistons and cam i want.
 
Thanks guys. haha Bri, 5x.016's to 5x.020's…..what was I thinking!? I've gota keep her a little street friendly. Jake: I'm gona run the Mahle 286210 (with my tighter spray pattern, I'll be able to run higher timing with the larger bowled piston) I have a hamilton 188/220 cam on the way (well….backorder to who knows when, but we'll see….) It seemed to be the "most versatile" cam out there. I like your guy's advice: Dial the fuel back for now, then see what happens. I can always move up in classes later ya know. If I need/want a bigger turbo, I'll just run in the 2.8 or 3.0 class. I wana try out my "little" 66 (I know its little, but its bigger than what I've got now haha) for now and see if my setup I've got planned, can mesh together…..
 
Got bored waiting for parts.

So I plasti dipped my rear axel bolt covers (center caps) to be in compliance with my local pulling rules:

Before
IMG_0413.jpg

During
IMG_0410.jpg

After
IMG_0417.jpg

IMG_0416.jpg


ALSO:

Some updates on the head. It's getting done by Joe over at Joker Fab. Heads at the machine shop now. This is the runner intake he built for me:
IMG_0419.jpg
 
286210 is the marine bowl if I remember right? I've debated that an the 181/220 Hamilton as your using or thought bout a bigger cam with fly cuts. Can't really decide.
 
286210 is the marine bowl if I remember right? I've debated that an the 181/220 Hamilton as your using or thought bout a bigger cam with fly cuts. Can't really decide.

You don't have to fly cut with the 188/220 (unless the head or block is already decked) according to Zach.

Here is a dyno comparison on a 12v straight from Hamilton between some of his cams (specifically the 181/210 and 188/220). The 188 shines.

How our cams perform on the dyno.... 7 cams in 26 hours!
 
Non intercooled.
whats the part number for the marine bowl then? which is better?
You don't have to fly cut with the 188/220 (unless the head or block is already decked) according to Zach.

Here is a dyno comparison on a 12v straight from Hamilton between some of his cams (specifically the 181/210 and 188/220). The 188 shines.

How our cams perform on the dyno.... 7 cams in 26 hours!
yea i was aware didnt needs fly cuts with the 181/210 188/220. just dont know if i want to run one of them with out cuts or go bigger and diff pistons. thanks for that link that was pretty informative how they stack up against each other.
 
[ame="http://s358.photobucket.com/albums/oo25/westonmerril/Piston%20Info/"]Piston Info pictures by westonmerril - Photobucket[/ame]
 
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