12v build to start soon!

Weston thanks for that link that has helpful. So in theory a marine bowl would be the best choice due to it's the largest bowl size correct? I've also read you saying that a piston with the top ring land down farther is more desirable? What is the reasons behind this.
 
Got the bottom end parts today (thanks Ryan):

ARP main bolts:
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ARP rod bolts:
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Mahle 286210 pistons, rings, and rod and main bearings:
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I'm getting closer!! Can't wait
 
You guys using any special oil for break in on motors with a new/fresh bottom end? I'm planning on just running Shell Rotella T with Zach's zinc additive, and changing it after 1-2000 miles after the fresh motor build. Any tips during break in for these B series motors? Tricks? Products used that were successful? Is my plan ok? Thanks guys
 
ive got a question. ive been reading alot on pistons and looking at the specs on them and they say the non ic and marine pistons use 40x75.8mm wrist pin. and stock 2nd gen us a 40x82.8mm wrist pin. sooo if i went to a non ic or a marine wouldnt you have to change rods as well to acommadate the smaller wrist pin?
 
Jamie at CPP hooked me up with these. Quality pieces for sure. Joe is almost done with the head. Cam is on the way. DLK in Russleton PA is gona do my block, pistons, rods, and crank btw. (Thanks Brian, for the help) Im pumped, things are gona start to fall together….
 
yes sir. Balancing the entire rotating assembly. I went with the hamilton 188/220 cam and Zach's 165# springs as well. The cam actually had the best results in his tests, imo. Perfect power delivery and duration.
 
Thanks a lot Bri. I really appreciate that. Jake, I'm using Hamilton extreme duty pushrods and Hamilton 165# springs/retainers/locks
 
All packed up and ready to go to the shop:
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The Shop. Frantz Diesel. Charlie will be doing the work. Real good guy.:
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I/C to Runner pipe:
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I can't wait to get 'er torwn apart and down to DLK machining. At least the ball is rolling now.
 
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